Pics of Sliders with factory steps?....

[REZARF]

Got a picture of a slider set up, that retains the fatory step? I plan on fabbing some of these up sometime before Moab and wanted to see what else was out ther. I am looking to retain as much stock look as possible and have no intention of removing any of the rocker to increase my clearance.

Whatcha' got?

Thanks!

Rezarf <><

 

[eleblanc]

Here are mine, scroll down the first page of the thread.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/132646-sliders-question.html

 

[mr_manny]

dug up some old pics of mine, thanks to profitts cruisers

newer pic

 

[bsevans]

This is what I use to run.

 

[Felix]

Here are some shots of mine right after I installed them a couple years ago. Made by Ryan Bascom at Below Deck Fabrication.

 

[robj]

Mine are not using the step but I made them the shape of the step, theyre angled up slightly so its hard to get a picture

 

[Fast Eddy]

Good thread. More please.

 

[3DAMAN!]

Here are mine, scroll down the first page of the thread.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/132646-sliders-question.html

Those are nice!

 

[greytandy]

Mine were also done by Ryan Bascom at Belowdeck Fabrication.

 

[REZARF]

Here are mine, scroll down the first page of the thread.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/132646-sliders-question.html

Wow! I really like the look of those. How did you get such a tight angle on your radius? Are those welding els or what? Very cool bud, I really like it. Are they 100% stainless?

Thanks!

 

[REZARF]

This is what I used to run.

Do you have a pic of these from the side view of the rig? thanks!

Rezarf <><

 

[Cresso]

Here are mine, scroll down the first page of the thread.

I'd buy those in a heartbeat if they were commercially available. Beautiful.

 

[1973Guppie]

yes, but only problem with the type that bolt to the body only is that, eventually, if you hit them hard enough your body will bend and deform, it is best to have a design that extends to the frame and welds or bolts to the frame.

Noah

 

[fj40forlife]

and tested many times

 

[eleblanc]

Wow! I really like the look of those. How did you get such a tight angle on your radius? Are those welding els or what? Very cool bud, I really like it. Are they 100% stainless?

Thanks!

My goal was exactly the same has yours, keep the original look without loosing clearance with something really strong.

I use simple 1 1/4" sch 40 stainless steel pipe, with weld on short radius elbow. I perfectly match the OEM size of the board. I had a 3/16" or 1/4" plate bended, then using a grinder with a cutting disc and patience. You cannot see but even the fender bolt to the OEM step is there, i welded a SS bolt to the pipe. The big problem with it, is that once i was over welding it this thing was curved like s**t, even with patience and cooling. I brought them to my shop were i have a stainless steel specialist, we marked the slider and heated where we had marks to make it straight again, you can clearly see the heated place on the first picture.

Elbows are like 5-10$ each, then 1x 12' long pipe. I had some left over of 3/16" SS plate and i went to a local shop to get 1/8" checker plate. Obviously you don't buy a 1000$ 4'x8' SS 3/16" plate for this, you need to find a shop that is willing to cut and bend the slider, just have them do the piece longer then what you need and then cut it. Could easily be done in mild steel, i just had the left over ss plate and didn't want to keep touching up my sliders with paint

They would be wayyy too expensive to manufacture, lots of grinding and buffing. Doing a jig and mass producing them in mild steel could be reasonable, but still expensive. But i think the idea is the best i've seen yet.

If you decide to go stainless, you'll need obviously SS wire for the welder, appropriate gaz...don't try to drill SS without serious drill bits, don't drill dry but use cutting oil. Do not use grinding or buffing tools that has already been used in steel, you will contaminate your SS and rust will appear all over it. And yes they are 100% stainless, even the bolt holding them.


See all pictures here;
Stainless Steel Sliders


trust me, they already seen there share of rocks...

 

[eleblanc]

yes, but only problem with the type that bolt to the body only is that, eventually, if you hit them hard enough your body will bend and deform, it is best to have a design that extends to the frame and welds or bolts to the frame.

Noah

True, and that was my hardest decision, but i decided to go with more clearence. I haven't had any issue yet, and i had half the weight of the truck on them. You really have to hit hard to get it deformed...I wasn't going to do real hardcore wheeling so they are perfect for what i do.

 

[fj40forlife]

True, and that was my hardest decision, but i decided to go with more clearence. I haven't had any issue yet, and i had half the weight of the truck on them. REally have tyo hit hard to get it deformed...I wasn'T going to do real hardcore wheeling so they are perfect for what i do.

Its not bad if you slowly land on them. Its when you get pretty crazy and give them hell. thats why I went to the frame. I may even try it to the frame/cage

 

[REZARF]

My goal was exactly the same has yours, keep the original look without loosing clearance with something really strong.

I use simple 1 1/4" sch 40 stainless steel pipe, with weld on short radius elbow. I perfectly match the OEM size of the board. I had a 3/16" or 1/4" plate bended, then using a grinder with a cutting disc and patience. You cannot see but even the fender bolt to the OEM step is there, i welded a SS bolt to the pipe. The big problem with it, is that once i was over welding it this thing was curved like s**t, even with patience and cooling. I brought them to my shop were i have a stainless steel specialist, we marked the slider and heated where we had marks to make it straight again, you can clearly see the heated place on the first picture.

Elbows are like 5-10$ each, then 1x 12' long pipe. I had some left over of 3/16" SS plate and i went to a local shop to get 1/8" checker plate. Obviously you don't buy a 1000$ 4'x8' SS 3/16" plate for this, you need to find a shop that is willing to cut and bend the slider, just have them do the piece longer then what you need and then cut it. Could easily be done in mild steel, i just had the left over ss plate and didn't want to keep touching up my sliders with paint

They would be wayyy too expensive to manufacture, lots of grinding and buffing. Doing a jig and mass producing them in mild steel could be reasonable, but still expensive. But i think the idea is the best i've seen yet.

If you decide to go stainless, you'll need obviously SS wire for the welder, appropriate gaz...don't try to drill SS without serious drill bits, don't drill dry but use cutting oil. Do not use grinding or buffing tools that has already been used in steel, you will contaminate your SS and rust will appear all over it. And yes they are 100% stainless, even the bolt holding them.


See all pictures here;
Stainless Steel Sliders


trust me, they already seen there share of rocks...

Great, thanks. I may try to copy some of that, but I might go all the way back to the rear fender opening as that seems to be a place that I get close to "kissing" a lot.

thanks!

 

[eleblanc]

Great, thanks. I may try to copy some of that, but I might go all the way back to the rear fender opening as that seems to be a place that I get close to "kissing" a lot.

thanks!

Not sure what you mean by rear fender opening?

 

[2badfjs]

remove the step and be done with it!