Potentially totaled FZJ80; looking for advice

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Your only path here is to accept a check and keep the truck. They are never going to come close to $18k for the truck no matter what you say. No matter what else happens, the parts (or selling the whole truck) will net you easily twice as much as they are offering you for it, so you should plan on keeping it.

I'm not by any stretch telling you not to fight for more, but be prepared to be disappointed. $10k is a pretty good offer for a 20+year old suv.

Around here, if the title doesn't change hands then the 'salvage' label isn't applied. You should investigate the policy of your area.

Get some estimates to repair it. You may find that you can get it fixed for less than the settlement. Body shops tend to give good discounts for cash.

Next time, and for anyone else who thinks their truck is worth $$$, get a declared value policy.
 
Next time, and for anyone else who thinks their truck is worth $$$, get a declared value policy.
Just as an FYI, alot of Insurance companys that offer declared value, can, and do place limits of use, and miles driven per year on those cars. Plus many also require you to keep the car, or truck parked inside a locked garage, no parking in a carport, or on the streeet allowed when not in use. Here's a link to one of the better declared value companys.
Modified Car, Street Rod, Hot Rod, Replica & Muscle Car Insurance | Hagerty Insurance
 
I'm going to hire an appraiser to have the insurance company reconsider their initial offer. It's my right per CA state law. I'll get it better than new if I can keep the title clean. I have an awesome shop that would do the work. All OEM parts. I'm even thinking about paying out of pocket just so I can complete all the awesome mods I had planned for it asap. But there's a real possibility that once a claim is made and assessed, it must be reported and paid out asis. Can't wait to ring the awesome State Farm call center agent #324241431 again. Someday very soon it'll be an emotionless robot AI agent to continue to increase margins by decreasing opex. Sweet.

I'm learning that title laws vary some state by state with CA being one of the strictest in the country. Even the term salvage title doesn't apply in my case. It'll end up being a rebuilt title and I do not want to deal with a rebuilt title; especially the process to get one here or the anticipated cognitive dissonance having to sell not just the truck but the injustice of the situation. It narrows the market audience considerably.

It's borderline tragic that given condition and history my 80 is facing the prospect of being undeservedly cast aside unto a world of outcasts by some megacorp insurance algorithm. They would repair it if going by true market value.

Bright side is I'm learning from this experience. I'll be better prepared. Anyone got any leads to a concours clean '97 LX 450 in Socal? :) Cash in hand! Trustworthy guy!
 
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be prepared to be disappointed. $10k is a pretty good offer for a 20+year old suv.

.

The moment the accident happened, I was awash in disappointment.

$10K is not a pretty good offer for my fzj80.
 
I think you are jumping the gun a little bit. Just hold on and wait a bit. I think the better course of action might not be to push them for more money with an assessor but to get the cost of the repairs down. I would have a few other shops do quotes and I know in most places it is a percentage of the value of the car that determines if it is a total loss. In California though it is a TNF, TLF is the "total loss formula": cost of repairs plus scrap value must equal the pre-accident value of the car. So if you can get the cost of the repairs down you might have a better chance.

Because there is no way there is that much damage there. New hood, new fender, new bumper, and because of the age, the parts will likely be used which brings the cost down even further.
 
I think you are jumping the gun a little bit. Just hold on and wait a bit. I think the better course of action might not be to push them for more money with an assessor but to get the cost of the repairs down. I would have a few other shops do quotes and I know in most places it is a percentage of the value of the car that determines if it is a total loss. In California though it is a TNF, TLF is the "total loss formula": cost of repairs plus scrap value must equal the pre-accident value of the car. So if you can get the cost of the repairs down you might have a better chance.

Because there is no way there is that much damage there. New hood, new fender, new bumper, and because of the age, the parts will likely be used which brings the cost down even further.

While I *appreciate* your suggestions, I have zero interest in spending time/energy + towing costs to drag my 80 around Socal (the republic of) to shops I don't know or trust to potentially save a couple thousand here and there on the invoice. The peace of mind and elimination of variables is worth way more to me than the money at this point. Marginal gains, if any, to be had. Net loss in my head.
 
Because there is no way there is that much damage there. New hood, new fender, new bumper, and because of the age, the parts will likely be used which brings the cost down even further.

I hope you're right, Scott! I really want to keep moving forward with this lx.
 
Well if you aren't willing to have other shop's quote the work you are at the mercy of State Farms claim. Do you know what they claimed it would cost to fix it and what they are saying scrap cost is? Those two variables seem pretty important.

If the formula they are using is:

Vehicle value = Cost to fix + Scrap cost

$9933.00 = $X.XX + $X.XX

I think if you want the best chance to keep your truck and have it fixed your better off trying to reduce the right side of the equation as well as increasing the left side of the equation.

I hope you're right, Scott! I really want to keep moving forward with this lx.
 
You will find that State Farm is probably the worst company you could have insurance with period.
Rates are lower, because they are very difficult to deal with on claims. They will slow walk you also. Stretch out the time as long as possible to pay you.
They want to wait you out.

1. State Farm
2. Allstate
 
I know these things can be a major bummer. But that damage doesn't look bad at all. The hood, fender, bumper, damage multiplier(brush guard), front grill and headlights can be removed by you in an afternoon. You can get a shop to straighten the radiator/core support. You can bolt on the new parts (hood, and fender) in another afternoon. (hoods go for $250ish, fenders, $200ish, headlights $100ish a piece out here. I bet they are cheaper out near you. I bet you can buy used replacement parts for about $1000) Go to a body shop and have them respray/blend. Then go buy a real front bumper and you'll be ahead both in build an in money. I would shoot for 10K after deductions in haggling with them. With that money, you'll end up with a nice and clean finished product.

If you don't do this, you can always sell to another member here. If you do that, they will fix it and you'll see it online with mods in a few months. Don't let that happen. Get it fixed and upgrade while you're at it!
 
wow. That truck, even in it's current state, is gorgeous compared to mine.

I bought mine with a salvage title already, so when it got totaled again, I just gave them a hillbilly grin and kindly accepted the free check :hillbilly:
 
this kids, is why you remove the damage multiplier... keep it and fix it. tell the insurance company nevermind. keep it out of the system. if the frame isn't bent you should be good...
 
If you keep it, dont feel like fixing it, it gets a salvage title, ill buy it from you if you dont want it. Im in az, so shoot across the 10 with a trailer and pick it up. Salvage title toyotas dont scare me much. I need to get my wife a vehicle that isnt a pos suburban.

That being said, i have gotten double the value they originally quoted me by showing the value of similar vehicles, AND my truck was already salvage(93 pickup)!

Its a lot of work to fight state farm, but you do have options. Got more pics of the sides interior and damage?
 
Hi, Find 3 comparables and send it to one of their managers, insist , nicely for a manager. Mike
 
If you keep it, dont feel like fixing it, it gets a salvage title, ill buy it from you if you dont want it. Im in az, so shoot across the 10 with a trailer and pick it up. Salvage title toyotas dont scare me much. I need to get my wife a vehicle that isnt a pos suburban.

That being said, i have gotten double the value they originally quoted me by showing the value of similar vehicles, AND my truck was already salvage(93 pickup)!

Its a lot of work to fight state farm, but you do have options. Got more pics of the sides interior and damage?


I already called Dibs!
 
I already called Dibs!
Haha, yeah, but i wasn’t talking about “scrap price” either, its not worth 9k (in current shape) but its still worth way more than salvage prices. I doubt i would even get tge chance to buy it, even if i did he may want more than i would be willing to spend, but you never know.
 
... I do not want to deal with a salvage title. ...

So, it's a solid rig, has repairable damage, but will never be a classic car again due to the damage and resulting repairs? Sounds like a perfect wheeler, sell it to someone who wants to use it that way?

... I have zero interest in spending time/energy + towing costs to drag my 80 around Socal ...

Getting the most out of insurance companies requires effort on the insured part. If putting the effort in isn't worth it to you, accept their offer. Lets see, paid classic car price for it, for a vehicle that is not widely recognized as a classic. Planning to spend a ton more on it, making "your" value far outside of what most would value it and didn't have classic/show car insurance, this puts you in a tough spot.
 
I battled with my insurance company for 2 months over $. and they would not budge. so I got an attorney and told him what I wanted $$ . a week later I got a check for the full amt I wanted. it turned out that he was buddies with the insurance adjuster.

you sir, need to keep that guy's number.
 
You have a PM.
 

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