Power Windows and Door Locks--Permanent Fix! (1 Viewer)

[Spook50]

The wiring in the video would work. However you would have to modify the factory wiring in the 62 to accommodate that system, if you want the lockout switch to work as intended.

A much simpler way would be to use the factory wires and switches to trigger the newly installed relays.
The relays would switch the current for the window motors ( 5-7 Amps ) and the factory switches would only switch the current needed to trigger the relays ( .1 Amp ) All switches work as before, including the lockout switch. ( I should post the diagram. I’ll draw it up tomorrow and post it )

I guess I owe you a donut. Sometimes I forget about the rain and bad weather, we’re sooo
“ lucky “ here in LA. Nothing but Sunshine!!!

I think the replacement for the solenoid would be a newer style door lock motor. I was going to do that before I figured out my problem. I will post a picture of the one I’d install. If I remember correctly it’s made by DEI.
Much stronger than others on the market. Part number DEI 524N

Thank you for the kind words on my install. I ordered the connectors from Digikey.

That'd actually my intention is to use the factory wiring to signal the relays, basically installing them electrically between the factory wiring connector and the motors & solenoids. The great thing about my plan is that since the driver's window is already relay fed in the OEM configuration, there is no need to add extra window relays to the driver's door window circuit; only the other three doors. Because of this the auto down function isn't lost.

Also though this didn't happen in my rig, I've had a couple Mudders tell me that their driver's door window worked faster than before when I refurbished their relay boxes. I suppose depending on the internal condition of the relay contacts that could be a factor, just like with the contacts in our switches.

 

[LA Z]

As I promised, here is the diagram. Hopefully it makes sense.

The diodes are 1N4001 or similar.

 

[Spook50]

As I promised, here is the diagram. Hopefully it makes sense.View attachment 3082947View attachment 3082953
The diodes are 1N4001 or similar.

Gotta say I'm pretty enamored with how clean of an installation you made. I should hurry up and get on this myself. Gotta make a digikey order later today so I'll look for those connectors and terminals (and relay sockets) too while I'm on there.

 

[LA Z]

Thank you.
This should help ordering the plugs

 

[LA Z]

Don’t forget the passenger front door window motor plug is a three terminal plug. Unfortunately I don’t have the part number for that, but it should be easy to find once you looked up the other ones.
I got the relay sockets from Allelectronics. Part number : SRLY-4

 

[Spook50]

Don’t forget the passenger front door window motor plug is a three terminal plug. Unfortunately I don’t have the part number for that, but it should be easy to find once you looked up the other ones.
I got the relay sockets from Allelectronics. Part number : SRLY-4

Interesting, I don't remember noticing that my front passenger window motor used a three terminal plug when I had it apart a few weeks ago. I'll have to take a look again. IIRC the plug coming from the switch was, but not the connection to the motor itself. Now I'm going to look again and sate my curiosity....

 

[LA Z]

I didn’t remember either. There’s only two terminal in the connector.

I just swapped out the OEM housings for the ones I had. Luckily the terminals are the same, so no problem there.

 

[atlshaun]

Is anyone willing to do this for a fee? I will mail you all of my switches and whatever else is necessary. PM me if so.

 

[kevin in okinawa]

Is anyone willing to do this for a fee? I will mail you all of my switches and whatever else is necessary. PM me if so.

contact Matt from VintageTeqParts.com Home Page – VintageTEqParts.com - https://vintageteqparts.com/ he has LOTS of unobtainium electrical parts and may be able to rescue you.

 

[WoodnotRust]

Is anyone willing to do this for a fee? I will mail you all of my switches and whatever else is necessary. PM me if so.

Hi @atlshaun . A good part of the work that is required to fix your power window and door locks with the added relays needs to be done on the wiring in the vehicle. It isn't as simple as mailing in a switch and then plugging it back in place. There are members here who can guide you through this process, but you need to have some minimal ability to cut, splice and run wires in tight spaces. I suggest you read through the thread(s) until you think you understand it fairly well, then copy or make your own wiring diagram and bring this to a car stereo/alarm shop in your area and ask them what they will charge to wire up the relays. Show them pictures and if they are willing to go ahead you (or the shop) can order the mini SPDT relays that are required.

It is worth the effort though. I was just thinking today how sweet it is to have working windows and door locks!

 

[atlshaun]

Hi @atlshaun . A good part of the work that is required to fix your power window and door locks with the added relays needs to be done on the wiring in the vehicle. It isn't as simple as mailing in a switch and then plugging it back in place. There are members here who can guide you through this process, but you need to have some minimal ability to cut, splice and run wires in tight spaces. I suggest you read through the thread(s) until you think you understand it fairly well, then copy or make your own wiring diagram and bring this to a car stereo/alarm shop in your area and ask them what they will charge to wire up the relays. Show them pictures and if they are willing to go ahead you (or the shop) can order the mini SPDT relays that are required.

It is worth the effort though. I was just thinking today how sweet it is to have working windows and door locks!

Ahhhh gotcha. I’m sure I can do it I just didn’t feel like it. I guess I will have to.

 

[franklin40]

lol. i have so many of those i just don’t feel like it projects! this one included.

 

[kevin in okinawa]

Would this be an appropriate relay for a 24v 12ht? https://www.waytekwire.com/catalog/...icker-pc792e-1c-c-24s-rn-x-mini-iso-relay-24v and this for the pigtail? https://www.waytekwire.com/catalog/...nectors/5-pin-relay-socket-with-12-wire-leads

 

[LA Z]

Would this be an appropriate relay for a 24v 12ht? https://www.waytekwire.com/catalog/...icker-pc792e-1c-c-24s-rn-x-mini-iso-relay-24v and this for the pigtail? https://www.waytekwire.com/catalog/...nectors/5-pin-relay-socket-with-12-wire-leads

Yes, those items will do the job.
Let me know if you have any other questions about the install.

 

[BurntToast]

Did this and the main relay fix today. I didn’t want to use the large relays so I bought these mini ones. Here’s a parts list. Rated to 30A and not made in China crap relays.

4-1904124-3 | DigiKey Electronics

Order TE Connectivity AMP Connectors 4-1904124-3 (A122157-ND) at DigiKey. Check stock and pricing, view product specifications, and order online.

www.digikey.com

1-1904045-5 | DigiKey Electronics

Order today, ships today. 1-1904045-5 – Relay Housing Wiring Harness, Interlockable from TE Connectivity Potter & Brumfield Relays. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.

www.digikey.com

280919-4 | DigiKey Electronics

Order today, ships today. 280919-4 – 0.187" (4.75mm) Quick Connect Female 15-20 AWG Crimp Connector Non-Insulated from TE Connectivity AMP Connectors. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.

www.digikey.com

281197-2 | DigiKey Electronics

Order today, ships today. 281197-2 – 0.187" (4.75mm) Quick Connect Female 13-17 AWG Crimp Connector Non-Insulated from TE Connectivity AMP Connectors. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.

www.digikey.com

160917-2 | DigiKey Electronics

Order today, ships today. 160917-2 – 0.250" (6.35mm) Quick Connect Female 13-17 AWG Crimp Connector Non-Insulated from TE Connectivity AMP Connectors. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.

www.digikey.com

Total cost for good parts, $40


The relay holders nest/connect to each other like the above post

 

[fraserb]

Hi BK,

I’ve done the relays in my doors ( passenger side front and the two rears ) and I can tell you it made a world of difference. Going from 15-16 seconds to 4-5.

I did however decided to run 12awg power wire into my doors directly from the battery with a fuse installed close to the battery. I didn’t want the current going through the old window switches, because those switches are one of the main source of the problem when your windows are moving slow ( other than bad ground and failing fusible links ) electrically speaking.

Also changed the wiring on the relays and went with the diodes on each relay, so I can keep the window lock out switch functional and keep my switches happy with only a small current flowing through them. Every switch works as intended from the factory.

I don’t like to cut factory wires so I got some connectors and made the relays plug and play at the window motor plugs.

Let me know if you want to know more about the diagram or have any other questions.

View attachment 3081983

View attachment 3081984

Hey @LA Z,
I'm curious how you approached running 12v from the battery? Four separate wires?
I want to do this mod, but, like you I want to keep the factory lock switch operational.
I've ordered the connections from digikey - thanks for putting that together + the diagram!

I would like to be as minimally-invasive as possible. So would prefer not adding a large fusebox (if that's what the photo where you put 'fusible links' in the description).

 

[WoodnotRust]

FYI @fraserb ...this was probably the best mod that's been done to my truck. The locks snap to attention and the windows roll up and down like a modern car...all operating with the original motors. There is certainly a way to preserve the operation of the factory lock switch. In my case I had Viper aftermarket remote for the door locks and an alarm system and when wired correctly all work flawlessly. I'm not writing this to tell you how, but to encourage you to complete the job as instructed by either LA Z or BurntToast. Both of these gentlemen come know how to marry form with function.

 

[fraserb]

As I promised, here is the diagram. Hopefully it makes sense.View attachment 3082947View attachment 3082953
The diodes are 1N4001 or similar.

I'm a total novice when it comes to wiring. But from the photo of the actual relays together. It appears as though 85 on both relays are wired together and fed to the switch and 86 from both relays are wired together, with diodes between, and then go to the switch.

Am I crazy?

Thanks. And hope LA Z is safe with the wild fires!!

 

[WoodnotRust]

I have a set of 5-pin SPDT relays for anyone willing to pay postage. I bought these back in 2022 for this mod, but on the advise of LA Z I decided to go with a smaller relay. Perhaps @LA Z can confirm that these will work if you are willing to use this slightly larger version (actual size = 2-1/8 x 1-1/2 x 1-3/8'). It is also possible that I bought the wrong type, so postage payer beware. Pic's follow:

 

[r71]

Just did this mod. Followed instructions and it worked like a charm. Thanks!