Pre-03 nav delete how-to (4 Viewers)

[RootX]

@RootX for those us nervously sitting and watching, and have been following this thread for a while, any parting feedback/tips to get us off the sidelines and into the game. I'm this close to tearing open the dash and getting started....

The nav-delete was easy and I am sooo glad I did it. Follow the spreadsheet and label all the connectors (original and replacement) with their letter designations prior to making any cuts. Make check marks on your printed spreadsheet as you go. There are a couple of good videos previously in the thread. Use the recommended solder tubing connections. Make sure you have enough red ones. I had to buy two kits. I used a heat gun with a reflector head attachment. The hard part of the nav-delete for me was sourcing the replacement heater controls. I wanted the LC knob style but couldn't find one where I could also have the pigtails. The pigtails are very important. I ended up getting an LX470 digital version with pigtails and I am happy enough with it. I needed new right/left mounting brackets, double DIN trim bezel, antenna Y connector, and antenna connection adaptor. Sorry, I don't have the details of those in from of me.

Here is the hard part, and it almost broke me. This second part, after the nav-delete, of installing the new head unit definitely takes a step up in skill. My plan was to install a standard aftermarket double DIN head unit and continue using my Mark Levinson amp and speakers. I used the Metra 8113 harness. But it didn't work. No sound. Then I tried a TYTO-01 and it didn't work either. After lots of research, and I hope someone will tell me if I am wrong and they were successful, but I don't think this is possible. I think the ML amp is only compatible with a stock radio. The ML amp doesn't have a standard "remote" or "trigger" input.

Eventually, I removed the amp and ran new speaker wires down to the amp location, and spliced to the wires that run to the speakers. I continued using the 8113 harness for basic power and ground. In this scenario, I ended up with four working door speakers only, no tweeters, center, or sub. But, oh well, good enough for what I want. With all that said, after the nav-delete is done, any reputable car stereo shop should be able to install a new system for you. They normally will not touch the nav-delete portion though.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have more questions.

 

[RootX]

@RootX for those us nervously sitting and watching, and have been following this thread for a while, any parting feedback/tips to get us off the sidelines and into the game. I'm this close to tearing open the dash and getting started....

One last pointer...after everything was working but before buttoning it all up, I cut off the old unused connectors. Whatever you do, don't cut all the wires at once in one big bundle. Rookie mistake, I know. There are still some hot wires in there, and you will blow fuses, maybe multiple. Nothing like having that good feeling of being done, and then quickly thinking you fried the whole thing. Haha.

 

[RH51912]

Wow, simply amazing. Thank you so much for this thorough and thoughtful write up. Just the push I needed. I'm going to start sourcing the parts this week.

Your set up looks so awesome, and if anyone can chime in re: the ML amp, I'd love to hear your input. I may have a local shop do the head unit install all things being equal.

Thank you again!!

 

[fblainen11]

Wow, simply amazing. Thank you so much for this thorough and thoughtful write up. Just the push I needed. I'm going to start sourcing the parts this week.

Your set up looks so awesome, and if anyone can chime in re: the ML amp, I'd love to hear your input. I may have a local shop do the head unit install all things being equal.

Thank you again!!

If you can complete the delete you should be able to do the install.

 

[merbesfield]

I just bought a beautiful low mileage 02 LC for my daughter for her first car. Perfect vehicle except for stereo. I want her to have Apple Car play. Before I attempt this myself, is there anyone near Atlanta GA that would want to do this as a service or even assist. I am very limited w my wiring experience. I have read that it’s easy, but... I’m good w a welder, but wiring diagrams confuse me.

 

[prwillard2]

I just bought a beautiful low mileage 02 LC for my daughter for her first car. Perfect vehicle except for stereo. I want her to have Apple Car play. Before I attempt this myself, is there anyone near Atlanta GA that would want to do this as a service or even assist. I am very limited w my wiring experience. I have read that it’s easy, but... I’m good w a welder, but wiring diagrams confuse me.

I made a video on YouTube, it seems daunting but it's not that hard. I changed the controls to manual by doing the wire splicing, then had a professional upgrade my amp and speakers while wiring in my backup camera.

 

[RootX]

Hi again everyone. Since doing the nav delete on my 02 LX470, I have noticed two issues. 1-cruise control no longer works. When I turn it on, the word “CRUISE” appears in the instrument cluster but when I push the Set button, nothing happens. And 2- when I have the headlights on, they are constantly bright. The blue brights indicators stays on all the time no matter the position of the control stick and the headlights are actually in bright mode.

I haven’t dug into it too much yet. Just wondering if there is a smoking gun anyone can think of.
Thanks
Matt

 

[RootX]

Hi again everyone. Since doing the nav delete on my 02 LX470, I have noticed two issues. 1-cruise control no longer works. When I turn it on, the word “CRUISE” appears in the instrument cluster but when I push the Set button, nothing happens. And 2- when I have the headlights on, they are constantly bright. The blue brights indicators stays on all the time no matter the position of the control stick and the headlights are actually in bright mode.

Nevermind. I found another fuse blown I think due to my bonehead move of cutting off one of the unused connectors. The fuse was the ECU-B down at the driver's kick panel. Now my brights and cruise work fine. Sorry to clog the thread.

 

[Tidalk]

Awesome thread guys, truly appreciated.

about to embark on this electrical journey, but stopped to ensure match for match of controls.

If my current controls have a “rear fan” button, and the donor control has a “rear hi/lo” button, would that result in issues?

 

[TXSunDevil]

Yes, try to match, that is one thing that has plagued users here on the install

 

[Tidalk]

Yes, try to match, that is one thing that has plagued users here on the install

As I sit in my garage looking at all my tools and about to cut the first wire... I remember somewhere on this thread of someone having AC issues and you mention that detail.

I guess I can post it on eBay or something lol

thx TX!

 

[TXSunDevil]

Someone in the NE will need the Rear heat. It is probably a workable solution but if you are not real familiar with electrical wiring it is probably too much to try to make work. It would be easier to find a controller that matches what you have

 

[merbesfield]

@TXSunDevil is there a particular year range that I should look for with regards to the A/C control panel? Our TLC is an 02.

 

[TXSunDevil]

@TXSunDevil is there a particular year range that I should look for with regards to the A/C control panel? Our TLC is an 02.

No, just get one that matches the buttons you currently have on your bezel

 

[kgrove]

I made a video on YouTube, it seems daunting but it's not that hard. I changed the controls to manual by doing the wire splicing, then had a professional upgrade my amp and speakers while wiring in my backup camera.

Thanks for the video.

IMO interesting and very understandable that you hired a stereo installer for the stereo portion of the upgrade. If I get time I'll do a writeup of the conversion I just completed (2002 LC). If I had to guess, I spent probably 2-3X more time on the stereo stuff than I did the actual nav conversion. The nav conversion part is more intimidating as you're cutting so many wire harnesses and it's somewhat irreversible, but it's also contained to a small area with very specific wiring instructions. For a full stereo upgrade (with amp, speakers, backup camera, etc), you've got to pull off every door panel, several side panels, tailgate panel, find reverse wires, run power from the battery, etc etc. Also keep in mind that all of these cars are ~20 yrs old and the people doing the nav conversion are probably at least the 2nd owner if not the 3rd. I know in my case, once I opened things up for the stereo part, I started finding a lot of non-stock stuff done by prior owners that I didn't know about and had to deal with - speaker upgrades that changed wiring harnesses, brake controller that tapped into various wire bundles, a backup camera system, a hands free calling thing. All of these mods added time to me figuring out how to safely remove them and clean up all the unnecessary wires and taps. Part of this is my OCD - I'm sure I could have just taped some of them off, but as long as I'm in there I want to clean everything up so if I have to open it up again it's not such a rats nest.

For those that are not as cost sensitive, outsourcing the stereo upgrade makes good sense. It would probably be difficult to find somebody willing to take the risk of the nav conversion (even though it's not that risky if you just ensure you understand and stick to the wiring diagrams in this thread), but once that's done the stereo upgrade is pretty straight forward although labor intensive. I'm sure it would be expensive, but for some people would be worth the money to regain control of their nights and weekends and get the time to enjoy the truck for the reason they bought it.

 

[merbesfield]

I really want to do this for my daughters 02 TLC but I am reluctant to try this on my own. I am reading and learning. Thanks for all the info everyone is posting.

 

[prwillard2]

Thanks for the video.

IMO interesting and very understandable that you hired a stereo installer for the stereo portion of the upgrade. If I get time I'll do a writeup of the conversion I just completed (2002 LC). If I had to guess, I spent probably 2-3X more time on the stereo stuff than I did the actual nav conversion. The nav conversion part is more intimidating as you're cutting so many wire harnesses and it's somewhat irreversible, but it's also contained to a small area with very specific wiring instructions. For a full stereo upgrade (with amp, speakers, backup camera, etc), you've got to pull off every door panel, several side panels, tailgate panel, find reverse wires, run power from the battery, etc etc. Also keep in mind that all of these cars are ~20 yrs old and the people doing the nav conversion are probably at least the 2nd owner if not the 3rd. I know in my case, once I opened things up for the stereo part, I started finding a lot of non-stock stuff done by prior owners that I didn't know about and had to deal with - speaker upgrades that changed wiring harnesses, brake controller that tapped into various wire bundles, a backup camera system, a hands free calling thing. All of these mods added time to me figuring out how to safely remove them and clean up all the unnecessary wires and taps. Part of this is my OCD - I'm sure I could have just taped some of them off, but as long as I'm in there I want to clean everything up so if I have to open it up again it's not such a rats nest.

For those that are not as cost sensitive, outsourcing the stereo upgrade makes good sense. It would probably be difficult to find somebody willing to take the risk of the nav conversion (even though it's not that risky if you just ensure you understand and stick to the wiring diagrams in this thread), but once that's done the stereo upgrade is pretty straight forward although labor intensive. I'm sure it would be expensive, but for some people would be worth the money to regain control of their nights and weekends and get the time to enjoy the truck for the reason they bought it.

Glad the video helped! I could never find a full start to end video, hence why I made my own. After completing the conversion,I found an installer who used the components I purchased as well, so that saved me some cash going that way. Very glad I had a professional do my speakers and amp. But I had several shops tell me it was impossible before I changed to manual controls because of the HVAC controls in the screen.

 

[luvmylx470]

First a BIG thank you to all those who have previously shared and then helped again with more details on all threads for without you sharing - I would never have tried. Status - LC three knob (with Rear Heat Hi/Lo) went in to a 2002 LX ----an 02 LX with Nav. and rear AC and Heat controlled by center row ceiling left side mini console - attempted to pair the LC non-nav. : I can hear it now - why? because it is what I had.
1. so far. I can confirm a small, 1in. , wiring harness pigtails work, I did a solder bridge wire on a few wires, i cut /spliced unused same gauge to extend and used two solders.
2. I followed the pin out and thread carefully, with progress - I think my issue is due to the difference in (Rear Heat Hi/Lo vs Rear Fan only switches). Results were mixed - the clutch, ac amplifiers and rear heat on A plug are not wired to anything because ? there is no pair wire on the harness F.
3. The only things not working are: A/C and heat for both front and back. again, all functions work with exception of Regular AC, antenna- not tested - stage two - install HU, local place will do that.
5. Servo's work the fan source and defrost (middle knob all the way right) works solid with A/C blowing nice and cold and button light confirms use. Overall the fan strength seems improved just not cold. Again - defrost blows cold but not in other modes.
6. Can the E plug wiring be used to complete the conversion? or is there a wiring test, option, button swap or tap diagram Helper and some creativity = solution. if not, I accept my mistake $hit.
I do not need heat - plenty of that. I want AC. the truck seems to be wired to work but not the three knob controller, yet. I do not know what to do next other then to cut it, sell it, beg for another one on ebay all for just one switch being different. - ouch. say it isn't so!
The live with plan is keep the defrost on to stay cool and not adjust the LC center knob for different vents - lame.

If anyone has a thought I am open to trying options and reporting back for others. thank you

 

[kgrove]

I really want to do this for my daughters 02 TLC but I am reluctant to try this on my own. I am reading and learning. Thanks for all the info everyone is posting.

If you're smart enough to find this forum and can understand what people are posting, you should be able to do this. I've done two nav conversions - a 2002 using this thread and a 2007 using another thread - and I had never soldered a wire in my life prior to that. Get the right tools, take your time planning in advance, practice soldering or solder seals on scrap wires, and you should be good to go. It's much better if you have a spare car so that you won't feel rushed if you need to take a few days off to get a new part or tool or bounce a problem off the forum here.

I can tell you from experience, the hardest part is cutting the first wire out of an existing wire bundle. That's when you'll feel you can't easily go back. I can also tell you from experience that the result of having a modern stereo is FANTASTIC. I'd especially recommend it for any LC or LX that feels like it's got 5+ yrs of life left in it.

 

[TXSunDevil]

First a BIG thank you to all those who have previously shared and then helped again with more details on all threads for without you sharing - I would never have tried. Status - LC three knob (with Rear Heat Hi/Lo) went in to a 2002 LX ----an 02 LX with Nav. and rear AC and Heat controlled by center row ceiling left side mini console - attempted to pair the LC non-nav. : I can hear it now - why? because it is what I had.
1. so far. I can confirm a small, 1in. , wiring harness pigtails work, I did a solder bridge wire on a few wires, i cut /spliced unused same gauge to extend and used two solders.
2. I followed the pin out and thread carefully, with progress - I think my issue is due to the difference in (Rear Heat Hi/Lo vs Rear Fan only switches). Results were mixed - the clutch, ac amplifiers and rear heat on A plug are not wired to anything because ? there is no pair wire on the harness F.
3. The only things not working are: A/C and heat for both front and back. again, all functions work with exception of Regular AC, antenna- not tested - stage two - install HU, local place will do that.
5. Servo's work the fan source and defrost (middle knob all the way right) works solid with A/C blowing nice and cold and button light confirms use. Overall the fan strength seems improved just not cold. Again - defrost blows cold but not in other modes.
6. Can the E plug wiring be used to complete the conversion? or is there a wiring test, option, button swap or tap diagram Helper and some creativity = solution. if not, I accept my mistake $hit.
I do not need heat - plenty of that. I want AC. the truck seems to be wired to work but not the three knob controller, yet. I do not know what to do next other then to cut it, sell it, beg for another one on ebay all for just one switch being different. - ouch. say it isn't so!
The live with plan is keep the defrost on to stay cool and not adjust the LC center knob for different vents - lame.

If anyone has a thought I am open to trying options and reporting back for others. thank you

You are in unchartered waters, it can be done and probably not too difficult but I think it would be best to look for a new bezel. To make your vehicle work with that bezel would probably take $30 worth or new switches and a ton of wiring diagnostics and time. I think it would be much easier to sell the bezel you have, and buy a bezel that matches your original buttons. Your bezel could potentially help someone in the NE looking for a match and the new one will be plug and play. I dont think you will be out a ton more money, plus it is much less headache