I ordered the Samco extreme hose with Breeze clamps. After comparing to the new OEM hose that came with the hard pipe, the Samco extreme does seem incredibly robust, so I went with it. That with the Breeze clamps seems like it will handle way more than I’ll throw at it, but time will tell.I've mentioned this before, but FWIW I compared side-by-side the hose that comes on a new OEM PHH pipe/hose assembly to the GATES Green Stripe, and the Green Stripe hose had thicker layers. And then comparing the OEM hose that came on the assembly to other OEM heater hoses and the PHH hose felt even a bit wimpier (more easily squished). So wondering if the vendor who makes the OEM hose/pipe assembly is using a different hose than the manufacturer of the other OEM water heater hoses?? IDK
FWIW 15+ years ago one 80 got the Gates Green Stripe with Breeze constant torque clamps, no leaks since. On another 80 I used Green Stripe with GATES Power Grip SB clamps (heat shrinkable bands), no issues there either.
Tip: There are a few advantages to the GATES Power Grip clamps/bands: they squeeze down on the hose and pipe equally 360' around the OD eliminating cold leaks and they never need re-tightening. Also, IME, the two thick thermoplastic clamp/bands (3/4" wide each) almost completely cover the short section of hose for the PHH so it's now pretty much indestructible IMO. Main disadvantage to the Power Grip clamps/bands is getting heat to them in tight spaces; it can be done with a bendable pipe/nozzle attached to a full size heat gun, or by using one of those small flame-type heat guns with the diffuser.
Green Stripe™ Heater Hose | Gates Corporation
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Pesky Heater Hose (PHH) and that Pesky Bottom Bolt (PBB)
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Yes, the hose that comes already attached to a new OEM pipe assembly is less robust (thinner wall construction) which IMO may be why the original hose in that location fails long before any other water hose in the system.
Been discussed in the past but FWIW two potential issues with any silicone rubber hose, they never stick or fuse to the metal pipes (as rubber hoses do) so you're more likely to get leaks; good clamps like the Breeze constant torque clamps or the Gates Power Grip clamps/bands help solve that problem. Also water can work it's way directly through the layers of a silicone rubber hose, sounds impossible but apparently it's a concern.
Been discussed in the past but FWIW two potential issues with any silicone rubber hose, they never stick or fuse to the metal pipes (as rubber hoses do) so you're more likely to get leaks; good clamps like the Breeze constant torque clamps or the Gates Power Grip clamps/bands help solve that problem. Also water can work it's way directly through the layers of a silicone rubber hose, sounds impossible but apparently it's a concern.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Gates green strip or Napa yellow strip HD heater hose and the loop around ditch that little hose and pipe.
Great intel. I’ll keep you posted on how it does. Insane that water can seep through!
Ugh, pretty certain I came at it from the top and pax side. And 90% the hose was connected and the top bolt loosely in place. My "new" tool for the project was from the Tekton Outlet, an XL 12/14mm 6 point ratcheting wrench. Wish I had the presence of my to get the 8/10mm version at the same time.
Anyone purchased from phhkit.com?
is that the silicone version? I used the toyota PN from toyota, bought it with the metal pipe also
I purchased from them. I bought the Samco Xtreme silicone hose with clamps, but also replaced the metal pipe from Toyota (I would recommend this as well because even at 175k mine was a little rough). There are varying opinions on the silicone, but it seems very robust and the Breeze constant torque clamps are awesome.
That’s great. I have a spare from the OEM pipe as well that I’ll always keep on hand, though I’d really like to avoid a roadside or trail side replacement
I'm getting ready to do the dreaded PHH and the bypass hose on the throttle body. I'm an old guy with big hands and big forearms, so I'm looking for the best access and least frustration. I don't mind R&R as much as I mind hours of blind finger twiddling as my wrists bleed.
I'm already doing a valve cover gasket replacement and I'm using the opportunity to replace a lot of parts. The throttle body and valve cover are off, the heater valve is coming out for replacement, and the brake booster is coming out for replacement.
The question of this post: Should I remove the windshield wiper cowling for even more access? What else could make it easer for a thick and old mechanic?
Thanks,
T.
I'm already doing a valve cover gasket replacement and I'm using the opportunity to replace a lot of parts. The throttle body and valve cover are off, the heater valve is coming out for replacement, and the brake booster is coming out for replacement.
The question of this post: Should I remove the windshield wiper cowling for even more access? What else could make it easer for a thick and old mechanic?
Thanks,
T.
Easiest way will be to remove the upper intake. Then you can replace the old vacuum hoses under there as well as the PHH, the throttle body coolant hoses and fuel filter (all PM items).
Although it's not factory I've been happy with ditching the PHH hard line and going with the bypass.
I do not think that will buy you much in the way of additional work room. I am not certain I would do it again, but I was doing the VCG and cleaning the upper IM. The lower bolt got back on because a played around with a long 6 pt ratcheting flex head (Tektron) and used masking tape on the back of the wrench to hold the bolt in place for the initial turn. It was neither fun, nor quick.
That's my plan next step after I get everything out, some tool research to get that done. I won't sleep at night if I have a broken tab or a missing bolt.
I'm also planning on using the OEM hose and not silicon, and replacing the metal bracket that comes up.
I'm also planning on using the OEM hose and not silicon, and replacing the metal bracket that comes up.
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
U can DM your number and facetime me if you want - i can show you how to get in what tools I used . I am good on saturday morning and adjust for eastern time so 5am your time is good for me
I bought a new hose/pipe assembly from Toyota. I then got two of the Toyota spring clamps with the red clips on them so when all was in place I could pop them off with long pliers. I went this route accidentally as a mechanic told me my pipe was rusted. It turns out be stainless steel.
Like I said, I'm trying to cheat. I'm planning on removing more parts and buying more tools, hoping to avoid some of the agony.
My starting point was removing the TB, valve cover, and upper manifold. Next I'll remove the brake booster, heater valve, and gas filter. I'm hoping to stay out of the wheel well.
My goal is to get the hose and bracket off, no broken tab, and to get a new OEM hose and pipe back on with two bolts.
Once I have all my angles I'll buy a mix of pivoting wrenches, long reach pliers, a hose clamp tool, and anything else I can think of. I'm planning on using the specified 90467-22003 clamps, which I expect to come pinned open. If I struggle to position and close them appropriately I may try options like the images below. Any recommendations on specific tools that worked well is helpful.
Some threads talk about unbolting a harness retainer, some talk about removing sensors. I'll figure that out when I get there, as not everyone removes as many blocking parts as I will. I'm reluctant to touch the harness.
Let me know if I'm missing anything, what else goes wrong, etc. I've read all the threads and I'm admittedly afraid...
Thanks,
T.
My starting point was removing the TB, valve cover, and upper manifold. Next I'll remove the brake booster, heater valve, and gas filter. I'm hoping to stay out of the wheel well.
My goal is to get the hose and bracket off, no broken tab, and to get a new OEM hose and pipe back on with two bolts.
Once I have all my angles I'll buy a mix of pivoting wrenches, long reach pliers, a hose clamp tool, and anything else I can think of. I'm planning on using the specified 90467-22003 clamps, which I expect to come pinned open. If I struggle to position and close them appropriately I may try options like the images below. Any recommendations on specific tools that worked well is helpful.
Some threads talk about unbolting a harness retainer, some talk about removing sensors. I'll figure that out when I get there, as not everyone removes as many blocking parts as I will. I'm reluctant to touch the harness.
Let me know if I'm missing anything, what else goes wrong, etc. I've read all the threads and I'm admittedly afraid...
Thanks,
T.
FWIW, I did not remove the brake booster. That might alone get you pretty direct access from the side. I did have everything thing else off and went from the top while lying on a board. The Toyota spring clamps were brilliant, but I still managed to break the wire on the rear knock sensor in the process. So, watch that one.
Getting the bolts out was not difficult, getting the lower one back on was the challenge. I hope you are replacing the little coolant hoses while you are in there.
Getting the bolts out was not difficult, getting the lower one back on was the challenge. I hope you are replacing the little coolant hoses while you are in there.
