Power bleeder with speed bleeders (1 Viewer)

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I never rapidly pump when bleeding. Always shut off the flow before the spurting is finished.
 
The brand of Speed bleeders I used would not seat properly in the rear calipers, the front were OK. Here's a photo of three bleed screws; the original Toyota part on the left, a new Toyota replacement in the middle, and a Speed bleeder on the right. Note that the OEM bleed screws have a shorter blunted tip and the Speed bleeder has a pointed tip; that extra half millimeter prevented the Speed bleeder from seating all the way in the rear calipers only. I ended up using OEM style bleed screws for the rear calipers but probably could have just filed off the tip of the Speed bleeder and used that. Another small thing; with this Speed bleeder due to the nut part being situated lower than the Toyota bleed screw your wrench will not clear a bolt on the caliper so you make a small turn, reposition the wrench, turn some more, etc. A small socket may work better. IME the cheapo one-man bleeder bottle worked well.

I agree that the Speed Bleeder did not work with my rear calipers also.
 
I've got a pressure bleeder for my audi and our old race car but it has a screw adapter for the master res. What do you use to make it work on the 80's? / How did you make your's?
 
I've got a pressure bleeder for my audi and our old race car but it has a screw adapter for the master res. What do you use to make it work on the 80's? / How did you make your's?

I ended up just buying this kit. #1101 I don't think I paid $30 for it tho. Mostly all I work on are Toyotas and Subarus so it was worth the investment. No worry about ABS air bubbles either.

Someone with the right ingenuity could make one for half the cost im sure.

1101 Round Universal Adapter
 
And I just made my own pressure tank from an ace hardware garden sprayer.
 
I've got a pressure bleeder for my audi and our old race car but it has a screw adapter for the master res. What do you use to make it work on the 80's? / How did you make your's?

I have been using Motive for over 10 years for racing, when you really need to get all the fluid out and replace it nothing is easier or faster. Specially when you swap between blue and yellow fluids, easy to validate the old fluid is out.
Anyways, for the 80, the only way I was able to get a good seal is with the universal kit mentioned above, but not using the chain, it would never seal. So I use zip ties, worked every time on Toyota and Honda reservoirs.

For air that can get trapped in some ABS systems, if you can't actuate the system with a computer, then a Phoenix reverse bleeder works great. You can see bubbles coming up on the reservoir if thats the problem.
 
And I just made my own pressure tank from an ace hardware garden sprayer.

What did you use as a cap for the reservoir?

I have been using Motive for over 10 years for racing, when you really need to get all the fluid out and replace it nothing is easier or faster. Specially when you swap between blue and yellow fluids, easy to validate the old fluid is out.
Anyways, for the 80, the only way I was able to get a good seal is with the universal kit mentioned above, but not using the chain, it would never seal. So I use zip ties, worked every time on Toyota and Honda reservoirs.

For air that can get trapped in some ABS systems, if you can't actuate the system with a computer, then a Phoenix reverse bleeder works great. You can see bubbles coming up on the reservoir if thats the problem.

I wish it was easier to find Blue... something about how the government thought people were more likely to drink it because it looks like blueberry juice....... But also the properties of blue isn't as good as yellow

And I don't need to worry about ABS, I actuated that whole unit clear out of my rig.
 
It's easy to find, but I was referring to racing fluid, ATE 200 DOT4 like this ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid, NAPA used to carry it but was more expensive. When I got my 80, I ran 2 liters of regular Toyota yellow. The old fluid came out first black, then yellow, then black, then solid clean yellow like apple juice from the rear right caliper bleeder. The reservoir may stay stained dark from years of neglect.

Later on, when I replaced my front calipers, I just used the pedal pump method as the very little dripped out by clamping the rubber hose prior to removal. Like others mentioned, slow complete pedal pumps work.
 
We never used a power bleeder at the commercial auto repair shop I worked at that did an average of 6 brake jobs a day because:

1. They take too long to set up and time is money.

2. Sometimes they pop off and spray brake fluid on the customer's paint job requiring a $2000 paint job.
 
I've never used one either, but here is another cap that may work to those who want to:

http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eB...5952&category=35625&pm=1&ds=0&t=1479265389954

IMG_3047.PNG
 

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