ARCHIVE Plaidwagon 100 Series Relocation Washer Fluid Tanks
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- Thread starter
- #22
The existing plastic tank is too odd shaped to be used in the new location under the hood. You would have to use the new tank that I’m making to fit that spot.
Here’s the plastic tank for a visual:
xeuxaz
SILVER Star
Incredible attention to detail. Everything fits perfectly as if OEM. The kit for wiring and plumbing was pre cut at the right lengths. Included everything needed including bolts and washers.
It’s about a 1 hour job if you’re going slow.
This truck is now ready for the Dissent bumper.
It’s about a 1 hour job if you’re going slow.
This truck is now ready for the Dissent bumper.
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- #24
Nestled safely in its new home. Thanks for dropping those kinds words on here. And man I’m jealous of that clean engine bay!Incredible attention to detail. Everything fits perfectly as if OEM. The kit for wiring and plumbing was pre cut at the right lengths. Included everything needed including bolts and washers.
It’s about a 1 hour job if you’re going slow.
This truck is now ready for the Dissent bumper.
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LCT
SILVER Star
Which Dissent front bumper are you getting? My extreme clearance front bumper has finally shipped after almost 7 months of placing the order.Incredible attention to detail. Everything fits perfectly as if OEM. The kit for wiring and plumbing was pre cut at the right lengths. Included everything needed including bolts and washers.
It’s about a 1 hour job if you’re going slow.
This truck is now ready for the Dissent bumper.
I’ll be doing the reservoir mod if the stock location interferes with 34/35” tires.
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xeuxaz
SILVER Star
Love this setup. Where do the tubes run across? In front of the radiator?
I was considering running the front windshield line up the passenger side fender and just flipping the fittings over. I did note that there are not corresponding holes in the hood and firewall on the passenger side where the tubing run clips in, though.
Necessary? No. But minutiae like this keeps me out of trouble.
I was considering running the front windshield line up the passenger side fender and just flipping the fittings over. I did note that there are not corresponding holes in the hood and firewall on the passenger side where the tubing run clips in, though.
Necessary? No. But minutiae like this keeps me out of trouble.
LCT
SILVER Star
Your lead time shouldn’t be that bad. I went with their new design, extreme clearance bumper, which took them a while to produce.
- Thread starter
- #29
You can run the hoses in front of the radiator or up and over the fan shroud. Just a matter of preference. I provide 6 feet of length for the hoses and wires in the installation kit. I thought about rerouting the lines to the hood along the passenger side but it seemed simpler to tie back into the factory location because the wiring and hoses are already secured to the body over there.
Got mine installed today. Pretty simple install. One recommendation for dummies like me: 
Use three different colors of wire in the kit. I started my wiring at the old location, and got everything covered and heat shrunk before I started on the new side. Once I got over there, I had to get out the multi meter to figure out which wire was which. Again, MY stupid mistake, but it might save someone a few minutes.
New vs. Old
Use three different colors of wire in the kit. I started my wiring at the old location, and got everything covered and heat shrunk before I started on the new side. Once I got over there, I had to get out the multi meter to figure out which wire was which. Again, MY stupid mistake, but it might save someone a few minutes.New vs. Old
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- #31
I’ve sourced some three conductor wire (red/white/black) to remedy that situation. Sorry you had the moment of headache, appreciate you sharing!Got mine installed today. Pretty simple install. One recommendation for dummies like me:
View attachment 3677012
New vs. Old
View attachment 3677013
Awesome! And again...my stupid mistake...kind of like when I did my oil change today, and forgot to open the burp hole in the oil drain pan. Walked away for 5 minutes, and came back to oil on the garage floor.
Hi all, I just recently installed my tank and want to share my experience in case it helps anyone with this quick project. I bought the kit with the installation kit as seen in the photo.
First, I made sure my wheels were hard-turned to the passenger side to make it easy. You can remove the driver's side tire, but it's unnecessary.
Second, I disconnected the negative terminal of my battery in preparation for wire work later on. I used a plastic cap to avoid accidental touching.
Next, start removing the old washer fluid reserve. It is held by three bolts: two reachable from the wheel well and one accessible from the bottom. Remove the first two and move underneath the vehicle.
View from underneath for that third bolt so you don't miss it. I used an extension to make it easy.
Next, use a pair of pliers to push this plastic tab underneath upward.
First, I made sure my wheels were hard-turned to the passenger side to make it easy. You can remove the driver's side tire, but it's unnecessary.
Second, I disconnected the negative terminal of my battery in preparation for wire work later on. I used a plastic cap to avoid accidental touching.
Next, start removing the old washer fluid reserve. It is held by three bolts: two reachable from the wheel well and one accessible from the bottom. Remove the first two and move underneath the vehicle.
View from underneath for that third bolt so you don't miss it. I used an extension to make it easy.
Next, use a pair of pliers to push this plastic tab underneath upward.
By now, you've probably noticed there's another plastic tab on the top. No need to worry. If you did everything else mentioned above, you can now wiggle the plastic cover out of the way by pulling towards the tab, and the plastic cover will come off, revealing the reservoir.
Once you pull the cover this is what you'll see. Tip: I recommend reinserting the bottom bolt again just so gravity doesn't win in case you have a full reservoir. Next, disconnect the two holes and unplug the connection that is circled in red.
The plug can be a pain in the butt - I had 20 years' worth of dirt around the edges of mine, but use a small pry tool. For me, a tiny flathead pushing in the red square area did the job of separating them.
Once everything is disconnected, go to the top and pull upwards on the refill cap. It will separate from the reservoir.
Next, go back underneath. If you reinsert the bottom bolt to secure the reservoir, remove it. Once done, you are ready to pull out the reservoir slowly—take your time. You might make a little splash, but it won't hurt you. Congrats, the hard part is done - you have an empty area now.
You'll be wondering, "I have three bolts now—what do I do with them?" You can keep them or put them back where they were threaded. I did just that so I wouldn't have any random bolts lying around.
Next - empty out your reservoir fluid. Depending on what you have or how it looks, it may just be worth it to dump it and refill it with new stuff. Regardless, you need it to be empty for the next steps.
Once you pull the cover this is what you'll see. Tip: I recommend reinserting the bottom bolt again just so gravity doesn't win in case you have a full reservoir. Next, disconnect the two holes and unplug the connection that is circled in red.
The plug can be a pain in the butt - I had 20 years' worth of dirt around the edges of mine, but use a small pry tool. For me, a tiny flathead pushing in the red square area did the job of separating them.
Once everything is disconnected, go to the top and pull upwards on the refill cap. It will separate from the reservoir.
Next, go back underneath. If you reinsert the bottom bolt to secure the reservoir, remove it. Once done, you are ready to pull out the reservoir slowly—take your time. You might make a little splash, but it won't hurt you. Congrats, the hard part is done - you have an empty area now.
You'll be wondering, "I have three bolts now—what do I do with them?" You can keep them or put them back where they were threaded. I did just that so I wouldn't have any random bolts lying around.
Next - empty out your reservoir fluid. Depending on what you have or how it looks, it may just be worth it to dump it and refill it with new stuff. Regardless, you need it to be empty for the next steps.
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Remove the pumps by pulling them outwards one at a time. Wedging my finger from the top gave me better leverage and made pulling the pump out easier. Clean the tips afterward since they will be more than likely slimy from years of gunk.
Remove the O rings and wipe them down as well. You can pull them or bend them and pull them out.
You can discard the old reservoir. You're ready to install everything on the new tank. Start by putting in your clean plugs. Then, insert the pumps individually and ensure they're pushed in.
The following steps are for if you bought the installation kit, but even if you didn't, I hope this helps you set up the wiring and tubing.
Let's insert the included extended tubing that connects to the pump. I found it challenging to connect them dry, so I used some Harbor Freight super lube, which made the job ten times easier. Another tip: flip the tank upside down to connect your tubing versus pushing down—it's much easier to control and get a grip on the connections.
Next, let us build the wiring connection.
Remove the O rings and wipe them down as well. You can pull them or bend them and pull them out.
You can discard the old reservoir. You're ready to install everything on the new tank. Start by putting in your clean plugs. Then, insert the pumps individually and ensure they're pushed in.
The following steps are for if you bought the installation kit, but even if you didn't, I hope this helps you set up the wiring and tubing.
Let's insert the included extended tubing that connects to the pump. I found it challenging to connect them dry, so I used some Harbor Freight super lube, which made the job ten times easier. Another tip: flip the tank upside down to connect your tubing versus pushing down—it's much easier to control and get a grip on the connections.
Next, let us build the wiring connection.
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For the wiring:
Note: Black to black, red to solid blue, and the red wire (With red sharpie) to blue with a white line.
(Not shown, but I then used electrical tape to seal everything up for extra ease of mind and a cleaner look - alternatively, you can also use more heat shrink tubing to seal everything again)
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You're now ready to install your tank on your truck! It's super easy (two bolts), and I am sure you can figure that out. By hard parking to the driver side, you should have space to put your hand down for the washers and nut, or get an extra pair of hands to help you out.
I recommend running your tubing and wiring between the air filter and behind the tank for a cleaner look.
Now, let's talk wire routing: You have two options (that I could see as working out, but share if you have other ideas!)
As of now, I did this with a stock bumper. My high clearance Dissent should be here soon, and it might make me want to change my final choice, but take this as inspiration for your own routing.
Option 1) Run wires from the top of the radiator down the hole where the old neck for the washer reservoir was, and connect everything on the other end. The only potential downside is that where it comes together, it leaves your tubing and wiring exposed to any debris coming off the tire, damaging your setup (unless you protect it)
Alternatively, you can run it on top of the radiator and then, instead of coming down the circled tube, push it to the front and route it on the opposite end, BUT the installation kit tubing may be too short to make it happen.
- Run the three included wires through the wire loom that came with the kit
- Tip: Don't pull or push the wires, but "mush" it in where it bulges and moves the wires in
- Use the included shrink tubing on the ends to prevent them from going anywhere and give it a clean look.
- Tip: Mark one of the red wires if you have an old installation kit to match it properly to the connection on the truck. I used a red Sharpie (all I had in the garage at the time)
- Use the included seal heat shrink butt connectors to tie in your wires on both ends
- Cut the old connector on the pump wire harness and connect everything to your new harness.
Note: Black to black, red to solid blue, and the red wire (With red sharpie) to blue with a white line.
(Not shown, but I then used electrical tape to seal everything up for extra ease of mind and a cleaner look - alternatively, you can also use more heat shrink tubing to seal everything again)
--------
You're now ready to install your tank on your truck! It's super easy (two bolts), and I am sure you can figure that out. By hard parking to the driver side, you should have space to put your hand down for the washers and nut, or get an extra pair of hands to help you out.
I recommend running your tubing and wiring between the air filter and behind the tank for a cleaner look.
Now, let's talk wire routing: You have two options (that I could see as working out, but share if you have other ideas!)
As of now, I did this with a stock bumper. My high clearance Dissent should be here soon, and it might make me want to change my final choice, but take this as inspiration for your own routing.
Option 1) Run wires from the top of the radiator down the hole where the old neck for the washer reservoir was, and connect everything on the other end. The only potential downside is that where it comes together, it leaves your tubing and wiring exposed to any debris coming off the tire, damaging your setup (unless you protect it)
Alternatively, you can run it on top of the radiator and then, instead of coming down the circled tube, push it to the front and route it on the opposite end, BUT the installation kit tubing may be too short to make it happen.
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Option 2) Route through the front of the vehicle. This route will give you plenty of options and shield some of the wiring from road debris coming off your wheel. This does run the risk of conflicting with winches, bumpers, etc, but to each their own. I hope it gives you some ideas!
You can also add extra protection to your hoses if you want.
Once you decide on a path, connect the two hoses, cut the other wire end, and wire it with your harness.
(Black to pink, red to solid blue, red with Sharpie to blue with yellow stripe)
Lastly, refill your reservoir and enjoy! I hope this helps and spurs some more ideas! Thanks for joining my TED talk.
You can also add extra protection to your hoses if you want.
Once you decide on a path, connect the two hoses, cut the other wire end, and wire it with your harness.
(Black to pink, red to solid blue, red with Sharpie to blue with yellow stripe)
Lastly, refill your reservoir and enjoy! I hope this helps and spurs some more ideas! Thanks for joining my TED talk.
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- Thread starter
- #38
Thank you so much for putting in all that effort in detail and sharing on here! Some of the install is very straightforward, and some parts (mainly the wire/hose routing) is up to the installer on what works best for them and their preference. One guy even routed up and across the firewall. I tried to make the kit work for a couple options.
The tether is a good idea!
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