Post up what you pedal (7 Viewers)

[Gesose]

Nice. I broke my Niner R.O.S. SS on Xmas day. Niner will give me a 'crash replacement' frame at 60% of MSRP, so I was going to replace it with a new SIR since they don't make the ROS anymore., but would have had to buy new wheels at a minimum (new spacing) and knew I'd end up building a complete new bike and be out $4k, so I'm hard-tail less and no SS right now either, riding my geared full suspension and am getting soft.

What gear are you running, I was 32-19, did 32-18 in Bend for SS worlds a few years ago, but that too steep a gear for our trails here in Boise.

Sorry about the broken frame. I have a friend who has an older Carbon Giant road bike he has been dealing with a replacement warranty issue for over a year now - no bikes anywhere. I'd take the 60% off on the SIR, turn around and sell it and put that to a new more agro hardtail if it were me. My SIR is from 2014 with old-school xc geometry, so I overforked it and put a slackerizer (sp?) headset in it to get it a bit more modern. Geometry-wise it is now similar to the new SIR. I rode a buddies Canfield EPO witch is much more aggressive, it climbed just as well as my Niner and was way more planted and faster (fun) dh.

I'm usually a 30x18 or 19 for the local trails at Rocky Point near Portland. The climbs are usually in the 8-12% range so it is a grind (new trails we built this year are more mellow in the 5-8% range). I usually run 30x17 when I go to Bend. The photos from SS Worlds looked awesome, was super bummed I missed it.

 

[MaK92 4RnR]

On a whim, I posted my 2020 Giant Fathom 2 for sale and it sold in 2-3 days for $200 more than I paid for retail. (The bike craze is real here in Northern California) and I immediately ordered this!:

Trance X 29 2 (2021) | Men Trail bike | Giant Bicycles United States

Engineered to help you ride faster and smoother on the toughest trails, this all-new 29er has a lightweight, strong and stiff aluminum chassis with 29er-specific geometry and a plush ride thanks to its advanced new susp...

www.giant-bicycles.com

The only thing that sucks is now i'm bikeless until it arrives, which is week 27. We're only on week 16

Needless to say, i'm pretty stoked.

 

[davegonz]

Yeah, COVID pricing is real. Congrats on the Giant!

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

On a whim, I posted my 2020 Giant Fathom 2 for sale and it sold in 2-3 days for $200 more than I paid for retail. (The bike craze is real here in Northern California) and I immediately ordered this!:

Trance X 29 2 (2021) | Men Trail bike | Giant Bicycles United States

Engineered to help you ride faster and smoother on the toughest trails, this all-new 29er has a lightweight, strong and stiff aluminum chassis with 29er-specific geometry and a plush ride thanks to its advanced new susp...

www.giant-bicycles.com

The only thing that sucks is now i'm bikeless until it arrives, which is week 27. We're only on week 16

Needless to say, i'm pretty stoked.

That's why I always keep an operational hard-tail on-hand. I've never understood why people sell a bike before having the new bike in-hand. Esp. the way the last year has gone.

 

[MaK92 4RnR]

That's why I always keep an operational hard-tail on-hand. I've never understood why people sell a bike before having the new bike in-hand. Esp. the way the last year has gone.

I honestly thought I would be hanging onto my bike for a few months prior to buying this one, especially since it was priced a few hundred dollars above retail.

i'll probably just pick up a cheap hardtail in the mean time and call it good.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Surprising that it sold above retail too. Things are nuts right now. I'm stock-piling components like people stock piled T.P. last year.

I wish I'd have thrown my old A.T. ski set-up up for sale this last winter. I couldn't give it away 3 years ago, now you can't find any outdoor gear in stock.

 

[nor_cal_cyclist]

Crazy times...best I can tell I'm waiting until October for a stupid SRAM AXS 12spd chain, and a friend was quoted 500 +/- days on a new bike from Trek last week.

 

[Dizzy]

wow!

I'm using what is essentially department-store technology. And, I'm well stocked up on SRAM PC830 chains. I used to stretch beyond spec about four chains a year with expensive chain lube. Now, I get a new chain, soak it in gasoline in a mason jar for a day to get the factory lube off. Blow it dry with compressed air, or just let the gas dry on a rag in the heat. Then, I rub paraffin wax on it, either melting it in the sun, or lightly with a propane torch. I took one off that I had been using for almost half-a-year, yesterday, hung it on a nail, and measured it for stretch, it hadn't stretched a bit. It is soaking in gasoline, again. I might be crazy, but it is the soil that gets on chain lube that destroys chains.

I replaced my main sprocket with a Surly stainless steel ring with no ramps. Shifts fine. Aluminum is bad engineering for that component - you could see wear after a weekend. A worn chain ring is no good for a good chain.

I lack the strength needed to operate a regular chain connector link. So, I use a regular chain breaker. To keep some space between the outside plates and the inner link, I wrap the inner link with about four turns of teflon tape before I insert the rivet, and drive the rivet right thru the tape and all. You can remove most of the tape with a smallish flat head screwdriver, but even if it doesn't remove, the link will still be freer to rotate than if you drive the rivet with no gap between the plates and the link.

 

[nonstopbike]

I lack the strength needed to operate a regular chain connector link. So, I use a regular chain breaker. To keep some space between the outside plates and the inner link, I wrap the inner link with about four turns of teflon tape before I insert the rivet, and drive the rivet right thru the tape and all. You can remove most of the tape with a smallish flat head screwdriver, but even if it doesn't remove, the link will still be freer to rotate than if you drive the rivet with no gap between the plates and the link.

Curious if you are using quick-link pliers or how you are attempting to install the quick link.

Sounds like you've got your own systems in place that are working well for you.

 

[Dizzy]

Curious if you are using quick-link pliers or how you are attempting to install the quick link.

Sounds like you've got your own systems in place that are working well for you.

I didn't know that they exist! Most of the bike shop remains a mystery because they keep it in the back, and there is no dodging the, "are you looking for something in particular?"

 

[nonstopbike]

@Dizzy
They exist, and any good shop/mechanic/salesperson should be willing and able to educate you on the process/ tools required. Now, shimano even has master links in their arsenal, and are recommending a tool when removing and installing.

The old tool-free trick to install was after cutting the chain to length, insert master link into first step of engagement, then backpedal over the top of the chainring (assuming you're attempting to connect below the chainring/stay vs. over top). Under tension between cassette and chainring, hold the rear brake (or wheel still if on the ground) and put forward pressure into the pedals (preferably driveside pedal between 12 and 4 o' clock position) for master link to fully engage. You'll hear an audible 'click' if successful. Otherwise, master link tool for the chain beneath the chainstay.

Have you ever heard of bending the chain after installing the solid pin? Basically a lateral pressing of the links that were joined at the 'male/female' ends of the chain, in order to loosen the exterior plates against the roller? Step 4 in this hyperlink. You may want to invest in a chain wear indicator as well.

Again, not trying to change your preferred methods of chain lubing etc, but trying to shed light on some ways that i've been taught in the LBS working environment over the last ~15 years.

 

[nonstopbike]

Did some cockpit adjustment and power meter/electronics work today. New grips on the flat sscx.

 

[nonstopbike]

Did some cockpit adjustment and power meter/electronics work today. New grips on the flat sscx.

photos didnt come through via mobile.

 

[gilamonster]

Just picked up this used Knolly. Sold my Kona process last year to buy a new bike, and prices got crazy! But, I've been wanting to try a knolly out for awhile now. So, can't wait to put some miles on this silver beast and start doing some upgrades.

 

[coleAK]

I didn't know that they exist! Most of the bike shop remains a mystery because they keep it in the back, and there is no dodging the, "are you looking for something in particular?"

I have my Park chain pliers in the garage but got a set of these for the pack last summer. Awesome tool, probably could be used as your only set for home use

Pack Pliers - Master Link Combo Pliers

This lightweight, packable, bicycle multi-tool serves as a tire lever, presta valve core remover, valve stem lock nut wrench, master link pliers, and storage for master links. Now that you know it exists, this tool is an essential piece of gear to carry with you for fixing your bike trailside or...

www.wolftoothcomponents.com

 

[nonstopbike]

I have my Park chain pliers in the garage but got a set of these for the pack last summer. Awesome tool, probably could be used as your only set for home use

Pack Pliers - Master Link Combo Pliers

This lightweight, packable, bicycle multi-tool serves as a tire lever, presta valve core remover, valve stem lock nut wrench, master link pliers, and storage for master links. Now that you know it exists, this tool is an essential piece of gear to carry with you for fixing your bike trailside or...

www.wolftoothcomponents.com

I've got one of these as well, anything Wolftooth is good to go!

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Thanks for the link. I need to get a set of those. I carry a mini-Leatherman for the valve stem nut and core removal and a separate set of tire levers and a keep a quick-link taped to one of my brake cables...this would kill three birds with one stone.

I'm usually not removing a quick-link trail side, but I've broken enough chains and had to remove the splayed out link add a quick link to get back home.

It doesn't matter what I do as far as lubrication goes, I only get about 600 miles out of a mtb chain before it's too stretched to continue to use. I've tried running them longer, I just end up with a broken chain trailside and cassette that doesn't like the new chain and needs replaced as well. It's cheaper to put a new chain on every 4-6 months than a chain and cassette every 8 months.

 

[davegonz]

I have a OneUp EDC tool thingamabob on my bike and need to add one of those chain tools, too.

 

[coleAK]

Was planning on a new bike this summer but still really like what I’ve been on. So I’m Rebuilding my 2016 Kona process 134DL. 5 summers on the Kona now decides to do a mostly rebuild. Last spring I put on the Pike ultimate in a 150 (up from 140) and new cockpit. This winter built my own wheels: DT Swiss 240s, DT brass nipples, DT competition spokes on lightbicycle EN732 carbon rims. Finished lacing them today, taped and new tires. Waiting on a rear shock, shifters, derailleur, brakes, and cassette.

 

[coleAK]

Well it’s been a good week. My shock (cane creek DB IL) that I ordered back in December arrived today so put it on as well as a new wolf tooth chainring, shimano XT 12 speed derailleur and shifter, and some new XT trail pedals. Now just waiting on my Sram X01 cassette and code RSC brakes.