All examples shown are truly beautiful, enjoyed looking at them.
Thanks, Ron
Thanks, Ron
Powder Coat a frame?
- Thread starter Chachie
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One option is you're wanting an effective barrier/protection from oxidation is to prep and spray your frame with a zinc chromate primer from the marine and aviation industry and then with a good rust-preventative paint of your liking or a product such as POR-15. Would be cheaper than the $500 powdercoat option but it seems people are full throttle powdercoating everything they can get their hands on these days.
Carry on
Carry on
my frame is 35 years old, no way in hell has the frame been, or will have a chance to rot through.....ask yorurself this.....how did the Japs spray the inside of the frame.....just p/c it and enjoy it till we're all dead.
hindsight said:
Nice colour. Same as mine. 6L4?
HJ47 said:
If you are going to drive in the snow, hit dip galvinising like Roman did to his 78 is the ultimate.
FYI, Sure you didn't mean it...but you could really offend some using that term.
Major Nelson said:
Then I hope those offended would have the class not to call attention to it, read it as intended and move on.
I went the route of being courteous to call it out nicely instead of having them make the mistake in the wrong environment. Chill
The frames are actually painted on the inside. I assumed they were dipped. Dip lines were used extensively in industries as an alternative to electrostatic painting. A lot of leaf springs are still dipped.
Usually they are stacked on pallets and dipped pallet and all. I have a had a lot of black painted pallets
pass through with large spring orders.
Usually they are stacked on pallets and dipped pallet and all. I have a had a lot of black painted pallets
pass through with large spring orders.
I agree that paint is cheap and easy to touch up!
Powder coat is awesome but a pain if it ever gets Fubarred!
Powder coat is awesome but a pain if it ever gets Fubarred!
I was thinking more of the 60 frame, seen alot of them rot out. You're right though, finish it the way you want and move on. the body will rust away long before a frame will, after any kind of treatment to it.
I powder coat for a living, though not frames. it is a electrostatic adhesion process. metal is negative, powder is positive, plain and simple. Powder coming out of the gun is heading for the closest metal. Corners and bends do tend to attract more powder and "puddle". I would think it would be difficult to spray inside a boxed frame and would bet there are areas that are missed or very thinnly coated. Touching up areas are just rattle canned, if the thicknesses don't match, on a frame for a 40, you need a show car. I have not decided for sure, but I am leaning towards, Eastwood inside frame and painting the outside.
agree, the corners, any rust pimples (or in this case dimples) are a challenge for PC.
there are downsides to any treatment be it POR, PC, galv or regular paint.
here is the way i look at it, you don't get stone chips inside a frame, the stone chips are bottom outside near the wheels. properly applied PC is amazing for adhesion and durability. the inside of the frame sees mud and water, salt and chemical attack.
properly sand blast the frame
properly PC the frame
go through and touch up any areas that you are concerned about, the inside corners needs to be inspected closely
then before you assemble anything get it Krowned properly.
after that if you play in the mud or drive in the salt regions makes sure every spring to wash out the frame and get the frame re-Krowned every august.
this way your investment will last.
as a PC tech, i am sure you have seen s*** PC jobs with no prep to the raw steel and properly done jobs and the difference in durability.
there are downsides to any treatment be it POR, PC, galv or regular paint.
here is the way i look at it, you don't get stone chips inside a frame, the stone chips are bottom outside near the wheels. properly applied PC is amazing for adhesion and durability. the inside of the frame sees mud and water, salt and chemical attack.
properly sand blast the frame
properly PC the frame
go through and touch up any areas that you are concerned about, the inside corners needs to be inspected closely
then before you assemble anything get it Krowned properly.
after that if you play in the mud or drive in the salt regions makes sure every spring to wash out the frame and get the frame re-Krowned every august.
this way your investment will last.
as a PC tech, i am sure you have seen s*** PC jobs with no prep to the raw steel and properly done jobs and the difference in durability.
Crushers,
What is this " Krowned " you speak of. A wax spray?
What is this " Krowned " you speak of. A wax spray?
yah, a glorified penetrating wax spray. if applied properly in warm to hot weather then it really does a great job of getting into the seams or overlap metal areas.
if applied in cool or cold, it is a waste of time and money.
hence the recommendation to apply in Aug ... in this part of the world.
if applied in cool or cold, it is a waste of time and money.
hence the recommendation to apply in Aug ... in this part of the world.
Crusher, it is ALL about the prep, paint or powder coat over rust is not stopping it! We use a three step part washer on all our coatings. We have a 800' spray line, not a batch oven. Powder adds 2-4 mils per side of a hole, bore it slightly to allow for that. If that is not possible then we use silicone plugs or tape to mask areas, because the parts are going thru a 410°-430° oven for drying and curing for 30 minutes.
Crushers - I just picked up a project with a PC frame that has slight chipping. Is there a way to properly fix this?