Pre-03 nav delete how-to (5 Viewers)

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I am glad to see you finally got it figured out. No man left behind and you were the only one I could think of that hadn't worked out the issues. In hindsight if you had someone close with a working AC Control you could have swapped and within 10 minutes narrowed down the problem to the control I say this for the next person that comes along and is having problems. Thanks for providing a link to the contact cleaner.

I have not heard of PowerPros. Can you post a photo or link to what you used? I have an older Fluke meter with sharp probes that I use. Not perfect but I can usually get a reading.
 
TXSunDevil said:
I am glad to see you finally got it figured out. No man left behind and you were the only one I could think of that hadn't worked out the issues. In hindsight if you had someone close with a working AC Control you could have swapped and within 10 minutes narrowed down the problem to the control I say this for the next person that comes along and is having problems. Thanks for providing a link to the contact cleaner.

I have not heard of PowerPros. Can you post a photo or link to what you used? I have an older Fluke meter with sharp probes that I use. Not perfect but I can usually get a reading.
Click to expand...

Ya, Covid definitely threw me a curveball for that by making my employer lock me down in my city. lol

A nice multimeter will get it done fine. I just got the PowerProbe at the recommendation of another Mudder here because I plan to be doing lots of this stuff in the future on this and other vehicles. It can function like a multimeter for volts and continuity, but has some other cool features too. Main benefits:

-Audible tones for both power (like 12-14v) and ground, so you don't have to see the screen
-Ability to apply ground with the push of a button
-Ability to apply power with the push of a button
-The kit I got came with 2 probes that can pierce wire which was huge for quickly checking continuity of my connections
-And it does a whole litany of other things I'm not in deep enough to need, but may help in the future like - driver testing, fuel injector testing, open circuit/short detection with the ECT3000

They make cheaper ones that get the job done like the PP3, but I decided to go all out. Don't know why it's so much now, I paid like $269...

Amazon product ASIN B01KY4APFQ
 
brauski said:
Aight guys, I finally crossed the finish line today. Thanks everyone for this amazing thread, and especially to @TXSunDevil and @BillZ260 for helping me with my troubleshooting. For those of you who were following along, I ended up rewiring the mag clutch wires, and cleaned the contacts on the controls. Pretty sure my controls just had bad contacts the whole time. :bang:

View attachment 2333582

Here are my lessons learned:
1. "Cleaning" the HVAC controls isn't a soap and water or even air duster type deal. I initially decided mine were good after disassembling, as it looked brand new inside. However, it turns out these old controls have issues with oxidation/corrosion on the button contacts - causing them to be finicky. I would strongly recommend that you clean your secondhand controls prior to testing them. I used CAIG's Deoxit D100L with the needle tip and it worked wonders. I had no visible oxidation or corrosion from the start, but got 69% of my inop buttons back after one application, and a second application on two stubborn ones. They now all work. Some guy did a great writeup on FB on how to do it. If he hasn't posted it on MUD, I'm gonna get his permission and post that here so future guys can use it.
Amazon product ASIN B0000YH6F8
Click to expand...

So you think the biggest part of your problem was that button with the green light here labeled A/C?
 
lesgarten said:
So you think the biggest part of your problem was that button with the green light here labeled A/C?
Click to expand...

One of them. If I remember right my buttons worked like this:

Normal:
Temp rheostat, Hazards, CDL, H, M, :00, Front defog

Intermittent:
Rear defog, Rear A/C, Mirror heat

Inop:
AUTO, OFF, FAN, MODE, Recirculate, and A/C

Mode and Recirculate needed an additional application of Deoxit to get to 100%.
 
brauski said:
One of them. If I remember right my buttons worked like this:

Normal:
Temp rheostat, Hazards, CDL, H, M, :00, Front defog

Intermittent:
Rear defog, Rear A/C, Mirror heat

Inop:
AUTO, OFF, FAN, MODE, Recirculate, and A/C

Mode and Recirculate needed an additional application of Deoxit to get to 100%.
Click to expand...

My buttons are a little sticky on the 3 knob I got. May want to do this I guess.
 
lesgarten said:
My buttons are a little sticky on the 3 knob I got. May want to do this I guess.
Click to expand...

From my research after the fact, it seems as though see Deoxit is somewhat a temporary solution. Some people claimed the contacts degraded again after around a year. Looks like the the other option is to replace the contacts, there's a thread on here that that's pretty detailed for that.
 
Has anyone here installed this Pioneer AVH-3500NEX? It popped up on my youtube playlist. Description mentions it retains factory nav (i realize most people here want to delete it). Looks like it just replaces the casette player, and would need a custom trim piece. Maybe a custom harness? I may reach out to crutchfield.

www.crutchfield.com

Pioneer AVH-3500NEX

DVD receiver
www.crutchfield.com www.crutchfield.com



I have an 02 LX with factory nav, and really don't want to bother with locating another climate control unit with pig tails. I'm also happy enough with the Mark Levinson audio.

Thoughts?
 
Last edited:
I got all of the wiring completed last night late. Going to hook up the LC bezel when I get home to test. Tell, me, none of the "Rear Heat" had wires to hook up to in the factory dash harness. (My factory bezel has the REAR button) Is this normal? 2002 LX with ML.
Also, crunched for time because I have to put this back together before going camping Saturday and I still have the speakers and amp in, and interior to install. Does anyone know off the top of their head which wire to tap into for reverse light for backup camera?

20200608_195102.jpg
 
1gr8FoSemty said:
I got all of the wiring completed last night late. Going to hook up the LC bezel when I get home to test. Tell, me, none of the "Rear Heat" had wires to hook up to in the factory dash harness. (My factory bezel has the REAR button) Is this normal? 2002 LX with ML.
Also, crunched for time because I have to put this back together before going camping Saturday and I still have the speakers and amp in, and interior to install. Does anyone know off the top of their head which wire to tap into for reverse light for backup camera?

View attachment 2336768
Click to expand...
No clue on the backup camera. But my man, where are you located? You look like you could use another set of hands? I doubt you're near me....but still
 
@1gr8FoSemty Here's a pic I found of my conversion for the backup camera. Looks like red wire with black stripe in the driver side tool compartment behind the tail.

backup_camera.jpg
 
1gr8FoSemty said:
I got all of the wiring completed last night late. Going to hook up the LC bezel when I get home to test. Tell, me, none of the "Rear Heat" had wires to hook up to in the factory dash harness. (My factory bezel has the REAR button) Is this normal? 2002 LX with ML.
Also, crunched for time because I have to put this back together before going camping Saturday and I still have the speakers and amp in, and interior to install. Does anyone know off the top of their head which wire to tap into for reverse light for backup camera?

View attachment 2336768
Click to expand...


/Engage Beast Mode


How many sq feet of Killmat so far?
 
1gr8FoSemty said:
I bought 50...almost done with interior. Bought 25 more for doors. I did not do the ceiling because I am scared to take the headliner down, lol.
Click to expand...

I'm kinda scared to do the headliner as well. Looks like you kicked butt on the rest of it though!
 
I am using the Metra harness for my nav and ML delete. Where do you guys mount the ground for the new radio in the dash ? Or do you tie in to an existing ground? Pic for your viewing pleasure...
It appears that my temperature arrow indicator, as well as the indicator on the fan speed light is out.

20200611_205851.jpg


20200611_210150.jpg
 
1gr8FoSemty said:
I am using the Metra harness for my nav and ML delete. Where do you guys mount the ground for the new radio in the dash ? Or do you tie in to an existing ground? Pic for your viewing pleasure...
It appears that my temperature arrow indicator, as well as the indicator on the fan speed light is out.

View attachment 2337208

View attachment 2337209
Click to expand...

If I remember correctly the ground ties in under the passenger seat on the stock amp.
I had to redo my ground when I replaced my factory amp.
 
Soooo I’m having an issue where the clock is resetting every time I turn the car off, but not having that issue on the head unit. Any ideas?
 
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