Poll: Orion or Toybox or... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter FJBen
- Start date
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alright, so who has a splitcase they want to get rid of?
malphrus
malphrus
I have a friend that has a heep that has a 4.0 teralow. He wishes that the had an intermediate gear. He finds himself wheel'n in 3rd for most of the trip. He then wishes he was a little lower on the tech stuff. He is around 76:1,
Hence my vote for the toy box, and yes in a 40.
Hence my vote for the toy box, and yes in a 40.
Last edited:
Poser said:How bad do you want one?
how bad do you want me to want one?
malphrus
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Desertdave said:
Ben,
This is what my buddy selling his 40 w/ the 203 doubler was saying about 4.7:1 in the snow - too low and you are out of gears. Need for intermediate low...
treerootCO
Where are my keys?!
Just in case nobody noticed. You can shift from 1st to 2nd even 3rd and 4th and the gear ratios get higher
4 low and 4 high as well
Low is great but the best thing about the Orion is now I use all 4 gears while wheeling. Before it was 1st 2nd, 1st 2nd, 1st 2nd...
http://www.root45.com/SM465Orion/Gears.htm
4 low and 4 high as well
Low is great but the best thing about the Orion is now I use all 4 gears while wheeling. Before it was 1st 2nd, 1st 2nd, 1st 2nd...
http://www.root45.com/SM465Orion/Gears.htm
phlyfish said:
You need to remeber that a F/2F will run alot slower than what ever engin that heep has. Mine will bog down to 200 rpm, maybe a little lower. Than has to be at least twice as low as that heep engin will go, I have seen the 4.0s and it seems like jeepers need to keep them up at least to 600 rpm to keep em going, and if it is 4 banger, forget about it, 1G for real
bustanutley said:
Not apples to apples....
This is a FI issue...not a jeep issue....computer needs triggering so many times a certian specified time, or fuel shuts off...would, and does happen on FI Land Cruiser engines...been there, done that.
My Land Crusier will pull well under this RPM also....beauty of a well adjusted carb on a flat surface...
Good luck!
-Steve
treerootCO
Where are my keys?!
That's just great Poser Now I have to figure out how to get around that before I can fuel inject my 2F. 
Now I have to figure out how to get around that before I can fuel inject my 2F. 
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
You'll be happy with either... but I vote Orion... it's sooo simple... the toybox will hundred dollar you to death.
bustanutley said:
Not in my world baby.
My little 4 banger can drop real low and keep on chugging. I've even had it to 3rd gear 4 lo. Still a tad fast for these low rangers like Treeroot and Nutley. 
ah, the wonderful world of computers, someday maybe I'll jump on that boat and learn how this mysterious EFI works, soon I hope. Driving on my top is going to be fun
Is there anyway to get around these issues? Sorry if I"m ignorant on this subject, just have yet to deal with FI
diesels are neat
I'm voting toybox. It's going between a 1KZ-TE/with Hilux Surf slushbox and then backed up by a splitcase. I'm gonna go with the higher range toybox due to it being behind the auto tranny. Soon to be the proud owner of a KZJ-45.
"You'll be happy with either... but I vote Orion... it's sooo simple... the toybox will hundred dollar you to death"
Huh? I"m sorry I don't quite understand..
Orion $1505 with 4:1 on their website.
TOybox $1325 with 2.28 gears and $1799 with 4.7 gears. Even cheaper if you assemble it yourself..
so..
TOybox math
h42 3.555 X 2.28 X 1.959 X 4.11= 65.17 divided by cost $20.33 per ratio
h42 3.555 X 4.7 X 1.959 X 4.11= 134.52 divided by cost $13 per ratio
Orion
H42 3.555 X 4.0 X 4.11= 58.44 Divided by cost = $25.75 per ratio
Now.. The kicker is you have to re-do driveshafts.. REally not a big deal, I'd add about $200-$300 if you have to take them into a shop.. But I'd only take the rear in and sleeve the front. Crossmember etc is hard if you can't fab but Marlin makes one now he sells..
My math shows that the gearing in the toybox vs the orion is approx the same price.. Unless you go 4.7.. Which for the $ isn't that big of a cost difference.. Course you can always add the 4.7 gears later! for about another $400 or so..
All that being said.. I agree with Nolen.. (dang I just said that outloud?)
I would probably recommend the Orion for ease of installation and not having to do anything else to your drivetrain.. If your good with metal and not afraid of the modifications then go toybox..
Huh? I"m sorry I don't quite understand..
Orion $1505 with 4:1 on their website.
TOybox $1325 with 2.28 gears and $1799 with 4.7 gears. Even cheaper if you assemble it yourself..
so..
TOybox math
h42 3.555 X 2.28 X 1.959 X 4.11= 65.17 divided by cost $20.33 per ratio
h42 3.555 X 4.7 X 1.959 X 4.11= 134.52 divided by cost $13 per ratio
Orion
H42 3.555 X 4.0 X 4.11= 58.44 Divided by cost = $25.75 per ratio
Now.. The kicker is you have to re-do driveshafts.. REally not a big deal, I'd add about $200-$300 if you have to take them into a shop.. But I'd only take the rear in and sleeve the front. Crossmember etc is hard if you can't fab but Marlin makes one now he sells..
My math shows that the gearing in the toybox vs the orion is approx the same price.. Unless you go 4.7.. Which for the $ isn't that big of a cost difference.. Course you can always add the 4.7 gears later! for about another $400 or so..
All that being said.. I agree with Nolen.. (dang I just said that outloud?)
I would probably recommend the Orion for ease of installation and not having to do anything else to your drivetrain.. If your good with metal and not afraid of the modifications then go toybox..
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
This is turning out to be a pretty good thread!
Depends on where you wheel. I have the 4.7 Totbox with a 3 speed T case and a friend has the Orion. For most places with fairly slick rock, we both do fine with me in 2.3 or 4.7 low. In grippy places like Paragon, I can use both T cases and it's a GREAT advantage, but only at places with GREAT traction.
FJBen
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #39
Huh? I"m sorry I don't quite understand..
Orion $1505 with 4:1 on their website.
TOybox $1325 with 2.28 gears and $1799 with 4.7 gears. Even cheaper if you assemble it yourself..
so..
TOybox math
h42 3.555 X 2.28 X 1.959 X 4.11= 65.17 divided by cost $20.33 per ratio
h42 3.555 X 4.7 X 1.959 X 4.11= 134.52 divided by cost $13 per ratio
Now.. The kicker is you have to re-do driveshafts..
My math shows that the gearing in the toybox vs the orion is approx the same price.. Unless you go 4.7.. Which for the $ isn't that big of a cost difference.. Course you can always add the 4.7 gears later! for about another $400 or so..
All that being said.. I agree with Nolen.. (dang I just said that outloud?)
I would probably recommend the Orion for ease of installation and not having to do anything else to your drivetrain.. If your good with metal and not afraid of the modifications then go toybox..
Some more good points...sheesh...I'm on the fence still...lol
I was wondering about your pricing...it appears that for the 4.7 for H41/42 with 4 speed t-case...is $1,999 and $1,525 for the 2.28...
The orion is $1,495
The "kit" for the marlin crawler w/4.7 gears is 1,368 + 100 core + finding a t-case housing, t-case mount then the drivelines ~$300 So by my math...lol, you are still pushing $2000 to get the crawler in there.
I guess in the end it all comes down to usage and needs. The 2.28 doesn't seem the best because with an Orion you are almost at that. Throw and H41 in their for the cost of the crawler and you have 81:1 which is prolly more than plenty for most of dd/wheelers.
hmmm...still a lot of thinking to do..
phishtaco
Cincinnati
hijack a little....What would be the crawl ratio with an H41 and stock 4speed tcase?
