Parts to upgrade/replace when upgrading brakes (1 Viewer)

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SJWantsADiesel

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Hi,

This week, finally got myself a 1997 LX450. With my 2000 Cruiser, I feel, I now have the best of both worlds - a 80-series and a 100-series :D

256k miles on it but the engine purrs. Has a 3.5" lift kit with 35" tires but I was amazed at how well it behaves on the street and freeway (I have owned/driven other Toyota solid axles that were lifted and they felt like crap in comparison).

The PO seems to have taken good care of the truck and done some tasteful mods. Unfortunately, brakes weren't one of them so I have to play a day ahead to brake. Researching the forums, looks like the Power Stop kit is a reasonable upgrade. While the brakes are off, I'd like to replace/upgrade other parts that are in the way. So far, my list is:
- Steel brake lines
- Marlin inner eco seal
- TG Chromoly Wheel Bearing Nut kit
- Outer bearings and races
- Wondering if I should upgrade to the ARP 2000 Stud kit since I have bigger tires.

Any other parts/upgrades worth considering while the brakes are off?

Thanks!

 
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Just call @cruiseroutfit for a knuckle rebuild kit. Those aftermarket parts you listed really aren't necessary, I would just stick with the stock stuff. Your brake lines are old enough they may warrant replacement, but you can inspect them for cracks first before spending the money. I would replace with stock rubber brake lines over steel braided, personally. You can get OEM Toyota rubber brake lines in longer lengthes to accommodate for lift. I'm sure a quick search will yield the part numbers or someone else might chime in with them.

:edit: I have the powerstop kit you posted, and it works well, although I have since replaced the pads a couple times. Rotors are still straight and true. If I had to do it again, I would not get cross-drilled rotors. Got stuck in the mud once and took like a year to get all the gunk out of them.
 
I have the powerstop kit you posted, and it works well, although I have since replaced the pads a couple times. Rotors are still straight and true. If I had to do it again, I would not get cross-drilled rotors. Got stuck in the mud once and took like a year to get all the gunk out of them.

Would you know the part number for the PowerStop solid rotor? Thank.
 
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Yeah, I would avoid drilled rotors as well. With current tech brake pads drilled rotors is a gimmick at best and potentially a source of cracks. I used Centric slotted rotors on mine and I'm very happy with them. I'm thinking of replacing the master cylinder with an OEM replacement, I've never been happy with the pedal feel and pads/rotors/lines did not change that. I used extended length steel braided lines from Slee since I intended (and did) a bit of a lift.
 
Yeah, I would avoid drilled rotors as well. With current tech brake pads drilled rotors is a gimmick at best and potentially a source of cracks. I used Centric slotted rotors on mine and I'm very happy with them. I'm thinking of replacing the master cylinder with an OEM replacement, I've never been happy with the pedal feel and pads/rotors/lines did not change that. I used extended length steel braided lines from Slee since I intended (and did) a bit of a lift.

Actually, braking isn’t so bad on my truck but the pedal travels a mile before anything engages.
 
Which is why you need to pressure bleed rather than pumping the pedal.
 
Motive Products power bleeder is very good. I have one which I use for brake and clutch work on my 80 and my cars. Bleeding via pedal-pumping definititely works though.

I have been using Marlin inner axle seals since I did my last front end rebuid 5 yrs ago and I don't think they're really worth it. But they probably do improve over stock seals, however that on it's own is not a reason to go with them. 95+ pct of users have stock parts.
 
Just call @cruiseroutfit for a knuckle rebuild kit. Those aftermarket parts you listed really aren't necessary, I would just stick with the stock stuff. Your brake lines are old enough they may warrant replacement, but you can inspect them for cracks first before spending the money. I would replace with stock rubber brake lines over steel braided, personally. You can get OEM Toyota rubber brake lines in longer lengthes to accommodate for lift. I'm sure a quick search will yield the part numbers or someone else might chime in with them....

We would love to help!

If you decide you want the other parts such as the stainless brake lines, TG Lock Kits, ARP studs, Marlin Seals, etc. We stock all of those too!
 
We would love to help!

If you decide you want the other parts such as the stainless brake lines, TG Lock Kits, ARP studs, Marlin Seals, etc. We stock all of those too!

Kurt, do you stock calipers? If so, what brand? Looked on your site awhile back...you guys need a "brakes" tab ;)
 
This stops my 37" BFG equipped truck in its tracks


EBC Green Stuff Brake Pads - Front Pads - Full Set
1997 Lexus LX 450
(All LX 450 models)
EBC Green Stuff Brake Pads - Rear Pads - Full Set
1997 Lexus LX 450
(All LX 450 models)
EBC Sport Rotors - Front Rotor Set
1997 Lexus LX 450
(All LX 450 models)
EBC Sport Rotors - Rear Rotor Set
1997 Lexus LX 450
(All LX 450 models)
 
This stops my 37" BFG equipped truck in its tracks


EBC Green Stuff Brake Pads - Front Pads - Full Set
1997 Lexus LX 450
(All LX 450 models)
EBC Green Stuff Brake Pads - Rear Pads - Full Set
1997 Lexus LX 450
(All LX 450 models)
EBC Sport Rotors - Front Rotor Set
1997 Lexus LX 450
(All LX 450 models)
EBC Sport Rotors - Rear Rotor Set
1997 Lexus LX 450
(All LX 450 models)

Thanks, exactly the info I was looking for.
 
Kurt, do you stock calipers? If so, what brand? Looked on your site awhile back...you guys need a "brakes" tab ;)

We need a ton of new tabs, working on that :D

We don't stock calipers for the 80 Series yet, it is in the works. We have an exclusive offering of all Japanese loaded calipers from all OE manufactures. Currently available for the 4x/5x/6x/7x but coming 90+ applications in the future. :D

IMG_1084.JPG
 
Does your axle need a rebuild? Is it leaking? Or do only the brakes need to be done?
 
Unless you are having a problem with the wheel bearings, they are most likely OK. They last a long time. I personally wouldn't go with the TG wheel bearing nut. IMHO, it is a solution for a problem that doesn't exist. I would also measure the discs to see if they even need replacing. Again, I'm not a fan of replacing / fixing things that aren't broken. I'd probably throw in some EBC green pads, repack the bearings, and call it good. That is, unless I see other things that need to be replaced.
 
This stops my 37" BFG equipped truck in its tracks


EBC Green Stuff Brake Pads - Front Pads - Full Set
1997 Lexus LX 450
(All LX 450 models)
EBC Green Stuff Brake Pads - Rear Pads - Full Set
1997 Lexus LX 450
(All LX 450 models)
EBC Sport Rotors - Front Rotor Set
1997 Lexus LX 450
(All LX 450 models)
EBC Sport Rotors - Rear Rotor Set
1997 Lexus LX 450
(All LX 450 models)

x2 on EBC. We run their rotors (only) on the Canguro Racing 200 Series with fantastic performance. For aftermarket brakes on 80/100/200, EBC or DBA is my go to.
 

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