Plastic vs Metal - Battle of Oil Filter Housings

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And some further drawing showing cross section of the same with the spring depressed when inserting the drain pipe per BJowett.


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As for the bypass, the Car Care Nut is wrong with his explanation, and I wish he would update the video. The coil spring has nothing to do with the bypass. It does two things, allows for some variance in oil filter height, and allows the drain flap to operate. The bypass valve is located in the base of the perforated tube, and is difficult to mess with.

Not only that, with a decent understanding of hydraulics the filter pushing up into the housing can't be a pressure relief valve in the first place. I've been skeptical of that claim since his first video warning against disturbing that spring.

Every 70 Series that has a cartridge filter equipped engine receives the aluminum cap. Every Lexus/Yamaha V8 in the F Series cars receives aluminum.

We can just close this thread now.
 
We can just close this thread now.
You would think so…

My remaining question going aluminum/light alloy and looking at the thread cross section drawing;

Can it scratch the female O-ring seal area over multiple filter changes?

While the O-ring elastomer will conform to some surface imperfections, that is something to consider.

As it happens my BMW 535d has a plastic cap with a similar thread/o ring setup. Interesting they went the same route.

Food for thought…
 
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Can it scratch the female O-ring seal area over multiple filter changes?

While the O-ring elastomer will conform to some surface imperfections, that is something to consider.

~20 oil changes for me so far with an aluminum cap and no hint of issues in this area. With the design being as it is (the external threads are mildly rounded) and the way most people seem to do their oil changes, I suspect you'd basically have to be trying to do damage for it to actually happen. Now if the cap were made of carbide or something.. Fortunately it's not.

And I can confirm VWAG and MB vehicles from the mid 00s use plastic cap as well, though both have a different o-ring format. It's more like an elliptical cross section and seals against a V area in the housing. I'm not entirely sure why they did this but think it may be to reduce spillage from the thread area past the o-ring when the cap is loosened the remaining way, as ours do.
 
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hey guys, I am shopping for a tool to remove the filter housing.. I am staying plastic.

do I need the ones with the castle wall on top of the flutes (most of them are like this) , or the blue one is ok too?

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hey guys, I am shopping for a tool to remove the filter housing.. I am staying plastic.

do I need the ones with the castle wall on top of the flutes (most of them are like this) , or the blue one is ok too?

View attachment 3625903
The one not grabbing the ribs (right one) is preferable not to brake the same. Note that a tight fit is required, which Motivx resolved in their latest version. So the one on the right may or may not be meeting that specification.
 
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The one not grabbing the ribs (right one) is preferable not to brake the same. Note that a tight fit is required, which Motivx resolved in their latest version. So the one on the right may or may not be meeting that specification.
Thanks , I ordered the motivx, they seem to claim the ribs may break on the castle designs. The blue one might work, I may order that and see which works better.
Both might get stuck with no area to pry off the filter housing.
 
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I ordered the made in Japan version. from impex Japan. It was about $30 plus shipping.

I will just keep on the shelf just in case.
 
Just did the swap. The last **** to change the oil overtorqued it so hard the filter wrench broke getting it off. (Recommendation: don’t use the square drive on the wrench. Go straight for a socket. Mine was 27mm.)
Then on the second try the fins on the housing cracked enough to let oil out.
I’m not expecting any problems with the aluminum part but we’ll see!
 
Had an issue once I ran out of the "free" oil changes from the '21. When I did my first change after, the plastic cap was really torqued on there and the tabs broke off when trying to remove. I purchased this tool to remove. It worked great and had great purchase on the OEM filter cap type.
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I put on my Jowett filter cap and am happy again. I ran the Jewett product for over 300,000 miles on my 2013 LC. I've got about 20,000 miles on the Jewett cap on my '21. It makes me happy every time I change the oil to know that I have this product on my rig.

Jowett filter cap all the way.
 
another unsolicited and shameless @bjowett plug here too. Solid upgrade IMO.
 
Had an issue once I ran out of the "free" oil changes from the '21. When I did my first change after, the plastic cap was really torqued on there and the tabs broke off when trying to remove. I purchased this tool to remove. It worked great and had great purchase on the OEM filter cap type.
View attachment 3659903

I put on my Jowett filter cap and am happy again. I ran the Jewett product for over 300,000 miles on my 2013 LC. I've got about 20,000 miles on the Jewett cap on my '21. It makes me happy every time I change the oil to know that I have this product on my rig.

Jowett filter cap all the way.

The Blue-Point (or similar) steel filter sockets are the only ones worth buying. There is a company on Amazon called “Tool Guy Republic” selling essentially the same socket as the Blue-Point, it has a chrome finish versus the satin finish of the Blue-Point and is around half the price. The 1/2” drive and steel construction are critical.
Forget the MotiveX and similar aluminum ones. Forget the stamped steel ones, as well.
 
I've got MotivX kit and have had zero issues with it. Granted, I only used the OEM filter adapter a couple times before I got the awesome @bjowett oil filter housing setup.
 
My stamped steel filter socket has worked great for probably close to 30 oil changes.
 

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