Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

@iptman If you look at my pic you will see were the bessel is a 16th (or so) away from the bib. That’s the spacers. The PO did not have the spacers and you can see where it rubbed and it is rusting. Or I would call Patina.
15E19497-97F2-4752-A12E-09E47335A498.webp

Because everyone know how much of a purist I am!
 
I’ve been quietly building a workshop in my backyard. I want to thank @Tikicruiser for suggesting that I get permits for the job. (Drawing the plans and going through that process was the toughest part for me.) I have some construction experience so I decided to build it myself. At first, I was going to build a quick versatube shelter but decided to change the plans after I poured the footings and slab. The slab is 6”+ @5000psi with fiber mesh and #4 rebar grid 12” OC. The walls are 2x6, header and ridge beam 16” double LVL, 2x8 rafters and 5/8” plywood sheathing for walls and roof. It’s probably a bit overkill but that’s what I went with. Hopefully it will last for a long time. Still need to do siding, trim work, electrical and waiting on a roll up door. It’s built smaller than a normal garage so short to mid wheelbase vehicles fit well. I’ve always worked on my trucks outside in the elements so this will be a good upgrade even if half the vehicle is sticking out.

491F07AB-C9AC-4D26-AC00-4A4FCC392011.jpeg


2E5E3A8D-1B2C-46F3-87B9-98F6174A4A81.jpeg


F1A25B73-23AB-4B58-8E3D-7E7C7385CDB8.jpeg
 
Well done Austin! That's fantastic. What's the deal with that lift? No cross over plate on the bottom? Or just not fully installed yet?
 
iptman said:
Well done Austin! That's fantastic. What's the deal with that lift? No cross over plate on the bottom? Or just not fully installed yet?
Click to expand...
Thanks Patrick! I found the lift off of Craigslist. It’s a Dannmar Maxjax that was never installed due to the po’s concrete being too thin and he didn’t want to go through the hassle of making it work so it sat in his garage for a few years. The guy wanted it gone and even delivered it. I was looking to get this model because this one bolts to the ground and can be unbolted to store away (in theory). It lifts to about 4’. I drilled my pilot holes and the slab is definitely thick enough, still need to drill/install the anchor sleeves. No crossover plate.
 
Last edited:
dbug said:
I’ve been quietly building a workshop in my backyard. I want to thank @Tikicruiser for suggesting that I get permits for the job. (Drawing the plans and going through that process was the toughest part for me.) I have some construction experience so I decided to build it myself. At first, I was going to build a quick versatube shelter but decided to change the plans after I poured the footings and slab. The slab is 6”+ @5000psi with fiber mesh and #4 rebar grid 12” OC. The walls are 2x6, header and ridge beam 16” double LVL, 2x8 rafters and 5/8” plywood sheathing for walls and roof. It’s probably a bit overkill but that’s what I went with. Hopefully it will last for a long time. Still need to do siding, trim work, electrical and waiting on a roll up door. It’s built smaller than a normal garage so short to mid wheelbase vehicles fit well. I’ve always worked on my trucks outside in the elements so this will be a good upgrade even if half the vehicle is sticking out.

View attachment 2749086

View attachment 2749087

View attachment 2749088
Click to expand...
Looks like a perfect little shop for a one man deal!!
Love the short lift to. Just high enough to get what you need done and not so high as to need tons of clearance on the top!
There also seems to be a good amount of room along the back corners and wall for tool benches and some storage as well BUT I would suggest adding in some 2x4s inbeween all along the studs in the middle of where you have yours already so you can use them as supports to attach shelving too for extra storage.

Oh and one more thought.... create a hole in a wall and hard mount a window AC unit... it will make woking in there when its killer hot out SOOOO much nicer and it won't break the bank on a full AC System!!
 
iptman said:
Or look in to a mini split like @matzell has in his shop. I hear they're very energy efficient to boot.
Click to expand...
Mini splits are a great option. I would also suggest insulation in the walls and ceiling. Add 5/8 drywall and it will be very comfortable in there. Do it before you move stuff in. Also acid wash and etch the floor and put a coating down. I have used the Behr stuff from Home Depot with sand added in for grip. It holds up great to all fluids including brake fluid. Do this after drywall and you will thank yourself later. Once oil soaks in your done.
 
I used some fuel hose and cut it down to half an inch and it worked perfect. Took the kids on a ride just now. Man... These headlights are a huge improvement. I had a front cam cover leak that I was able to fish a rachet down and tightened the bolt and that went away so that's a bonus.
PXL_20210805_145708753.webp
 
Hello guys, I need the plastic linkage bushing between the wipers motor and the wipers connecting linkage. You will see it if you remove the motor. If you try to remove one from an older vehicle be gentle as it may brake like mine did when I installed the new motor. Let me know if you have one. Thanks a bunch
 
I decided to be different and not look like every other non-TRD Pro 4Runner out there and put on TRD wheels. By the way the original aluminum alloy rims are for sale. I will post them soon on the for sale thread. It went from this:

1629745135161.png

To this:
1629745182163.png


I have to say, I think it is pretty cinnamon toastier now.
 
Last edited:
So I have been working at little bit on one of my other hobby trucks. Its been sitting over 10 years in my shop on jack stands. Had to clean the fuel out and put new injectors in. 10+ year in storage start up.


237907973_948250405755281_1137170185079321040_n.webp
 
The rear hatch on Jack's 2002 Sequoia had a lock that doesn't work quite right. It takes an immense amount of pressure to pull the lever in the rear, sometimes two hands. The get the interior panel off of the hatch, I'm assuming you just need to run a screwdriver around the edge an pop the clips?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom