- Thread starter
- #21
I've decided it's the input shaft that's leaking and the low pressure hose on the pump side.
Power Steering box - where to go from here? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter MDarius
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I've decided it's the input shaft that's leaking and the low pressure hose on the pump side.
I was sure my steering shaft was leaking. But, the low pressure hoses were old so I changed them first and no more leak.
Glad it worked out for you. Always better to start with the easy/ less expansive stuff first.
- Thread starter
- #24
I didn't finish tonight. The plunger doesn't fit going back in, must have done something wrong. I quit at midnight:30 when my daughter came in to the garage and told me I wasn't going to get it done in time for the weekend trip and she was ok with that.
I'm concerned that I missed some O-rings and seals.
I got:
1. The new input shaft seal, followed by the bearing.
2. The large o-ring on the outside near the lock rings.
3. The teflon ring on the power piston. The original was worn down in one spot, BTW. Completey broken for about 1/8th of an inch. Easy to install the new one though.
4. Did the bearings, installed the power piston to the housing, tightened the 4 bolts.
5. Replaced the small o-ring on the plunger cap (10mm Allen plug)
In the drawing it looks like there is another large circumference o-ring that belongs on the power piston somewhere. I searched while I had it apart and couldn't find anything.
That's as far as I got tonight. Heading out of town in the other rig for the weekend and will start up again next week.
My DeWalt angle grinder tool was nearly the right size to turn the the lock rings, not quite.
Make sure you get the pre-load correct on that spanner nut. If left too loose it will create end play and slop in the steering that is not related to the sector shaft and you'll be back in there....
.
There's a teflon ring over an o-ring and under a steel washer on the pitman exit end of the gear.
The FSM calls out a special tool to iron that ring into position.
I polished the sector shaft where indicated and used it as the iron by inserting it backward into the gear box.
I wire wheeled all the loose crud off and then worked up to 400 grit emery paper to make that area smooth and useful as the assembly iron.
Should you follow that path, don't get into the seal area of the sector shaft with the polishing.
Did you count the balls, there are 44 of them. (just in case you find your-self crawling around on the shop floor with magnet).
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- Thread starter
- #27
View attachment 2374421there's an o-ring under that teflon seal. is that the one you couldn't find?
View attachment 2374425
Make sure you get the pre-load correct on that spanner nut. If left too loose it will create end play and slop in the steering that is not related to the sector shaft and you'll be back in there....
View attachment 2374428
There's a teflon ring over an o-ring and under a steel washer on the pitman exit end of the gear.
The FSM calls out a special tool to iron that ring into position.
I polished the sector shaft where indicated and used it as the iron by inserting it backward into the gear box.
I wire wheeled all the loose crud off and then worked up to 400 grit emery paper to make that area smooth and useful as the assembly iron.
Should you follow that path, don't get into the seal area of the sector shaft with the polishing.
Did you count the balls, there are 44 of them. (just in case you find your-self crawling around on the shop floor with magnet).
You're the best! Yes, that's the one I missed. I'm concerned that if I try to remove that teflon ring now I'll bugger it up and be SOL. Will that be a failure to just leave it as it is?
I'm certain I got the preload right. There was already a score mark for alignment so I just used that. I ended up using a nail set as my punch to turn it. I was careful not to scratch anything with it. I put a little ATF on the threads to make it easier, drove it in a little, backed it off to lube the threads, drove it in again. This made it easier. A brass punch set is now on my purchase list.
I haven't gotten to the pitman arm exit area yet, so I've still got a chance to get that right.
BTW, the process that finally worked for me on the bearings was this: I used my pitman arm puller as a cradle to rest the piston on. It was just the right size to point the whole thing slightly down and stabilize it while I twisted and jiggled the screw shaft and inserted the bearings. I moved the bearings into a container I had used to catch some overflow ATF, so they were lubed in ATF. Not sure if that made the difference or not, but as soon as I did this it was easy, like butter. I twisted it into position so it was almost one twist past the first inlet hole. I'd drop a ball, twist and jiggle. As it progressed I covered the other hole with my thumb to prevent them from recirculating back up. It got to the point I could get 3 or more in a time, twist and jiggle, back it up a little, do it again. Once I figured it out it took about 5 minutes. Yes, I recounted the bearings after every attempt prior to this. If I had to unload and start again I did it over a magnetic dish to prevent them from bouncing away. Unless one got away during this process I had 44. Thanks for the reminder though.
This group has been invaluable in this! I wouldn't have tried it without you! Thanks.
The Teflon ring will come out no problem with a plastic fid. The failure will be a leak passed the end because the old o-ring is hardened and won't seal as well.
- Thread starter
- #29
1st: advice. Don't pause for 10 days during the rebuild. Memory gets foggy.
2nd: I'm glad I went back in after teflon seal. The o-ring at the base by the preload had gotten pinched and was shaved off. I had to replace it.
3rd: I don't understand ironing the teflon seal at the sector shaft end. I have the o-ring, then the teflon seal just fits loosely in the space. It's the same size as what I removed, but I can't remember nor figure out what it should be "ironed" to! Any help?
2nd: I'm glad I went back in after teflon seal. The o-ring at the base by the preload had gotten pinched and was shaved off. I had to replace it.
3rd: I don't understand ironing the teflon seal at the sector shaft end. I have the o-ring, then the teflon seal just fits loosely in the space. It's the same size as what I removed, but I can't remember nor figure out what it should be "ironed" to! Any help?
This is the best advice for any sort of detail work. I've got my 80 torn apart right now and it's always difficult remembering things after taking a few days off.
- Thread starter
- #31
Why can't I get the flare nut threads to catch?? This is killin' me! I'm almost there!!
If I am not mistaken, a new OEM 44110-60212 Steering Box will have the 105 sector shaft in it, you’ll just need the 105 pitman arm.
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
I finally installed my rebuilt box with the 105 shaft upgrade today. No more leak and no more groan when turning.
105 box by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
105 box by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
- Thread starter
- #34
I rebuilt mine, but is there a trick to getting the low pressure flare nut to seat so that I can thread it? I spent 45 minutes twisting that thing and can't get it to thread!
Compatible, but see below regarding the pitman arm.
Looks like that's right, here's a diagram of the steering boxes available for a 105, and here's a diagram of the individual parts, the 44110-60212 (105 series 2005+) includes the upgraded 44111-60060 sector shaft and calls for the 45411-60360 pitman arm . If you want the complete unit, then along with the box and pitman arm you need the nut and washer for the pitman arm, but the part number for those is the same across all the boxes so your original one will swap over.
If you're just looking for the parts to upgrade your box it's worth noting that the 2004 and earlier 105 used the same sector shaft and pitman arm as the 80 series did, so when ordering make sure you get the 2005+ parts, or use the part numbers above. You may also want the sector shaft adjusting screw (45357-60030) and nut (44142-60020) if you don't want to remove and re-use your original, which is staked in.
For comparison and so I can find it again, here's the parts diagram for the 80 series box.
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Got a pic? Might jog my memory.
- Thread starter
- #37
I'll get one tomorrow in better light.
lumbee1
Native American
Nope. It's just a b*tch. I did the same and eventually the leading threads caught and I was able to thread it in. Both high and low pressure nuts gave me fits.
If you're referring to the lines going to the pump and the cooler, it's all about the angle. You may want to make sure the threads aren't boogered, but that style of fitting is very temperamental about being lined up just right. I don't recall having any major issues with the PS box, but brake lines have been known to frustrate me pretty good. Whatever you do, make sure they are threaded correctly before applying tools.
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
They can be tricky. It's all about getting them aligned. I found it helped to use a screwdriver as a lever to keep light downward pressure on the line.
