Pre-03 nav delete how-to (6 Viewers)

[Beto Cruiser]

Been referring to this thread for a few months, just picked up a 2001 LC with factory nav and want to have this done but all my shops around Richmond,VA seem reluctant to do this. Any chance anyone on here can recommend a shop or anyone close by willing to do it? I’m willing to travel and will obviously pay for it to be worth while, I’m just not confident I can do myself. Much appreciated.

Before this project my experience with wiring was on par with a toddler's, but I was able to do it anyways. It's really not that hard. Just follow the diagram and you're fine. I found the nav delete to be easy, but the speaker change to be hard. Stick to nav delete but keep factory sound and it'll be simple.

 

[stefano59]

Thank you everyone for contributing to this thread. It is an invaluable resource.

I am about to do the instillation myself on my 2001 Landcruiser with Navigation and the JBL audio system. I just want to make sure that I have all the parts/tools necessary for a successful instillation. I want to retain the factory sound system and amp.

Parts that I have currently sourced:
- 3 knob no nav controller from a 2001 TLC

Parts that I need (pending confirmation):
- OEM toyota Brackets for new double din radio (Toyota Part 86212-60071 and 86211-60071)
- Heat gun Wagner HT1000 Heat Tool - Walmart.com
- Wire Stripper/Crimper https://tinyurl.com/y2uzr2s5
- Solderless butt connectors. From what I understand the blue connectors are for multiple connections and the reds are for 1 to 1 wires. https://tinyurl.com/y4h8q8hx
- closed end crimp connectors for loose/unused wires AIRIC Closed End Crimp Connector 100pcs 16-14 AWG Copper Core and Nylon Wire Connectors Crimp Cap Wire Terminals: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
- for my headunit i am going with the Alpine iLX-W650 from Crutchfield https://tinyurl.com/y3qsf43y with the selection of retaining the toyota factory amp.

I have no experience with anything electrical but seeing all the success stories and resources are a beacon of hope. Let me know if I am missing anything! Any tips are appreciated as well

 

[Patassa]

Seriously guys, once you get into it, you’ll realize it’s so easy a caveman could do it. Cut wire, connect wire, rinse and repeat.
The only additional “difficulty “ come in stereo delete and upgrade but even then you’re just looking for wires that give you power when you need it, so a multi meter takes all the guess work out of it. Ex, key off, no voltage, key on, lights on, voltage, BOOM, now I know which wire to splice into for my “dimmer” switch on my new after market head unit. Ex 2, car in park, no voltage, car in reverse 12+ volts, now I know which wire to splice into for my new reverse camera. It’s really logical if you just work from basic principles, don’t over complicate things. It’s just voltage when and where you need it.

 

[RH51912]

I found and bought this Lexus AC digital controller for under $300 on eBay. Others were $500 and $600, so I think I got a pretty good deal. I browsed the parting-out section of this forum but could not find the same AC digital controller.

Next, I need to order a Metra 70-8113 harness, solder seal wire connectors, heat shrink tubing, a double din stereo head unit, and speakers.

I will attempt refoaming the rear sub(s). Some people have said they ran new wires while others have said they reused the factory wire terminals. I plan to test the latter first.

Please give a recommendation on what should I do with the CD changer inside the center console and dvd player under the front passenger seat. Also, what is the amp situation? I read some details about bypassing or replacing an amp--but I'm still confused. Please help MUD!

How did your install go? I would like to use this Nav-Delete replacement as well. Did all of the wiring diagrams work for you?

 

[RootX]

Has anyone tried this "nav delete" method in an effort to make the system compatible with the "Tesla Style" head units that are available? The problem is that the Tesla Style head unit is not compatible with the 02 LX470 that has nav built-in. So, I thought it may be feasible to convert it to a non-nav system (only partial conversion, obviously), and then it would be compatible. Thoughts? Thanks.

 

[Patassa]

Has anyone tried this "nav delete" method in an effort to make the system compatible with the "Tesla Style" head units that are available? The problem is that the Tesla Style head unit is not compatible with the 02 LX470 that has nav built-in. So, I thought it may be feasible to convert it to a non-nav system (only partial conversion, obviously), and then it would be compatible. Thoughts? Thanks.

Personally, I love the circular knobs that I got by doing this mod for my climate control and now I have a double din opening that I can fill with anything, and keep upgrading as the years go on. Kenwood has a 9"or 10" screen model coming out soon that I could stick in there to replace my Pioneer nex unit. But my priorities are audiophile first, so I lean towards head units with sound quality features like active crossovers for 3 way, time alignment, etc.

 

[lesgarten]

Has anyone tried this "nav delete" method in an effort to make the system compatible with the "Tesla Style" head units that are available? The problem is that the Tesla Style head unit is not compatible with the 02 LX470 that has nav built-in. So, I thought it may be feasible to convert it to a non-nav system (only partial conversion, obviously), and then it would be compatible. Thoughts? Thanks.

Yes, just do the non nav conversion first. I personally steer clear of Chinese junk, but that's up to you of course.

 

[RootX]

Rhino Radios has a new version out for the manual control LC pre'03. I had to do the Nav Delete first, and then jack around in the settings to get it to work right, but it's working. I'll post more in my build thread, in like 5 or 6 years lol.

@BillZ260 - When you did the nav-delete, did you just install the pigtails and then connect them to you Tesla system? Or did you procure the replacement controller and not use it? Except maybe for testing? I am just wondering because my main reason for seeking out this thread was to figure out a way to install the Tesla system. After reading all 33 pages of this thread (which was spectacular btw), I might now just do the nav-delete and install a standard double DIN.

 

[Tidalk]

Thank you everyone for contributing to this thread. It is an invaluable resource.

I am about to do the instillation myself on my 2001 Landcruiser with Navigation and the JBL audio system. I just want to make sure that I have all the parts/tools necessary for a successful instillation. I want to retain the factory sound system and amp.

Parts that I have currently sourced:
- 3 knob no nav controller from a 2001 TLC

Parts that I need (pending confirmation):
- OEM toyota Brackets for new double din radio (Toyota Part 86212-60071 and 86211-60071)
- Heat gun Wagner HT1000 Heat Tool - Walmart.com
- Wire Stripper/Crimper https://tinyurl.com/y2uzr2s5
- Solderless butt connectors. From what I understand the blue connectors are for multiple connections and the reds are for 1 to 1 wires. https://tinyurl.com/y4h8q8hx
- closed end crimp connectors for loose/unused wires AIRIC Closed End Crimp Connector 100pcs 16-14 AWG Copper Core and Nylon Wire Connectors Crimp Cap Wire Terminals: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
- for my headunit i am going with the Alpine iLX-W650 from Crutchfield https://tinyurl.com/y3qsf43y with the selection of retaining the toyota factory amp.

I have no experience with anything electrical but seeing all the success stories and resources are a beacon of hope. Let me know if I am missing anything! Any tips are appreciated as well

How did your install go? I just grabbed on 02 and was the first thing I was contemplating doing and found this thread.

 

[RootX]

UPDATE: For anyone searching this thread in the future. If the mirror defrost, rear fan, or rear defrost buttons do not light up, hold them down for 20 seconds each. They’ll come to life.

I did the nav-delete and replaced my 02 LX unit with an LX heater controller unit (meaning I did not install a LC three knob style controller). Everything seems to work at first glance except the windshield defrost button. But I did hold it for about 20 seconds and then it fired up and the button light lit. When I read the quote above originally, I thought this would reset something, and then it would work normally after that. But that is not the case for me. I have to hold for 20 sec for it to come on every time. That's not normal, right? Any ideas? Note that I can click the Mode button and toggle to windshield just fine.

Second question - I will be installing a new head unit soon but haven't bought one yet. Any favorites out there? I am hoping to continue to use my Mark Levinson stock amp and speakers. I am not an audiophile and I would like Carplay to work flawlessly.

Thanks
Matt

 

[Lar Cruiser]

Does anybody have the wiring diagram for all the plugs in the 2002 nav unit? Specifically looking for the audio wiring between the nav unit and stock amp, rather than the climate controls and other buttons inside of the panel. Kind of like the spreadsheet at the beginning of this thread, which is great, but for the other plugs.

Images or a link to the factory wiring diagram would work as well.

Forgive me if I missed in inside this thread or elsewhere on the forum. Thanks in advance.

 

[1gr8FoSemty]

I did the nav-delete and replaced my 02 LX unit with an LX heater controller unit (meaning I did not install a LC three knob style controller). Everything seems to work at first glance except the windshield defrost button. But I did hold it for about 20 seconds and then it fired up and the button light lit. When I read the quote above originally, I thought this would reset something, and then it would work normally after that. But that is not the case for me. I have to hold for 20 sec for it to come on every time. That's not normal, right? Any ideas? Note that I can click the Mode button and toggle to windshield just fine.

Second question - I will be installing a new head unit soon but haven't bought one yet. Any favorites out there? I am hoping to continue to use my Mark Levinson stock amp and speakers. I am not an audiophile and I would like Carplay to work flawlessly.

Thanks
Matt

I went with the Alpine ILX-W650. I am very happy. Android Auto and Carplay work great, however not over Bluetooth...have to be wired. Interface is slick though.

 

[RootX]

Hello Everyone. I have finished the nav-delete on my 02 LX470 with nav and now am trying to install the new head unit (Pioneer AVIC-W8500NEX). My intention is to continue to use the ML amp and stock speakers. I am using the Metra 70-8113 harness. After making all the connections, I get power to the head unit, but no sound from the speakers. I think the amp is getting power fine because it sounds like it spins up when I turn the key to ACC but then stops. I am using the pre-outs on the head unit to connect to the 8113 harness. I feel like the "amp trigger" is my problem. But with that said, from the head unit, I connect the "amp on" wire to the 8113 "amplifier on" wire but at 20pin connection inside the dash, there is no wire in this socket which leads me to believe that my system is different, or the unit doesn't need a trigger, or the harness is built wrong.

As troubleshooting, I can connect the pre-outs from the head unit to a separate external speaker and I get sound.

I have seen this issue mentioned earlier in the thread, but I don't think a resolution was posted.

Any help is appreciated! Thanks. -Matt

 

[ramangain]

You need to use the Metra TYTO kit for use with JBL amps. Search Amazon, costs about $40 IIRC

Amazon link

You can try other alternatives and waste time, but this one works as plug n play

 

[RootX]

You need to use the Metra TYTO kit for use with JBL amps. Search Amazon, costs about $40 IIRC

The TYTO is for a JBL amp as you mention but I have a Mark Levinson amp. Sorry, I should have mentioned that. So, from my understanding, the 8113 should work. But then again, it is not working. LOL. Any other ideas? Thanks. -Matt

 

[ramangain]

I understand your plight. Buy the Metra TYTO adapter. I used it on my 01 ML amp with a Pioneer head unit before I junked the rest of the ML stereo system.

It is the one to use. The 8113 will not work. It doesn't contain any interface to control the volume on the ML amp.

I have been through this myself before.

You can try other alternatives and waste time, but this one works as plug n play

There is another option BTW. You can buy the TYTO adapter, rip open the black box, duplicate it yourself, and achieve the same result.

 

[RootX]

There is another option BTW. You can buy the TYTO adapter, rip open the black box, duplicate it yourself, and achieve the same result.

Thanks. I will give the TYTO a shot. I am not sure what you mean about duplicating myself though. Do you mean buying a TYTO in order to reverse engineer my own harness? I wish I could find pinouts for these (as well as stock 20 pin connector). Thanks.

 

[kgrove]

I need some clarification...

Looking at the wiring diagram, wire A12 is connected to 21G while wire A11 is connected to both 21G and 8E. I'm not visualizing this... doesn't that mean both A11 and A12 are both connected to 21G and 8E? How do you connect A11 and A12 both to 21G but only one of them to 8E? I'm assuming this is just a labeling error in the pin diagram and both A11 and A12 should show both 21G and 8E?

Maybe to clarify other potential confusion, maybe somebody can confirm I'm correctly interpreting the multiple connection scenarios as I know there is one 4-way and one 3-way. The way I'm interpreting the wiring diagram is there is the 4-way connection joins A11-A12-21G-8E (all being grounds) and the 3-way connects B9-D22-11G. I assume that's right.

Sorry if this was already answered, but at 33 pages the thread is getting difficult to find answers.

 

[RootX]

I need some clarification...
...The way I'm interpreting the wiring diagram is there is the 4-way connection joins A11-A12-21G-8E (all being grounds) and the 3-way connects B9-D22-11G. I assume that's right.

I did this conversion a couple of weeks ago and was slightly confused at this point too. I didn't go back and check your wire/pin assignments, but your assumptions are correct. You will end up with one connection with three wires and another with four wires. In theory, all these could be in one bundle. The documented way is probably easier though in reality because a seven wire connection would be difficult to manage. As well I found that during the actual clip/strip/connect process, it seems to work.

 

[RH51912]

@RootX for those us nervously sitting and watching, and have been following this thread for a while, any parting feedback/tips to get us off the sidelines and into the game. I'm this close to tearing open the dash and getting started....