power steering issue by low RPM/ idling only (3 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jul 4, 2017
Threads
6
Messages
43
Location
Slovakia
Hi to all,

I have noticed that sometimes it is hard to turn the steering wheel when idiling or low rpms. I have changed power steering fluid as it was gray, but this did not help.
Has anyone experienced this kind of issue ? It is that the power steering does not genereate enough pressure by low RPMs? or is it the stering rack failure?
Does it make sense to change gasket and seals in power steering pump?

Additional info from todays inspection - I have noticed that the spower steering fluid is getting greyish again and I did not find any leaks on steering rack or around the pump and hoses.

Thanks.
 
Some possibilities come to mind other than bad pump:
Power steering fluid used instead of ATF.
Air in system! You'll see bubble/foam in reservoir while turning steering wheel.
Vacuum lines bad or disconnected.

Note: Vane pump will generally leak when bad.
 
Remove the PS reservoir and clean up the mesh (I used brake cleaner, took 2 cans to finally loose the grime) and change the fluid again.
That procedure did wonders on mine.
 
Hi to all,

bigredmachine
I looked under the bonnet to check the 1pin connector but I cannot find it from the top.I have also attached a photo. Or is it connected from the bottom?

2001LC
I this issue was present also before I changed the fluid. I have used ATF4 fluid. I have also checked if there are not any bubbles in the reservoir, and there are none.
If we are talking about vacum lines? Can you be please more specific so that I have the idea where to look ? Od do you mean vacumm lines in general?

Leandro
I will definitelly have to do this as well as the fluid is getting gray.

Thank you

20180904_092333.jpg
 
Double vacuum line coming off the control valve:
20180904_092333.jpg

008.JPG
004.JPG
001.JPG


@Leandro mention, clean the reservoir screen. I've found some that were very clogged, taking hours to clean out the gunk. You may find this helpfull: Steering Flush & Cleaning
 
So finally I got time to clean the reservoir.. hope it will help.. I will post upde once I drive couple of kilemeters....
 
Check your tensioner pulley as well. If it's loose/wiggling you probably have same belt slippage at low RPM. Based on your fluid condition, you DEFINITELY need a complete flush. If that goop is in your rack, it's just a matter of time before the rack fails.
 
Did you mention how many miles are on your vehicle?

My Lexus GS400 has (for all intents and purposes) the same engine. At 190k it was doing what yours is doing, no steering assist at idle. I tried flushing, cleaning, bleeding, etc, and nothing helped, so I just got a 90k mile wrecking yard pump from eBay and now it works perfect.
 
Hi i just bought mine with 350k km.. . Now it has 362k km...I will see if the flush helps. If not I will investigate further.
 
#1 cause of rack failure=dirty fluid. Once F'd, there's no amount of flushing that will help. I'm hopeful it solves your issue, but having done it myself for months- the rack may need to be replaced at the end of the day.
 
So.. today as I was doing the flush I discovered a hole in a boot..and the oil is leaking. Thats why the oil was so greyish..my question is if it is possible to change the seal on steering rack or it has to be rebuilt?

Thank you
 
Gotta replace it. Oil should not be in that boot to begin with. Just do both the pump and the rack at the same time to save yourself headaches.
 
So.. today as I was doing the flush I discovered a hole in a boot..and the oil is leaking. Thats why the oil was so greyish..my question is if it is possible to change the seal on steering rack or it has to be rebuilt?

Thank you
Basically replacing seals is a rebuilt rack. If fluid is coming out of boot, you can try 1 1/3 oz of AT-205 reseal. Poor it in reservoir an run for 5 hours minimum, either over time or all 5 hrs at once. It helps with seal that have become old and dry, but will not help damaged seals.

Flushing first will help prep seals by cleaning them if you use a synthetic like Mobil 1 MV ATF. Then add your AT-205 reseal. If nothing else you'll be ready for a replacement rack with clean and condition system. I'd not put in anything thing else in, no stop leaks or flushes.

It's been mentioned above but worth repeating clean out the reservoir paying special attention to the screen (mesh) in the bottom of it.

Steering Flush & Cleaning

I've seen AT-205 work 100% of time with input shaft at control valve. It's been reported to work well with the rack side seal. I've never seen it work with leaky vane pump front seal, nor with leaky hoses.

If all rack & pinion leaks stop, then reboot for $20. If any leaks after the AT-205 you'll need new or rebuilt rack & pinion.
 
Hi I have decided to rebuilt it. This way I am sure that it wil nor fail that soon.:) steerimg rack will be removed next weekend:) hipefullu it will not be a strugle to get it out..
 
Hi I have decided to rebuilt it. This way I am sure that it wil nor fail that soon.:) steerimg rack will be removed next weekend:) hipefullu it will not be a strugle to get it out..
I suggest you read-up on removing it! Also look into to cost of kits.
 
A rebuilt steering rack if I return mine costs approx 5-600eur... removal procedure is clear based on the infos from manual. Hopefully the quality of rebuilt will be OK
 
So I decided to do it by myslef... it is really a struggle to get the steering rack out of a 20year old car... the old steering is out.. and now I just need to find a motivation to get the new one back in the car... the old one was leaking from both sides,both boots were full of oil. Hopefully this will not needed to be done again ever.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom