Poll on total brake failure in 100 series

[SRS15]

I've read this whole thread and now I am rethinking getting a 06-07. Though I have noted there are no 06-07's in this thread...
How concerned should I be about the brake fail issue?

 

[savirc]

I've read this whole thread and now I am rethinking getting a 06-07. Though I have noted there are no 06-07's in this thread...
How concerned should I be about the brake fail issue?

The design has not changed and its not isolated to a specific year, its a matter of age. This issue has also been noted on Tacomas, and GX trucks.

 

[Number6]

No for me. 2000 LC with 275K. Can't find anything in this area was done by the PO's

 

[UTadventures]

FWIW, 253,xxx miles on mine. Just drove it after sitting nearly three months, all front end work. Nearly drove through the back on my garage with the break pedal pushed very hard. It took three deep pushes for the stiffness to come back. Quick test drive and seems back to normal. I guess that’s good.

 

[Bovka]

Hi everyone, my UZJ100 /2003model has brake related issues recently. after about 7 times pumping the brake pedal i get warning buzzer sound in the dash, ABS, VSC OFF, HandBrake light and TRC OFF lights come on at the same time.IF i restart the car all the lights and buzzer go away... error codes from scanner are : C1256 -
accumulator low pressure, C1252 - Hydro booster pump motor and C1223 - ABS Control system malfunction... Honesly I can not affor to change master cylinder or expensive parts at the moment so I'm looking for cheaper solutions such as fixing the exact failed component in the brake system. below is a video showing the master cylinder in action after pumping brake pedal dozens time with engine off. Can someone who knows well about these issues please pin point the exact cause/failed parts so i can fix it with a littlemoney as possible.

Youtube lin to my uploaded video is : Thank you

 

[savirc]

Hi everyone, my UZJ100 /2003model has brake related issues recently. after about 7 times pumping the brake pedal i get warning buzzer sound in the dash, ABS, VSC OFF, HandBrake light and TRC OFF lights come on at the same time.IF i restart the car all the lights and buzzer go away... error codes from scanner are : C1256 -
accumulator low pressure, C1252 - Hydro booster pump motor and C1223 - ABS Control system malfunction... Honesly I can not affor to change master cylinder or expensive parts at the moment so I'm looking for cheaper solutions such as fixing the exact failed component in the brake system. below is a video showing the master cylinder in action after pumping brake pedal dozens time with engine off. Can someone who knows well about these issues please pin point the exact cause/failed parts so i can fix it with a littlemoney as possible.

Youtube lin to my uploaded video is : Thank you

That sound alone will not be enough to tell you "the exact part" there is only two parts you can buy anyway so you don't have to guess much. There is the master cylinder assembly or the electric motor/accumulator. Neither are cheap. I've had to replace both, no cheap way about it.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Looks like you are loosing pressure and its taking way too long to build up pressure which is dangerous for driving, how long does the accumulator motor run? time it.

The cheapest way possible is to get the electric motor rebuilt and that is assuming your pressure loss is not from the assembly which was my case after replacing the accumulator and motor OEM new. Even at that you are looking at a few hundred dollars. If its not the electric motor you are looking at a very expensive fix over a grand possibly over two.

 

[uHu]

Hi everyone, my UZJ100 /2003model has brake related issues recently. after about 7 times pumping the brake pedal i get warning buzzer sound in the dash, ABS, VSC OFF, HandBrake light and TRC OFF lights come on at the same time.IF i restart the car all the lights and buzzer go away... error codes from scanner are : C1256 -
accumulator low pressure, C1252 - Hydro booster pump motor and C1223 - ABS Control system malfunction...

Why would you pump the brakes 7 times?. What if you space those 7 times with 1/2 minute between each time, e.g. like in normal driving, does the pressure keep up then?
Anyhow, it sounds like the booster motor is struggling a bit. Why not open it up and check it. Clean it up, check commutator and brushes, and that power cable.

And, frequent change of fluid, with OE Toyota, and never overfilling (read the text on lid) makes all parts last longer.

 

[2001LC]

If you want to test to see if brake alarm works, pump the peddle. Otherwise you do not pump ABS brakes, during normal driving. As @uHu said.

Your DTC codes are concerning, so is color of brake fluid and the fact you've overfilled.

Read what is states on the brake reservoir for fill/topping procedure. Follow the instruction and than time how long brake booster motor pump runs when you turn on IG key.

Clear you codes, than see if they come back. Make sure you've a good battery and report all codes you see also..

Read this entire thread if you do not understand.

When making video, hold the camera in one spot. We need to see the whole master. Do this while pumping peddle 40 times with IG key off. Keep filming after IG turned on.

 

[Bovka]

Thanks a million for responding guys. English is my second language I'll do proper test when i get a chance and report back. for your information brake fluid is way above the max line when i bought it and it stays like that near the liquid cap that must be serious thing if i understand correctly?

 

[hickuptruck]

That sound alone will not be enough to tell you "the exact part" there is only two parts you can buy anyway so you don't have to guess much. There is the master cylinder assembly or the electric motor/accumulator. Neither are cheap. I've had to replace both, no cheap way about it.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Looks like you are loosing pressure and its taking way too long to build up pressure which is dangerous for driving, how long does the accumulator motor run? time it.

The cheapest way possible is to get the electric motor rebuilt and that is assuming your pressure loss is not from the assembly which was my case after replacing the accumulator and motor OEM new. Even at that you are looking at a few hundred dollars. If its not the electric motor you are looking at a very expensive fix over a grand possibly over two.

Yeah, either you can dump a few hundred into a rebuilt motor. And then find out that it doesn't solve any problems and you need a $2500 new unit. That was my case.

 

[uHu]

....for your information brake fluid is way above the max line when i bought it and it stays like that near the liquid cap that must be serious thing if i understand correctly?

Yes. If you overfill, the fluid will overflow when the pressure goes down overnight, and destroy the motor and the terminals of the power cable.
Check fluid level only when pressure is down (40 pumps with ign off).

 

[TimTX]

The “noise” was heard at 260K miles. I bit the bullet and had an entire brand new OEM assembly put in within 100 miles of first hearing it. Cost me a fortune, but I didn’t want to chance it.

I love my truck but now I have another reason to keep it...lol

 

[Coldmud]

YES and YES, - LX 2000 and LX 2006

The first LX one failed three times and the second LX one failed twice. And by fail, I mean driving it and TOTAL brake loss. Same problem every time - brake line rusts and leaks. Once I replaced a brake line and the dealer reused the mounting clips. It rusted right at the clip. Got rid of the 2000 when it failed a third time. Bought a 2006 to replace it and now it has failed twice. You would think I would have learned my lesson. I live in Ontario and put mainly highway miles with lots of winter driving. The strangest thing is the last time a line leaked was in a section that ran along the top of the firewall, well out of the way of road salt or any weather. It looked fine, other than a hole that leaked all the brake fluid from.

Definitely a problem with the steel used to make the brake lines. BTW all repairs done by the dealer with hopefully OEM parts.

 

[2001LC]

YES and YES, - LX 2000 and LX 2006

The first LX one failed three times and the second LX one failed twice. And by fail, I mean driving it and TOTAL brake loss. Same problem every time - brake line rusts and leaks. Once I replaced a brake line and the dealer reused the mounting clips. It rusted right at the clip. Got rid of the 2000 when it failed a third time. Bought a 2006 to replace it and now it has failed twice. You would think I would have learned my lesson. I live in Ontario and put mainly highway miles with lots of winter driving. The strangest thing is the last time a line leaked was in a section that ran along the top of the firewall, well out of the way of road salt or any weather. It looked fine, other than a hole that leaked all the brake fluid from.

Definitely a problem with the steel used to make the brake lines. BTW all repairs done by the dealer with hopefully OEM parts.

I'd expect brake alarm due to low fluid, before no brakes.

 

[hickuptruck]

YES and YES, - LX 2000 and LX 2006

The first LX one failed three times and the second LX one failed twice. And by fail, I mean driving it and TOTAL brake loss. Same problem every time - brake line rusts and leaks. Once I replaced a brake line and the dealer reused the mounting clips. It rusted right at the clip. Got rid of the 2000 when it failed a third time. Bought a 2006 to replace it and now it has failed twice. You would think I would have learned my lesson. I live in Ontario and put mainly highway miles with lots of winter driving. The strangest thing is the last time a line leaked was in a section that ran along the top of the firewall, well out of the way of road salt or any weather. It looked fine, other than a hole that leaked all the brake fluid from.

Definitely a problem with the steel used to make the brake lines. BTW all repairs done by the dealer with hopefully OEM parts.

So brakes failed because of rusted brake lines, and not having a M/C failure? I hope your handbrake still works because those fail far more than LC100 brakes. Its a story as old as FJ40, dissimilar metals in the hand brake crank.

 

[Bovka]

my issue has been some built up dirst and water ingress inside the actual motor unit. previous owners must have submerged the vehicle long enough in water to get inside the pump motor assembly which has tight sealing. i will report back after a while to confirm whether or not the issue comes back or not. thanks everyone for their input PS: if i pump the brake pedal super fast over 6 times whill LC100 sound an alarm and give error lights temporary until i stop pressing the pedal ? a mechanic told me its common acroos LC100 and LX470.

 

[2001LC]

my issue has been some built up dirst and water ingress inside the actual motor unit. previous owners must have submerged the vehicle long enough in water to get inside the pump motor assembly which has tight sealing. i will report back after a while to confirm whether or not the issue comes back or not. thanks everyone for their input PS: if i pump the brake pedal super fast over 6 times whill LC100 sound an alarm and give error lights temporary until i stop pressing the pedal ? a mechanic told me its common acroos LC100 and LX470.

Yes. ABS is designed to have brake peddle pressed and held, not pumped. When you pump repeatedly, you using up brake accumulator pressure faster than can be replaced. So low pressure alarm is set off. It is one way to test if alarm is working

 

[lwarden]

Yes, brake booster motor went out on my wife, total failure at about 160K IIRC on our 1999. An alarm went off and luckily she pulled over while she still had one or two brake applications. She needed a cop to help get the car out of the middle lane. Very scary for her. I ended up driving it home carefully with the handbrake and replacing the motor myself. Took 20 minutes but I was blown away by the cost, something like $850 at the time. Wonder how long this one will last....
We have had really good luck with this rig, but I have to say this shook our confidence in it. Going on strong with 250K on the clock and despite the paint and interior getting a little ratty, it's still a great car, best we've ever owned.

 

[RobE30]

98 LX470, lights came on and whee!, no brakes. Safely made it to my side yard. Hoping to work on it in the next day or so.

 

[Ravenmobile]

My 2001 with 205k had total brake failure while my daughter was driving it. She was at a toll stop just before a tunnel when the alarms and lights started going crazy. She called me while in the tunnel. I told her to pull over as soon as she gets out of the tunnel. She had to use the emergency brake to stop. Checked it out and brake line rusted through. Very dangerous, we were very lucky.