permit me to open a big oily can of worms... (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 20, 2005
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by asking for advice on engine oil for a 2F with 160K mi, running well, coupla main seal leaks like any other 2F. What is your favorite and why?

yeah, did a search, tried a couple of different angles and terms, got a ton of nonspecific references so dammit shoot me, I want to hear recent, specific opinions. After all, can't argue the election any more...

thanks
 
Where you live? What temperatures does your cruiser see?

The 15W40 Chevron Delo is what I am running now.
 
Midwest. 100+ degree sumers, 15 degree January moments.

Been running Rotella 5/30, my pressure's great, mid OEM gauge all the time (when it's not leaked down a quart).

More specifically, how about the high mileage blends? Synthetic? I've read recently about more leaks with synthetic?
 
Midwest. 100+ degree sumers, 15 degree January moments.

Been running Rotella 5/30, my pressure's great, mid OEM gauge all the time (when it's not leaked down a quart).

More specifically, how about the high mileage blends? Synthetic? I've read recently about more leaks with synthetic?

Keep running what you are running, or go up to 10w-30. Rotella and Delo are great oils for these engines. I don't like to change oils (brands or weights) once one has been in the engine for awhile. Personal preference, no facts to back it up.

I don't bother with synthetic, I don't plan to put another 100k on my 62, only 400 miles this year.
 
I use & recommend whatever cheap diesel oil is on sale, because it is a Land Cruiser:zilla:

not a new BMW powered:princess: range rover:princess:.

Hmmm, excellent point. I'm used to Rotella and Castrol in the other vehicles; just don't have any experience with a 160K 2f
 
Rotella T 15w-40 here in sunny so. Cal --

btw, please change your avatar... It's disturbing on too many levels!
 
I run Castrol GTX 20W50, I think. I change the oil at 5000 mile intervals. It still looks really clean when it comes out.
 
btw, please change your avatar... It's disturbing on too many levels!

that really is going to hurt my wife's feelings after I worked so hard to get her to give a "face" to our 60, "Punkin"
 
20/50 in the summer, 10/30 in the winter.

whaever brand of dinoshlog you like, just change it often.
 
and let it warm up on the cold mornings.
 
Nobody runs Royal Purple? or Mobile1 and why not thanks

Lets see, whats that cost? 10 bucks a qt.? 8.5 qt. oil pan... so carry the 0... That comes to 90 bucks in oil plus an oil filter. congrats, you have just changed the oil in a 25 year old truck for only $100!!! That means, in 25K miles, i will have put more oil in the truck than I paid for it... (speaking Royal Purple here)

Welcome to MUD Newb... :flipoff2:
 
Amsoil 20w50 most of the year in AZ, and if a there's change warranted in the winter, them something a little lighter.
 
I dont care about the brand. If it is on sale i buy it!!! I do keep the wt the same though. I run 10/30 in the winter and 20 /50 in summer. Oil is ment to be changed!!!!!! go cheep!!
 
I run the thinnest oil that I can maintain ideal oil pressure with. Simple figuring is that the thinner the oil, the less work the engine has to do. My 3FE has 241K miles and I've been running full synth for the last 100K with the only leak (which was pretty gnarly at the time) being from the oil pan gasket, which I fixed long ago. At first I used 10W-30 dyno oil and because synth is normally thinner (though it has the same viscosity numbers) I ran 15W-50 full synth. Last year or so I tried 10W-30 synth to see if my oil pressure would stay or end up too low, and it stayed just fine. The thinner oil really helped my truck perform better too. Never realized how a thicker oil can make the engine have to work so much harder under the same conditions. The 10W-30 synth dips a bit at idle but not much. I think any thinner than that and my idle pressure would be too low.

A guy I work with is a big fan or Royal Purple, but I use Mobil 1 because it's easily available and unlike Castrol is a true full synthetic.
 

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