Powder Coat a frame?

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PC vs. paint vs. Galv

I really think that there is not one right answer. I really think it depends on what you plan on doing with the vehicle. I think both can be patched up when it comes to that, and al will last in proportion to the effort/money invested.

Like others have mentioned, effort matters when it comes to paint. Prep and patience are key for high quality paint. If that is you, go for it.

Galvanization is a treatment, and like all other treatments, if you grind on it, you will erase that local treatment. So if you go this route, I would say that you had better have already mocked up your whole vehicle prior, and know that everything fits before you spend the money on this.

PC looks good, and is the instant gratification method in my mind. If I have a part that I am dreading on wire brushing, sanding on for the next month, then you can bet I am gonna powder coat it. However, with that being said, I am not a HC off-roader. If I was, and I wanted to keep it looking nice underneath, I would consider paint, probably. Just to keep the underside from looking like a patchwork quitlt of different finishes.

For me, PC is best. I live in DFW area, so I am not in an FJ40 indiginous environment. I get offroad three to four times a year in local areas, or in Colorado or Moab. Nothing extreme though. I have spent too much time to roll it. But I have put a nice fore-aft crease in my Corbeau seats from time to time. :)

My .02

-Chris
 
crushers said:
who told you that you can't sand the scratch and paint over it? or is this a personal assumption?

once again, properly applied PC does resist stone chips and scratches better than regular paint but anything, including glav, can get gouged to the point of rust. galv is better for resisting rust in the gouges.

i keep hearing that the PC allows rust to bleed under the paint (think cancer) but properly applied PC WILL NOT allow this to happen. it is bonded to the metal.
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The key word is easier to spot repair. I'm not saying it can't be done. I thought of pc'ing the sliders on my 40, but with the amount of abuse they've taken I'm glad I can just spray bomb 'em and they look fine. It is difficult to blend paint into pc without a noticable weight line, or gloss or color mismatch.

A word about your last thought here: tell that bonding thing to the Kaymar bumper on my LX450. It creeped all under that thing. It was a s*** pc job, and matching the black was hopeless. I took the gas can arm off and sanded the entire m-effer just to ensure it didn't look like total s***. The pc was flaking off that thing everywhere.

Now the stuff on my 40 that I ground, sanded, zincphosphated, zerorusted and top coated with chassis black still looks good 11 years on. The black is a bit chalky in spots, but a quick wipe, sand and spray and it looks great. Easy peasy.
 
and THAT is the main reason for the dislike of many towards PC, they see a s*** job and blanket statement "PC is s***" ...

on the HZJ40 build the customer wanted to use the Manafree ready build bumpers. these came in already PC which was supposed to save time and money but i had not even taken them out of the box. i cut the box and carefully cut the bubble wrap protection to inspect the bumper and associated parts. the PC was already chiping off in chunks the size of my thumb nail. turns out MAF suppliers doesn't prep the steel, they just weld, grind, spray, shove in the oven and package it up.
when he contacted MAF the twit on the other end said "these are sold to an off road crowd, it is what it is".
so we ended up sand blasting the crap off back to bare steel and PC properly.

try not to get the idea that i think that PC is the be all end all, i don't. but. if done right it is the best bang for the buck out there for longevity, the ability to touch up (lately i have been taking a fresh piece of PC steel in for a computor color match for touch up paint and works REAL well), instant (well within an hour) use-ability.

cheers
 
I agree with you that pc has its place. I love it for certain things, but my personal preference is to not pc parts that will get gouged or scraped with regularity. On my FJ40, that includes the frame and sliders.
 
crushers said:
so, you actually think that paint will stand up to rocks better than PC?
i disagree completely.
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No that is not what I think or was saying. As the dudes who posted after me said, it is simply easier to touch up.

The RB, maybe nearly as good to chipping as PC. Not sure, I would have to try to chip both to know for sure. Like I say, I beat on the RB with a hammer and it wouldn't chip, albeit on wood.

And like has also been said, it is a personal preference thing. I am/was just adding info to the thread, with some opinions mixed in for added spice!

:cheers:
 
no offence intended, i was just asking a question and posting my view.
 
FJROSS said:
I have done several frames for muscle cars that I restored and they have held up fine over the last 13 years. This being said, these are cars that never see rain and are not every day drivers. The coating is much more durable that paint as far as scratching and abrasion. Be aware that alterations (grinding/welding) after the frame is coated has to repaired and blended in with paint witch is difficult do to the thickness of the powder coat. So far the only repairs I've needed have been to the bottom of he Cobra frame with a small artist brush where it bottoms out every once in a while. Here in North Jersey they get $700 to blast and coat a frame so that is a good deal. It all depends on how you plan on using your rig.
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Do you know any good frame galvanizing shops in North Jersey? I think the best route for my FJ-60 frame would be galvanizing and P/C. Where do you get your frames P/C?

Thanks,
Zack
 
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