POR-15

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Joined
Feb 13, 2009
Threads
12
Messages
140
Location
Martinez, GA
Several threads I've read say that POR-15 is the way to go to protect from rust. I have my interior gutted to try to do some prevention & to stop things from getting any worse. My plan is to coat the floor of the tub after wire-wheeling & sanding all the little (and not so little) rust spots. The worse spot I found was under the fuel tank, and it's not rusted through, just pretty well involved.

POR-15's online "instructions for people who don't read instructions" say that brushing is fine. Since I don't have a spray booth and am doing this in my driveway, that's how I plan on applying it.

What are your experiences with POR-15?

How much prep do I need to put into this? It seems like it's meant to be an overcoat preventative and could be put on right over rust...

Any tips for a non-painter?
 
I paint it on after piecing in new metal and also in non spray paintable surfaces which cant be sand blasted goes right over rust.You can never completly stop corrosion however POR 15 has given me very good results.You can paint over it with some primers and top coats i use OMNI.
 
Good results,but you must cover after drying with top paint it doesnt like the sun! Mike
 
POR15 works well but you have to prep.

Use their wash and metal prep.

Brushing is fine.

X2

Wire wheel or sand. Prep with their "metal ready" and paint. The stuff is self leveling, so brush marks will be gone by the time it sets up.

Couple of added thoughts:

If the finished product is exposed to sunlight, strongly consider topcoating. POR will discolor in UV light over time. I usually topcoat with a spray can when the POR becomes tacky.

You've probably heard this, but if the stuff gets on your skin, it's there for a couple weeks. Consider buying their small bottle of thinner with your order for cleanup.

jC
 
POR

POR

POR goes one nicely and smooths out great on its own. Do you really want a black interior though? and it is supposed to provide a seamless barrier to keep the rust from coming back so I think it pays to go over it with something so brush marks are not that big a deal


I remove all rust but rough the surface ---not too smooth or it wont stick well


if you really want a smooth job do this---apply with a brush and smooth out then take a foam brush and ever so lightly drag it across the brush marks at a 90 degree angle ---then leave it to flow out


OSPHO and TSP from AcE hardware will do the same job as METAL PREP and AQUA clean from POR


For my tub I used POR on bare metal -2 coats
covered that with POR top caoat primer--allows compatability with any top coat
2 coats of single stage polyurethane
then 2 coats of DURABAK

on the frame I used Rust bullet and POR 15 Chassis Coat and on the bottom of the tub I used POR 15 and CHassis coat

For inside the fenders and fender wells, hood aprons, under the hood--just por 15
 
covered that with POR top caoat primer--allows compatability with any top coat

Can we put any king of paint on a POR15 painted surface ?

I mean ... directly without any preparation, without POR primer ?
 
I read your question but don't understand it. Can you explain it again?

Just as Cirbo states. The surface must be tacky not dry. In order for the paint to properly adhere. The product needs to have rust from my understanding in order to seal the steel for CC. Well ventilated area. Easier to brush on but the stuff stinks bad.


Tips:

- Buy some latex gloves and especially try to use a drill to punch the side out and pour as you need. Take tape and cover the hole after use or you will be throwing the whole can out. I didn't so that and bought more product than I needed. Got the top from the paint store. Works great.

- Buy cheap brushes and throw them out after.

- I got the stuff on my skin and it took about 2 days to get it off. It must be my greasy Italian skin but it never took that long like what others have experienced.
 
compatability

AH good idea on the punch and pour! Yes the stuff goes off with moisture and you can wind up wasting a lot


POR recommends using their top coat primer before applying any other paint over the POR. Their chassis black will go straight over the POR15. I suspect it would be compatible with poly but for the price of the primer:meh:

Most people go over while still tacky but you can rough it up and apply over top if time does not allow ---according to the manuf
 
Well, for better or worse, it's done. It really could use another coat in most places; it looks like there were contaminants in places as the por pulled back. 2 things though: I'm almost out of the stuff, and I think I'd rather watch it and see how long it takes for the first hints of corrosion to return.

Thanks for the hints, and I'll document how long it lasts!
March '09 001.webp
March '09 025.webp
 
Did you brush it on and then you saw the underneath coming thru? It looks like fisheye. That means that you have a contaminant on top of the paint prior to painting on the por15. Did you wipe it down with a grease remover like dx330? Armorall is abou the worst. The silicone from it is difficult to remove except for dx330 and you have to go over it a few times 2-3 with new rags each time then wipe it off.

Got a closer shot of the floor? Right in front will do.
 
That tub is pristine. I would have just sanded, primed and painted. Maybe POR the gas tank area only...
I wish my tub was in that good of shape...
 
Just because it says POR 15 on the can......doesnt mean you have to POUR it on there.........






















just messing with you...Good job :)
 
final finish?

dont know what you plan for a final finish but if you sand and feather the fish eyes and primer it, it may come out looking good

One way for sure is go over it with durabak or another bed liner product

i'll post the pics showing the evolution with mine

POR
TOP COAT PRIMER
Single Stage POLY
Finally---topped off with durabak using a roller
backinpor15.webp
backinprimer.webp
back in poly.webp
 
whoops

oops here's the poly before the durabak. The durabak would hide those fisheyes though. Personally I think the DURABAK would stick to the POR cause it will stick to wood, concrete, skin, just about anything

Also the pic of the front showing the poly and the durabak


it's your work and $ but the primer's not a big cost
prettyinpoly.webp
frontdurabak.webp
 
Yeah, all the fisheyes are from contaminants: I had to do it in my driveway and it's pollen season in Georgia.

Greek, you're right; the tub was in pretty good shape, other than a crack under the driver's seat mount that I was able to weld up pretty well. There's also small (~1") rust-thru on both ends of the sill and a crack about 8" long on the right hand side in the contour of the sill. I tried to weld this and it just cooked straight through and exposed more rust underneath, even on my welder's lowest setting.

BSmith; your's looks awesome; I wish I had that sort of talent/time/money. As it is, this project was the result of my OCD getting the best of me. Future plans are to duraback/lineX/rinoline/whatever the whole thing; inside and out.

I'm already easily distracted by small shiny objects, so my cruiser needs as little shine as possible! This project was just a stop-gap measure until I can gather the duckies for a full treatment. Just did it because I had the tunnel off for a clutch job.
 
I know what you mean by getting distracted. I POR 15'd my tank resorvoir? and ended up doing the whole damned floor and it didn't need it at all. Good thing I ran out before I got to my trailer... One tip and I believe it was mentioned earlier. Wear Gloves, Latex or whatever, this stuff does not come off easily....
 

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