Polishing Valve Cover (i searched) (2 Viewers)

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another question. whats the piece in the top of the valve cover on the inside?

texican, why do you say never again to polishing? i know if its not clear coated in some way it wont work w/out constant repolishing, but you seem against it
 
I had mine powdercoated in the color silver sparkle.
cruiser resto 3 002.jpg
 
Wetsanding is just sanding with the sandpaper wet, keep a bucket of water with a little soap and dip the sandpaper in it and sand alittle and dunk the paper in the water again...repeat with all the grits of paper. it's messy but works real well.
 
Had to run down to the shop, shot some pix.......The last one is sitting next to a polished one, I have 4 or 5 hrs in it, about 30 minutes in the painted one.......
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This one is on a freshly rebuilt 2F going in as soon as some odds and ends arrive from Toyota........
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did you paint the polished one with a clear? im thinking powdercoating will work, but one question, the piece in the top of the valve cover on the inside will it be ok getting heated up? doesn't look like its removable.
 
i didnt read all the posts but i found a mag aluminum clear wheel coating at advance and it sticks good to everything we tried it on .i used it on some aluminum running boards and they wipe off rear nice .worked for us but may not work for you good luck
 
For polishing, I started with blue rolocs, then went to the grey ones. Then finally aluminum polish called Alum-X, that works great, but don't think it's available anymore...
 
I polished mine using sandpaper first to remove the crud then used white Tripoli followed by rouge. It was a mirror finish when I was through. I then proceeded to totally fubar it by attempting to powder coat it to make it appear to be red anodized aluminum. Story here:Engine Reassembly Page 2

I have a total of about 8 hours in the valve cover. If you value time over money, pay to have the cover polished and powder coated clear.
 
i did a little sanding last night. just a little bit of sanding cleaned up the cover alot, so i think its just gonna take some time and then ill have some shop powder coat it clear for me.
 
Save some time and paint it with Hammerite gloss aluminum, been there done that , and the Hammerite looks better............

Where does one have to go to find this stuff? Can you get it at lowes, Home Depot, True Value, etc?

If I have trouble finding this Hemmerite stuff, will the high temp aluminum engine paint that Autozone sells create a similar finish?
 
I polished mine using a big high speed buffer and wool pad using sticks of clay. Basically what my Pop used to repolish any non-clear coated aluminum on his Peterbilt. Clay can be had at high end truck stop chrome shops that specialize in show trucks.

Did it about 10 years ago - stayed shiny for several years (which is impressive considering I lived on the beach), and is just kinda dull now. Once the hard polishing is done - it's not that big a deal to repolish (like someone posted earlier on - using stuff like Mothers).

I like the clean polished look - think it's worth the effort if you're doing a complete rebuild anyways...
 
I found this site awhile back. Pretty good step by step of whats involved
aluminum polishing guide | Poleringsguide

My efforts on the engine i'm fitting to my 40. This took about a week and a half of late nights
parts before
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After. Still needs a bit of work. Few spots i'm not happy with but i'm waiting until the engine is rebuilt and ready to go back in.
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when im done im hopefully gonna get a clear lexan hood and bring it to the classic car show and show it off.

Show what off? You valve cover? Ha.


Ha



Ha, ha,







Ha, ha, ha, hee







Ha, ha, hee, hee, tee, hee, ha, ha,



















F's or 2f's should never be seen only heard.


Your better off spending your time getting your cruiser back on the road and in good mechanical shape before you go and polish the turd.

:flipoff2:

:beer::beer::beer:
 
Show what off? You valve cover? Ha.


Ha



Ha, ha,







Ha, ha, ha, hee







Ha, ha, hee, hee, tee, hee, ha, ha,



















F's or 2f's should never be seen only heard.


Your better off spending your time getting your cruiser back on the road and in good mechanical shape before you go and polish the turd.

:flipoff2:

:beer::beer::beer:


ya well you see, im taking this much time and effort for the WHOLE engine bay and vehicle, so it will be clean, and then it will be something to show off. some people take pride in what they do and like to show it off. if you dont like what im doing, i have a suggestion, dont do it and dont read about it.



anyways, a clear hood wont be for a LONG LONG time, definitely not in the budget any time in the near future, its just something else i would like to have eventually and think would be cool when going to the local classic car show.

i got about 2 spots on the cover cleaned up nice. going thru lots of sand paper, got class in a bit and will pick up much more sand paper on the way home, get some more done tonight. i have been using 400, 600, 1000, 1500 and it cleans it up really nice, i can see myself in the finish now in those 2 spots.

also, for people wet sanding, i would suggest getting bar keepers help, gets all the crap off the cover that you get on it while cleaning it up.


i do have one question tho, what can i use to get in between the letters where it says 2f toyota.
 
zoopseal only lasts about 2 years then it needs to be reapplied. I had a bunch of parts polished including the waternecks, waterpump, and valve cover. Some parts like the waternecks have air pockets in the aluminum which means that no matter how much polishing you do, they will always be present. These pits mean that you can't powdercoat them without winding up with bubbles over these holes when you bake the parts. I know from experience.

As long as the part is smooth you can clear powdercoat it without an issue.

Oh it only cost me about 400 to get a bunch of aluminum stuff polished. Well worth it considering the time, effort, and mess that comes with doing it yourself.
 
Where does one have to go to find this stuff? Can you get it at lowes, Home Depot, True Value, etc?

If I have trouble finding this Hemmerite stuff, will the high temp aluminum engine paint that Autozone sells create a similar finish?

My local no name hardware store keeps it ....... even has it in gallons, the cans are nearly $8 per can, worth every penny

Butch
 

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