Pre-03 nav delete how-to (4 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I am using the Metra harness for my nav and ML delete. Where do you guys mount the ground for the new radio in the dash ? Or do you tie in to an existing ground? Pic for your viewing pleasure...
It appears that my temperature arrow indicator, as well as the indicator on the fan speed light is out.

View attachment 2337208

View attachment 2337209
I originally had a pretty strong ground loop using the ground on the Metra connector for the head unit. I ran a 12ga wire from the head unit to my amp ground location under the passenger seat (reused the stock one) and ground loop is gone now.
 
I originally had a pretty strong ground loop using the ground on the Metra connector for the head unit. I ran a 12ga wire from the head unit to my amp ground location under the passenger seat (reused the stock one) and ground loop is gone now.
I was concerned about a ground loop. Thanks for your advice.
 
Sorry, I didn't mean to highlight those for everyone, that was just for me to go back and troubleshoot. Turns out my Blue-Yellow wire was going to the wrong Blue-Yellow. I remember having to guess on that wire because I was distracted and might have miss counted when I was counting the pins on the old connector. All fixed now. I updated the link to remove the highlight also.



Getting ready to do this tomorrow and now I am a bit confused. I printed the revised wiring guide and there are 4 highlighted boxes that I think need more wires. A11, A12, B9, and D22. ***But only A11 shows an additional wire going to it. I see you replied about B9 and D22 not needing a 3rd wire but what about A-12? It also shows only 2 wires to be connected. So is A11 the only spot to get multiple wires? Thanks so much for your hard work on this. Can't wait to be rid of the 2002 NAV.


REVISED
OK. I see it differently a bit now. Looks like B9 and D22 both have to get the G11 wire run to them. Am I seeing it correctly that A12 gets G21 ONLY and that A11 Gets BOTH G21 AND E8?

Or is B12 supposed to get E8 as well? I may be trying to make this harder than it is but i just want to make sure I do it right.


THX and any response would be most helpful!!
 
Last edited:
Getting ready to do this tomorrow and now I am a bit confused. I printed the revised wiring guide and there are 4 highlighted boxes that I think need more wires. A11, A12, B9, and D22. ***But only A11 shows an additional wire going to it. I see you replied about B9 and D22 not needing a 3rd wire but what about A-12? It also shows only 2 wires to be connected. So is A11 the only spot to get multiple wires? Thanks so much for your hard work on this. Can't wait to be rid of the 2002 NAV.


REVISED
OK. I see it differently a bit now. Looks like B9 and D22 both have to get the G11 wire run to them. Am I seeing it correctly that A12 gets G21 ONLY and that A11 Gets BOTH G21 AND E8?

Or is B12 supposed to get E8 as well? I may be trying to make this harder than it is but i just want to make sure I do it right.


THX and any response would be most helpful!!
So, I did this a few days ago and I was successful connecting A11 & A12 on one side of butt connector and 21G & 8E on the other making this one 4 wire connection bundle on Plug A.
Then a butt connector on 11G on one end and wire B9 & D22 together on the other end making this one 3 wire connection bundle on Plugs B & D.
Hope this helps clear things up.
When you wire your radio up, do not use the ground on the metra harness to your radio. Ground at amp under passenger seat.
 
I am putting in a new head unit that requires a GPS antenna.

Has anybody thought about a way to use the factory GPS antenna?
 
Just got it done and wow!!! It is awesome!! Thank you so much for all of you that have helped so much in this issue. I had a friend help me who has the tool to remove the taps from the connectors and reconnect them to the spot where they go in the new connector. Made it so much cleaner and only had to splice a few of the wires as needed or were different sizes.

If anyone is looking for the Nav unit, and DVD Nav unit, bezel etc let me know. I had installed a single din stereo on the bezel where the old tape deck was so I had to modify the bezel slightly. I can send pics if anyone needs it.
 
Has anyone here installed this Pioneer AVH-3500NEX? It popped up on my youtube playlist. Description mentions it retains factory nav (i realize most people here want to delete it). Looks like it just replaces the casette player, and would need a custom trim piece. Maybe a custom harness? I may reach out to crutchfield.




I have an 02 LX with factory nav, and really don't want to bother with locating another climate control unit with pig tails. I'm also happy enough with the Mark Levinson audio.

Thoughts?



It is doable. I just replaced the Nav in my 02 LC but for the last 2 years I had a single din Alpine deck mounted where the cassette deck used to be. I did have to have the bezel modified a bit to make it work but after you do that it was fine. That was the easier way to get bluetooth in there without using one of those crappy cassette tape converter things. I actually have the bezel now and will be selling it as I just put the 3 knob controller in. Good Luck!
 
I was just about to order a bunch of solder seal connectors to prepare for this project. What gauge are these wires? From the photos here I'm mostly seeing the red solder seals, which at least in the brand I'm looking at, are for 18-22 gauge. Sound right? And approximately how many connections are there? 4-5 harnesses with an average of maybe 16 wires each, I'm guessing its around 80, so I need at least 100.... I'll probably by double what I need since I plan on screwing things up and having to re-do everything.
 
I was just about to order a bunch of solder seal connectors to prepare for this project. What gauge are these wires? From the photos here I'm mostly seeing the red solder seals, which at least in the brand I'm looking at, are for 18-22 gauge. Sound right? And approximately how many connections are there? 4-5 harnesses with an average of maybe 16 wires each, I'm guessing its around 80, so I need at least 100.... I'll probably by double what I need since I plan on screwing things up and having to re-do everything.
There are 53 wires if you don't have rear heat. If you do, add another 4-5. If you are replacing the head unit, amp and speakers, you are looking at another 25 ish. So 100 of the 18-22 (red) would suffice. The ground connections are tight, but work. Good luck.
 
...use the solder shrink connectors (don't activate them until you have tested all cabling), take your time and enjoy yourself.

For guys that have done this, have you followed this advice and held off on heating the connectors until you've confirmed it's all working, or did you solder as you went?
 
For guys that have done this, have you followed this advice and held off on heating the connectors until you've confirmed it's all working, or did you solder as you went?
I soldered as I went. The last spreadsheet/pdf was accurate for me to the "T". I did not use the Rear Heat, so cannot speak to that. I think that is if you have the "Rear Hi/Lo" button. One wire at a time. I used a micro torch from Walmart. Took about 3 hours. Still working on the audio system.
 
There are 53 wires if you don't have rear heat. If you do, add another 4-5. If you are replacing the head unit, amp and speakers, you are looking at another 25 ish. So 100 of the 18-22 (red) would suffice. The ground connections are tight, but work. Good luck.
I used yellows for the few cases where three wires needed to be combined.

For guys that have done this, have you followed this advice and held off on heating the connectors until you've confirmed it's all working, or did you solder as you went?
I soldered as I went. Just move slowly and be sure you are following the pinouts to the t.

I used a heat gun and a homemade heat shield using some aluminum for the soldering.
 
Last edited:
For guys that have done this, have you followed this advice and held off on heating the connectors until you've confirmed it's all working, or did you solder as you went?

I soldered as I went. I had zero issues with continuity on the solder seals. They're phenomenal.

If you're worried about it, ensure you twist the wires around each other for a solid connection prior to sliding on the seal. But I didn't do that for the majority of my wires and they still all have solid continuity.
 
Another satisfied customer! 2001 w/nav to 2001 mechanical, all wires color matched which made it easy. Can't thank you guys who mapped the pins enough, what a game changer. You probably ought to be earning royalties, lol.

Now I just need to figure out how to hook up my new amp and head unit. Can't decide if it's easier just to tear out all the old stuff and start de novo or use what's there. Almost need another thread for that!

20200621_161039.jpg


20200622_180834.jpg
 
Is this security light supposed to blink every three seconds? I didn't have one with the Nav that I can recall...pretty sure it's normal but want to hear from the horses' mouths. This normal for non-nav?

20200623_101429.jpg
 
Last edited:
Is this security light supposed to blink every three seconds? I didn't have one with the Nav that I can recall...pretty sure it's normal but want to hear from the horses' mouths. This normal for non-nav?

View attachment 2348939
I haven't done the nav conversion on my 2002 yet, but I just did a full stereo replacement in a family member's 2000 with the same non-nav controls, and yes, that red security light is normal. I had not noticed it before the stereo replacement so I became mildly concerned I screwed something up before later confirming it had always been there (he had to really think as it only blinks when you don't have the car on, so many people don't notice it). You can experiment ... it disappears, but I'm not sure if it is when the key is inserted or when the key is turned.
 
Getting ready to do this tomorrow and now I am a bit confused. I printed the revised wiring guide and there are 4 highlighted boxes that I think need more wires. A11, A12, B9, and D22. ***But only A11 shows an additional wire going to it. I see you replied about B9 and D22 not needing a 3rd wire but what about A-12? It also shows only 2 wires to be connected. So is A11 the only spot to get multiple wires? Thanks so much for your hard work on this. Can't wait to be rid of the 2002 NAV.


REVISED
OK. I see it differently a bit now. Looks like B9 and D22 both have to get the G11 wire run to them. Am I seeing it correctly that A12 gets G21 ONLY and that A11 Gets BOTH G21 AND E8?

Or is B12 supposed to get E8 as well? I may be trying to make this harder than it is but i just want to make sure I do it right.


THX and any response would be most helpful!!

Apologies, I'm just seeing this. Did you get it working?
 
I haven't done the nav conversion on my 2002 yet, but I just did a full stereo replacement in a family member's 2000 with the same non-nav controls, and yes, that red security light is normal. I had not noticed it before the stereo replacement so I became mildly concerned I screwed something up before later confirming it had always been there (he had to really think as it only blinks when you don't have the car on, so many people don't notice it). You can experiment ... it disappears, but I'm not sure if it is when the key is inserted or when the key is turned.
That's the security light. It disappears when a master key is inserted (it might actually disappear when a master key is near, not necessarily inserted. Can't recall). Useful to know when you are reprogramming keys. If the light doesn't go away then you're using a valet key. At least that's my recollection... It's been a while since I programmed some new keys.
 
I've just been following this thread, and I'm almost there. On mine B9 is pink on the connector, which from a european diagram looks like foot2.
I've looked at a non nav 2002 car and that also has B9 as pink, it's definitely not to ground, I think i've found that as H7 on the wiring diagram.

The other one i've come unstuck on is D11 to E20. On the original loom E20 is white and green. But on my new plugs D11 is White and Black.
When tested on the non nav car D11 does seem to be a ground.
 
Been referring to this thread for a few months, just picked up a 2001 LC with factory nav and want to have this done but all my shops around Richmond,VA seem reluctant to do this. Any chance anyone on here can recommend a shop or anyone close by willing to do it? I’m willing to travel and will obviously pay for it to be worth while, I’m just not confident I can do myself. Much appreciated.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom