permit me to open a big oily can of worms...

[tonkota]

I run the thinnest oil that I can maintain ideal oil pressure with. .......
....d how a thicker oil can make the engine have to work so much harder under the same conditions. The 10W-30 synth dips a bit at idle but not much. I think any thinner than that and my idle pressure would be too low.

A guy I work with is a big fan or Royal Purple, but I use Mobil 1 because it's easily available and unlike Castrol is a true full synthetic.

The 2F and 3F can easily live on single digit oil pressure. I agree that a thinner oil will unleash more power, but c'mon spook, we'll have to drag race.

Remember, the most important thing is that you have oil, and oil pressure and that you check your oil.

 

[Spook50]

The 2F and 3F can easily live on single digit oil pressure. I agree that a thinner oil will unleash more power, but c'mon spook, we'll have to drag race.

Remember, the most important thing is that you have oil, and oil pressure and that you check your oil.

Yeah, I found that out when I drove five miles COMPLETELY DRY of oil when my plug blew. The one day I wasn't paying attention to the oil gauge and didn't realize it until I parked and could smell hot oil.

Considering you basically have the same truck as me with a stroked and cam'd version of my engine, I have a feeling you'll probably win...

 

[Spike Strip]

So, my fellow 'cruzah craniums, what has this Mega Oil thread taught us ??

You can either spend $100 an oil change, or you can spend $25 and still get Lots and lots of miles out of your beast. Sure, there may be little things like drips and drops and which way the migrating birds fly, but it's your money. Spend it as you please.

 

[tonkota]

Yeah, I found that out when I drove five miles COMPLETELY DRY of oil when my plug blew. The one day I wasn't paying attention to the oil gauge and didn't realize it until I parked and could smell hot oil.

Considering you basically have the same truck as me with a stroked and cam'd version of my engine, I have a feeling you'll probably win...

We should still race. I'm sure its legal at the speeds we would reach

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Chevron Delo 15w-40. Available everywhere. Very high marks on the oil forums. Roughly $10 per gallon.

Notice the common theme in this thread. Lots of recs for a 15w-40. Use a "diesel" type oil for the flat tappet cams in the 2F. It isn't clear this makes a huge difference, but it doesn't hurt. The real experts on this motor like JimC above, and Mark Whatley always recommend a thicker oil of at least 40 weight. The 15w-40 diesel/mixed fleet oils are always formulated with a more robust additive package, and are not more expensive than other conventional oils. It makes sense to use them.

It makes no sense to me to run synthetic oils in a high mile motor, starting late in it's life. It does make sense to run something with near synthetic performance without the high price of a true synthetic.

 

[b56tc]

Chevron Delo 15w-40. Available everywhere. Very high marks on the oil forums. Roughly $10 per gallon.

Notice the common theme in this thread. Lots of recs for a 15w-40. Use a "diesel" type oil for the flat tappet cams in the 2F. It isn't clear this makes a huge difference, but it doesn't hurt. The real experts on this motor like JimC above, and Mark Whatley always recommend a thicker oil of at least 40 weight. The 15w-40 diesel/mixed fleet oils are always formulated with a more robust additive package, and are not more expensive than other conventional oils. It makes sense to use them.

It makes no sense to me to run synthetic oils in a high mile motor, starting late in it's life. It does make sense to run something with near synthetic performance without the high price of a true synthetic.

so what are the identifying characteristics of a "diesel" type oil?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

so what are the identifying characteristics of a "diesel" type oil?

The "diesel" oils are in reality, "mixed fleet" oils and suitable for gasoline engines too. They typically have higher levels of anti-wear agents then conventional car type oils. Most are 15w-40 but a few are 10w-30. They are typically marked "Heavy Duty". Learn to read the API symbol and it will be clear what you look for. It will say CI-4 or CJ-4 and also have an SL or SM designation for gasoline engines. (C=compression ignition=diesel, S=spark ignition=gasoline)

Some common brands are:

Chevron Delo
Mobil Delvac
Shell Rotella
Casterol Heavy Duty
Valvoline Blue


Costco carries the Chevron Delo in boxes of 6 gallons for a good price.

 

[cwwfj60]

I live in south texas and I run castrol 20w50 because of the breakdown the oil will go through with the heat of texas you should start with a thicker oil...if you live in a colder climate you should use 10w30. For a landcruiser 10w30 is the lowest you should go...these engines are tough you don't need to baby it with thin oil.....

 

[tonyota]

I run Castrol 10w 40 in mine with a qt. of Lucas oil stabilizer. Carries great oil psi. No performance loss.

 

[ntsqd]

There have been a few reports of flat tappet cams going bad using brand name oils intended for modern cars. I do not know if these are urban/net legend or actual events. The logic makes sense and is worth at least keeping mind.
The friction modifiers needed in an OHC design are far less than those needed by a cam-in-block design. To some degree you can offset this with higher oil viscosity, but that won't help with the cold starts unless you have a pre-lube system. Those friction modifiers are supposedly costly, which is why the oils for late model engines don't have them. Those folks are looking for the least cash expense possible.

The diesel engine oils retain these friction modifiers since few diesel engines are OHC. That makes them a logical selection for older cam-in-block engines that need those oil traits.

 

[FJ40Jim]

It's not the cost of the hi-pressure additives (zinc, phosphorus, sulfur) that caused their removal.
It is their effect on modern catalytic converters and wideband EGO sensors. The EPA required less of the good stuff in SL oil and pretty much removed it entirely in SM oil.

So look for a diesel oil that is still SL or lower rated. It will have the stinky stuff that protects flat tappets.

The bad news is that with the introduction of new clean diesel engines w/ EGR & catalysts, and new ULSD fuel, C rated oils will soon have the same "cleanliness" issues. Might wanna stock up if you find something cheap (old) at the the store.