PIG + Chebby Avalanche Trim =?
- Thread starter LC_Hamma
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LC_Hamma
The Anti-Leafer
- Thread starter
- #242
Boxing In Rear Rollbar:
I used 1/8" to reinforce the rear of the roof. This should aid in deterring body flex. Plus, it's way easier to weld this in a single pass versus spot welding if it were sheet metal. The bottom plate & 1 panel on each side will be removable so I can install small flush mounted lights.
I used 1/8" to reinforce the rear of the roof. This should aid in deterring body flex. Plus, it's way easier to weld this in a single pass versus spot welding if it were sheet metal. The bottom plate & 1 panel on each side will be removable so I can install small flush mounted lights.
LC_Hamma
The Anti-Leafer
- Thread starter
- #243
Workin On The Bottom Panel:
All I gotta do is drill, tap for 1/4" X 20 countersunk screws & weld on the tabs to hold the panels. You can see where I had to add a little weld mat'l. due to the cut & shape to form the curve. Getting ready to cut the arch on the back panel to match the front next, then onto the sides & their removable panels.......
All I gotta do is drill, tap for 1/4" X 20 countersunk screws & weld on the tabs to hold the panels. You can see where I had to add a little weld mat'l. due to the cut & shape to form the curve. Getting ready to cut the arch on the back panel to match the front next, then onto the sides & their removable panels.......
panels
that's not a cig either.....
that's not a cig either.....
LC_Hamma
The Anti-Leafer
- Thread starter
- #247
Int. Transom Area/ Bottom Plate:
I'll call the area that covers the rollbar a transom, so the 1st pic is what I'm workin on. I'll place the bottom plate up there & weld it to the front arched plate, then, mark the arch on the rear plate (just tacked up) so I can cut it to match the front. Then, finally weld the rear plate to the bottom plate. Get it Roy?
I'll call the area that covers the rollbar a transom, so the 1st pic is what I'm workin on. I'll place the bottom plate up there & weld it to the front arched plate, then, mark the arch on the rear plate (just tacked up) so I can cut it to match the front. Then, finally weld the rear plate to the bottom plate. Get it Roy?
LC_Hamma
The Anti-Leafer
- Thread starter
- #248
Bottom Panel Welded In:
I'm giving the grinders a break right now - they kinda warm ;p Got the rear panel marked & cut, still have to finish the contour of it to match the front, then weld it up. Goin to paint the inside of the transom & rear panel before I weld it.
I'm giving the grinders a break right now - they kinda warm ;p Got the rear panel marked & cut, still have to finish the contour of it to match the front, then weld it up. Goin to paint the inside of the transom & rear panel before I weld it.
Okay, so I'm curious on the boxing. You are boxing a roll cage inside of 1/8" plate all the way around? Why not just leave the roll cage tubing out of it? I know you like overkill, but the boxed 1/8 is probably just as stong if not stronger than the tube itself depending on how you construct it. I don't know if you have noticed the A pillar on most 3 series BMW racers these days, but they have gone to more of a drilled truss than just a tube now. Gotta think if it's good enough for 160mph.....it's strong enough to hold up a 6,000lb pig. 
There's a joint on the roof I have to patch with POR Metal Grip - sorta like bondo. The side panels are next........
LC_Hamma
The Anti-Leafer
- Thread starter
- #252
Okay, so I'm curious on the boxing. You are boxing a roll cage inside of 1/8" plate all the way around? Why not just leave the roll cage tubing out of it? I know you like overkill, but the boxed 1/8 is probably just as stong if not stronger than the tube itself depending on how you construct it. I don't know if you have noticed the A pillar on most 3 series BMW racers these days, but they have gone to more of a drilled truss than just a tube now. Gotta think if it's good enough for 160mph.....it's strong enough to hold up a 6,000lb pig.
My initial thought, from the very 1st post in this thread, was to use 1/4" wall & no tubing. But after thinkin about tryin to bend & curve 1/4" wall to the Chebby Avalanche contour, I felt it was gonna be so much work I decided to run 2" DOM tubing (main tube) instead, then box out & shape w/ 1/8" plate ;p You sensitive about overkill
Yeah, I coulda used sheet metal, but I get frustrated when that stuff warps. I'm used to building stuff with thick metal = no waiting for the pieces to cool & no spot welding. I have enough experience w/ the 
sheetmetal already Thanks for the comment though
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LC_Hamma
The Anti-Leafer
- Thread starter
- #255
Since I'm "adding 100 lbs. per week" (quote from Rutbeer), I've thought about where I can remove access weight. Y'all are finally getting thru
Anyway, how bout replacing the doors w/ tube or, better yet, pick up some trashed doors & modify/ gut/ cut 'em down? But, I still want to do the door sill trim as seen on the very 1st post in this thread. 
I have not the time to read this entire post, but this is utter BLASPHEMY!
I would sooner drive both my Cruisers off a cliff than make them like some modern plastic-looking "4x4".
I am certainly a purist who thinks that even so much Chevy (or other make) drivetrain parts really no longer makes it a Cruiser! Let alone going through the trouble to specially fab body panels. Hell, I don't even like rock buggies much!
(Since they don't look like a Cruiser)---though they do serve quite a purpose, and are usually the result of years of hardcore wheeling, body rot, and just plain old desire for a bitchin' climber you don't need to worry about rolling, etc.
OK- maybe I like them a bit...
BUT a Cruiser is NO AVALANCHE!!!!!!!!
I would sooner drive both my Cruisers off a cliff than make them like some modern plastic-looking "4x4".
I am certainly a purist who thinks that even so much Chevy (or other make) drivetrain parts really no longer makes it a Cruiser! Let alone going through the trouble to specially fab body panels. Hell, I don't even like rock buggies much!
(Since they don't look like a Cruiser)---though they do serve quite a purpose, and are usually the result of years of hardcore wheeling, body rot, and just plain old desire for a bitchin' climber you don't need to worry about rolling, etc.
OK- maybe I like them a bit...
BUT a Cruiser is NO AVALANCHE!!!!!!!!
LC_Hamma
The Anti-Leafer
- Thread starter
- #257
Thanks for the *kind opinion & words of encouragement. If you haven't followed the thread, you'd be happy to know the only non LC drivetrain parts are the tranny, rear axle & front axle outers
I'll summarize why I'm building my this way --> I wanna create this for heavy trail use & that's also a merge of old boxy style to a more *modern look ;p Why settle for stock 
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Looking good.
I too was a little confused what you were going to do with the rear section of the pig. But I am liking it so far.
I'm glad that all of our "nagging" about weight is getting through to you.
What is your guesstamated or desired time frame for completion of this beast?
I too was a little confused what you were going to do with the rear section of the pig. But I am liking it so far.
I'm glad that all of our "nagging" about weight is getting through to you.
What is your guesstamated or desired time frame for completion of this beast?
LC_Hamma
The Anti-Leafer
- Thread starter
- #260
Looking good.
I too was a little confused what you were going to do with the rear section of the pig. But I am liking it so far.
I'm glad that all of our "nagging" about weight is getting through to you.
What is your guesstamated or desired time frame for completion of this beast?
preciate the thumbs up!Mudpaws doesn't know that degrading my buildup helps fuel my desire to finish this
alanche Timeframe? I'm workin on this about every day & like my 40 buildup, I'll be at the mercy of another shop to finish up a few items - driveshafts, rewiring, front axle shafts, setup new rear diff gears, etc.
I ain't done with the rear section yet........... Dovetail coming soon.........