Power steering conversion advice (1 Viewer)

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Sep 18, 2013
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Hi all
I am about to do a power steering conversion on my Australian bj40.
I am running a 13b diesel which has the "built in" power steering pump.
My question is mainly about the steering box. I have a 60 series box and pitman arm I bought for the conversion, however I also have an 80 series box and pitman arm as a spare from my daily driver,
Which box would you recommend using and why?
Which box would be better matched to the power steering pump?
I will be running 35" muddies - do you recommend an oil cooler? I'm assuming if I put one in, it should go in the high pressure line?
Thanks
 

DPV7070

ForceFed40
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It certainly can't hurt to run a cooler and as far as the fluid cooler location... it will be in the low pressure side. I can't help you with the gearbox choice since I'm not familiar with those, but I'm sure someone here can help.
 

forksinthetrail

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I just had a RHD box installed on my HJ47 (2H diesel) from a RHD HJ60 and it turned out very clean. It has an oil cooler and I am on 33's. Steers real well, feels plenty strong.
 
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Check this post out:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-dsrtrdr-is-getting-some-tlc.749124/page-18#post-8735970

Cooler goes on the low pressure side, and yes you will want one.

Exactly the info I was after!
Looks like the 80 series box is the way to go: from an overall strength, high speed stability and parts availability in the future point of view. Only negative it seems is slightly more difficulty to install due to its size and because it needs to be installed further forward.
Being installed further forward will help with my shock tower position/alignment with bottom shock mount as I've installed 75 series springs and moved front diff. 50 mm forward .
Thanks for the link!
 
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I just had a RHD box installed on my HJ47 (2H diesel) from a RHD HJ60 and it turned out very clean. It has an oil cooler and I am on 33's. Steers real well, feels plenty strong.
Can you please take some photos of the box position in relation to shock tower, especially from top of engine bay looking down ?
What did you do for steering shafts ?
Any hassle with engineering (What state are you in )?
Thanks
 

forksinthetrail

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I will get some good pics and post tomorrow. Tor at Torfab in Seattle did mine, he has what seems to be an encyclopediac knowledge of what works in what and what the pitfalls might be. It is best to just call him at the shop...if he answers he will give you some solid advice for no charge.
 
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Can you please take some photos of the box position in relation to shock tower, especially from top of engine bay looking down ?
What did you do for steering shafts ?
Any hassle with engineering (What state are you in )?
Thanks

Vehicle mods in the States aren't under as much scrutiny as in Oz it seems...

If you can, I would recommend you use a company like Borgeson to make a custom steering shaft for you. Not cheap but the cleanest option. You are going to have to move your shock towers. For FJ60 conversions the Ford F-250 shock towers are a popular option here in the States. They can be bolted or welded to the frame and they are cheap. I used them on my conversion (see my sig line for link). I liked how I was able to position the FJ60 box so as not to have to move the radiator support frame. Not sure if that is possible with the 80 box. I know to Tools R Us and company it's no big deal, but for those of us with limited access to welding and fab equipment, that was a big plus. Also reduces the number of custom components used, which in my book is a good thing. Good luck.
 

forksinthetrail

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Tor was able to do mine with only a small notch out of the shock tower - it does not appear to be significant, maybe it is the RHD that makes it different?
 
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The shock towers are cheap, but postage to Australia is between us $85 and. $100.... I thought I got lucky and got a set of f250 shock towers from an Australian wrecker, but they must have been from an earlier (or at least different model).
This is what came in the post:
image.jpg

I'll still use them, but they actually lean inwards ( instead of out) a bit. That's why I'd like a couple of top down shots to see roughly where the shaft ends up - I'm guessing roughly mid way along the chassis frame and approx 4" higher than the top of the chassis.
I've got another post where I ask if their are any strength/reliability issues with the pin type shock (as these are) rather than the eye type. So far only comments have been that there is a greater choice of shocks for the eye type.
As these towers are quite a bit wider than the factory ones, I might have to decide if it's more important to get a good alignment of the pitman arm and steering linkage or if it's better to align the shock tower with the bottom shock mount.
Seems with the 80 box sitting further forward it helps a bit with shock alignment, but I might get in trouble with the radiator support:-(
Fun and games!!!
 
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You may want to drill holes in the box for hydaulic assist before you put it in just in case you decide to add a ram later.
 
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Firstly,
Those photos help a lot. Last night I removed the font grill etc to try to eyeball in towards the firewall. With these photos it makes it easier to visualise.
Being RHD I have an advantage that the radiator support is offset to the other side, so should clear either box.
Your photos showing clearance to the ford towers are a bit worrying - the ford towers tilted outward from the photos I've seen - like in this one:
image.jpg

So I thought you would get better clearance than the type I got which tilt inwards.
Looks like I'll end to take the guard off after all to mock it all up. Was hoping to notch it out without taking the truck apart again:)

Secondly,
Just for my knowledge where do you drill for hydraulic assist and how will it work?
Hydraulic ram assist will not fly with the engineers in Australia. ( only used on rock buggies that aren't street driven) so it's purely for my knowledge. I think it has something to do with the ram not automatically returning to centre.

Thanks for the replies guys - much appreciated!
 
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Joined
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You are right, the towers tilt outward as-purchased. However people have been known to cut slots and straighten them, and then weld little triangle patch pieces in the gussets. Depends on what you're trying to accomplish and what your particular geometry is.
 

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