Found my power steering pump was leaking, is it worth it to do the seal kit or should I just replace it?
Power steering leak
- Thread starter jmueller6002
- Start date
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Would you rather spend $20 or $200 ?
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
If you are tearing it apart I would replace all the hoses too. A real PITA but as you have to get in there anyway, may as well do them all.
If it was me I would save the money and rebuild the pump and use the "savings" and spend it on the hoses. Chances are the hose between the pump and reservoir is rock hard anyway. With the age of the rest of them why chance it.
Take out the battery and battery box, remove the steering damper and the cover just over the top of it. You may even want to change the belts too...
Oh, be VERY careful of the gear on the pump. Even slight damage and it will need to be replaced. Once you are done make sure everything is tight including the belt tensioner under the A/C. Bleeding the system is strait forward, place it on jacks start er up and have someone turn it to the left and right slowly until you stop seeing bubbles. Don't overfill, add as little as you need to as you go.
Oh, did I say changing the hoses is a PITA? Well make sure you have no little children present, makes the PHH seem easy in comparison...
If it was me I would save the money and rebuild the pump and use the "savings" and spend it on the hoses. Chances are the hose between the pump and reservoir is rock hard anyway. With the age of the rest of them why chance it.
Take out the battery and battery box, remove the steering damper and the cover just over the top of it. You may even want to change the belts too...
Oh, be VERY careful of the gear on the pump. Even slight damage and it will need to be replaced. Once you are done make sure everything is tight including the belt tensioner under the A/C. Bleeding the system is strait forward, place it on jacks start er up and have someone turn it to the left and right slowly until you stop seeing bubbles. Don't overfill, add as little as you need to as you go.
Oh, did I say changing the hoses is a PITA? Well make sure you have no little children present, makes the PHH seem easy in comparison...
^solid advice^
- Thread starter
- #5
I appreciate the advice, I just wasn't sure how complicated the pump was to take a part or if I needed any special tools to do so.
Search is your friend; power+steering+pump+rebuild in the 80 forum. Use the + sign between words to narrow the results. I got 160 hits. The link below is in the Frequently Asked Questions section.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/ca-jefferson-state-cruisers/467550-fj80-lx450-ps-pump-rebuild.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/ca-jefferson-state-cruisers/467550-fj80-lx450-ps-pump-rebuild.html
I think they recently changed something on the forum search engine. I used to use + signs all the time too, but lately I found I don't have to. I searched for power steering pump rebuild with and without the plus signs and got 196 results both times. I was happy to no longer have to put in all the +s.
My recollection is that you need an impact wrench. I used the cheap 110 volt HF one.
Hornd
SILVER Star
Here is what you want to make it go smooth (pump too):
15MM 12 Point Socket
Puller Rental from Autozone or O'reileys
2' of Gates 5/8" Hose and hose clamps to fit.
Few cans of brake cleaner
Rebuild kit from Gates (Rock Auto if not sourced locally).
Take pics with your phone as you remove each component in pump, so you can see to put back together.
It's a fun job if your patient.
I would leave fins in rotor and remove as complete unit.
Get a name brand bearing to replace yours so your not held up if it is bad. My LC has 185K and bearing was in great shape.
Take your time....The saying goes "Act in haste, Repent at your leisure"
15MM 12 Point Socket
Puller Rental from Autozone or O'reileys
2' of Gates 5/8" Hose and hose clamps to fit.
Few cans of brake cleaner
Rebuild kit from Gates (Rock Auto if not sourced locally).
Take pics with your phone as you remove each component in pump, so you can see to put back together.
It's a fun job if your patient.
I would leave fins in rotor and remove as complete unit.
Get a name brand bearing to replace yours so your not held up if it is bad. My LC has 185K and bearing was in great shape.
Take your time....The saying goes "Act in haste, Repent at your leisure"
Hornd
SILVER Star
Forgot you will need Pneumatic to get gear nut off...
Good advice. The only thing I noticed was you will need 3/8 inch hose (and new hose clamps). Gates makes rubber "transmission cooler" line I found at O'Reily's. I'm pretty sure the 5/8 hose is what is used for replacing the heater core water lines.
The only other thing I might add would be a flare fitting wrench to use on the high pressure line. It was a while ago, but it is either a 17mm or 15mm. The wrench I bought was a Craftsman and it had these two sizes on each end.
The only other thing I might add would be a flare fitting wrench to use on the high pressure line. It was a while ago, but it is either a 17mm or 15mm. The wrench I bought was a Craftsman and it had these two sizes on each end.
inkpot
SILVER Star
The 5/8" line is from the reservoir to the pump. The other lines down low are 3/8". John
Where exactly is your leak coming from? After wrapping up a HG replacement, I'm now in the mood to tackle my PS leak... spent last evening cleaning up the pump to where it was clean and dry and I could see where my leak was coming from. Turns out its coming from the metal tubes flange (bad rubber o-ring) for the return hose that mates to the PS pump (only a single screw holds it in place so pretty lame design imo). The high pressure side with the bango fitting and two metal o-ring is clean and dry as are all the hoses to the gearbox. I ordered the o-ring and will be here tomorrow. <$10 for the o-ring and a quart of fluid.
WET
WET
Hornd
SILVER Star
The high pressure line on mine was 21 or 22MM and if it spins like mine did before coming out I used a piece of 2x4 and a adjustable wrench (Crescent wrench) to hold it, while I broke the 21 or 22 free from the top.
You can remove reservoir line when it's on the bench (in the vise).
I was told specifically to NOT use the same rubber hoses for Coolant and oil.
I did get my Gates line at Oreileys and they said it was made for oil and that coolant will eat oil lines or vice versa. It was about $2 a foot and fit well. No need to go OEM. The original lines lasted ~18 yrs and that's a long time for rubber. Mine were still good, but I had to destroy to remove, you will likely encounter the same.
Just to clarify, I agree that the 3/8 line that should be used MUST be oil rated and the stuff O'reily's sells with "transmission cooler line" written on the hose is it. The 5/8 hose mentioned earlier made me think the poster was confused with the same size of water line hose that is used to replace the coolant lines. I didn't use 5/8 on the reservoir when I replaced mine because Toyota (CDan) sells that hose by itself.
I apologize if someone thought that they could use coolant hose for power steering/transmission cooler rubber lines from my post. Bad advice sucks.
The flare fitting on the end of the high pressure line going into the steering gear is 17mm (i'm at home now and actually checked), and a flare fitting wrench will go a long way in not squishing the nut. The union bolt on the other side of the high pressure line is 22mm and gave me a fit getting off also.
I apologize if someone thought that they could use coolant hose for power steering/transmission cooler rubber lines from my post. Bad advice sucks.
The flare fitting on the end of the high pressure line going into the steering gear is 17mm (i'm at home now and actually checked), and a flare fitting wrench will go a long way in not squishing the nut. The union bolt on the other side of the high pressure line is 22mm and gave me a fit getting off also.
Did mine yesterday on 96LX with 192k to resolve wetness and dripping. (Truck - not me) Looked at posts and got the dismal "this is gonna suck" feeling. It was actually quite simple. I used the impact and long extension for the 22mm banjo bolt on the HPL without incident. It did not take much at all. I removed battery, box, bottom plate, oil filter, dizzy coil wire, and a couple small hoses in the way. This allowed plenty of room to view and work. Toyota pretty well idiot-proofed all parts of the system including the pump. Just pay attention during disassembly. Clean and lube well. Had a cheap 3 jaw puller which made quick work of the drive gear. Used the impact just for fun.
Cleaning up the old mess and snow/sludge melting onto my face sorta sucked but the rest was not bad. Seal kit came with parts diagram and block Oring. Bearing was fine. I was quite surprised how effortless bleeding the air out was. The only residual kept was in the steering box. Took no special measures to minimize air. Most bubbled out with a few turns of the wheel.
Pump seal kit Delco $20
Aftermarket HPL $32
Fluid $6
5/8 and 3/8 bulk hose - free- parts clerk could not figure out how to enter UPC.
$60 and a few hours to dry happiness!
Cleaning up the old mess and snow/sludge melting onto my face sorta sucked but the rest was not bad. Seal kit came with parts diagram and block Oring. Bearing was fine. I was quite surprised how effortless bleeding the air out was. The only residual kept was in the steering box. Took no special measures to minimize air. Most bubbled out with a few turns of the wheel.
Pump seal kit Delco $20
Aftermarket HPL $32
Fluid $6
5/8 and 3/8 bulk hose - free- parts clerk could not figure out how to enter UPC.
$60 and a few hours to dry happiness!
