Power bleeder with speed bleeders (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Rwhat
- Start date
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I don't see why not. A speed bleeder is simply a check valve. I suppose it would also depend on what pressure you're using on the master an what the release value is on the speeed bleeders.
The brand of Speed bleeders I used would not seat properly in the rear calipers, the front were OK. Here's a photo of three bleed screws; the original Toyota part on the left, a new Toyota replacement in the middle, and a Speed bleeder on the right. Note that the OEM bleed screws have a shorter blunted tip and the Speed bleeder has a pointed tip; that extra half millimeter prevented the Speed bleeder from seating all the way in the rear calipers only. I ended up using OEM style bleed screws for the rear calipers but probably could have just filed off the tip of the Speed bleeder and used that. Another small thing; with this Speed bleeder due to the nut part being situated lower than the Toyota bleed screw your wrench will not clear a bolt on the caliper so you make a small turn, reposition the wrench, turn some more, etc. A small socket may work better. IME the cheapo one-man bleeder bottle worked well.
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- Thread starter
- #4
I have them installed, they seem to work good. I'm just having the same problem as everyone else with spongy brakes. I was going to try and use a vaccume bleeder. I was hoping the vacuum would have enough suction to overcome the check valve in the speed bleeder.
Rwhat: the point I was trying to make is that with Speed bleeders due to the pointed tip you may never get a tight seal on the rear calipers. Unless my OEM calipers are different from yours, the speed bleeders never would completely seat in the rear, also assuming they are the same style/model of Speed bleeder shown in the photos above. I was able to bleed the front calipers with Speed bleeders no problem, just hooked up a hose to them draining to a container, and used the one man bottle for the brake proportioning valve and the rear calipers. IME the most important thing is to follow the proper bleeding sequence starting with the brake proportioning valve.
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Uncle Grumpy
SILVER Star
The Speed Bleeders look shorter? Are you sure they were bottoming out and not just not sealing incorrectly?
They look shorter because the nut part that you use to tighten them is lower down on the screw and the threaded section is shorter. IIRC they were almost the same overall length. If you look closely at the used Toyota bleed screw you can see that only about half of the threaded section is used, the rest just gets rusty. The problem I ran into is the shape of the tip as discussed above.
Uncle Grumpy
SILVER Star
I bought some a while but haven't installed them yet. Good things to look out for.
Kernal, those are too short. That's your problem. Pin head, wrong way to bleed brakes. That technique will make tons of little bubbles.
Yes, it does make tons of bubbles: all of them will be outside of your brake system, which is the point of bleeding them.
I have bled over a thousand brake jobs that way and it gets the job done fast and reliably.
The other ways using gizmos might get some easy jobs done, but it won't get the difficult ones done and it will take longer to get the gizmos out and set up that it takes to bleed brakes properly.
That's exactly wrong. I hope none of those people died. No they won't be outside of your brake system, they are harder to remove and will re-group in to larger bubbles after the job is done.
I don't mean to be disagreeable, but that is just BS. You don't know what you are talking about.
The idea of pressing hard on the line prior to loosening the bleeder is to compress the air bubble (make it smaller) so it will travel through the line as a whole more readily.
At least that is my understanding
At least that is my understanding
It's basic knowledge & is not recommended to rapidly pump when bleeding. It's recommended to use long complete strokes.
who is saying to do that?
- Thread starter
- #18
NLXTACY
Wits' End
^ what do you use to muffle the crying? 
