That's what I would like to know... It seems to me that if a FJ62 t-case will bolt up, then you could use a Toy-box and a FJ62 case. That would solve all of my problems!
Part Time 4WD Conversion Owners
- Thread starter TOY350
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That's what I would like to know... It seems to me that if a FJ62 t-case will bolt up, then you could use a Toy-box and a FJ62 case. That would solve all of my problems!
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
please let me know what said Boby about cuting the birf .. I vote for this solution.
I did not see where the question of using an FJ62 Transfer case was ever answered. In fact, why not do a whole diff/tranny swap from a 62 to make it a seemless Toyota install? (I am completely ignorant as to why or why not this would work.)
Kris
87 Turbo 4Runner
88 Turbo Conversion X-Cab 4WD
Shopping for an FJ80 for our Soccer Mom.
Kris
87 Turbo 4Runner
88 Turbo Conversion X-Cab 4WD
Shopping for an FJ80 for our Soccer Mom.
alia176
SILVER Star
I'm ignorant as well, does the 62 and the 80 share the front diff too?
One thing about the 62 Tcase, does it have a traditional lever on the floor or is it a vacuum activated doo hickey?
One thing about the 62 Tcase, does it have a traditional lever on the floor or is it a vacuum activated doo hickey?
powderpig
SILVER Star
The tranny is the same family (early 80/fj62) Both are a 440 then a 442(93 and up). The fj 62 440's have a long tail shaft that the transfer case is built around (just like the 60, split), Where the 80 series 440 has a spud shaft (short tail shaft), that the 80 series t-case is slid on as one unit.
So thinking about this, you would need to switch the bell housing from the 80 tranny to the 62 tranny to gain what you are talking about(seemless toyota stuff), but this will not totally get you a way to bolt up the toy box, length is a problem. you will need to have the fuel tank shortened or removed for this mod to fit.
No the 62 does not share the same front diff, one is a 9.5 and the other is a 8 inch(or metric =). take a guess as to which fits what years?
To make hubs fit and the birfs from the later 80 work properly on spacing, you will need to space out the locking hub. If you space the birf right, the shaft of the birf will then but up against the locking hub housing, not allowing the hub to mate to the steel section(I am refering to the asian hub system).
Now the early birfs will work seemlessly with the locking hubs as they are .250" shorter and pose no problems, but finding them may be a problem.
good luck
So thinking about this, you would need to switch the bell housing from the 80 tranny to the 62 tranny to gain what you are talking about(seemless toyota stuff), but this will not totally get you a way to bolt up the toy box, length is a problem. you will need to have the fuel tank shortened or removed for this mod to fit.
No the 62 does not share the same front diff, one is a 9.5 and the other is a 8 inch(or metric =). take a guess as to which fits what years?
To make hubs fit and the birfs from the later 80 work properly on spacing, you will need to space out the locking hub. If you space the birf right, the shaft of the birf will then but up against the locking hub housing, not allowing the hub to mate to the steel section(I am refering to the asian hub system).
Now the early birfs will work seemlessly with the locking hubs as they are .250" shorter and pose no problems, but finding them may be a problem.
good luck
Would it be possible to swap tailshafts?
So I have Aisin hubs and stock birfs....so I can't just buy Longfields and throw them in?
How come a spacer like the AVM hubs have wont work? Where is a spacer needed?
If all else fails I'll just take both the Longs and stock birfs to a machine shop and tell them to make the Long match the factory birfs....but that's more money I don't have.
If all else fails I'll just take both the Longs and stock birfs to a machine shop and tell them to make the Long match the factory birfs....but that's more money I don't have.
So the spacer with the Slee kit is basically held between the c-clip inner hub gear to keep the birf from sliding into the diff? This spacer is only needed with the later/longer birfs and Longs and can only be used with AVM hubs that have a longer hub body?
If I were to avoid modding the Longs, would I need to space the hub face away from the hub body or space the hub body away from the wheel hub?
If I were to avoid modding the Longs, would I need to space the hub face away from the hub body or space the hub body away from the wheel hub?
Correct
What about the second part?
All of it was correct! However, Bobby Long told me to grab an angle grinder and cut a new snap ring grove... That sounds pretty cheap to me.
Done it yet?
Nope... Asians are sitting on my shelf waiting for Long's hub gears and money for the part time kit. With the way my life has been lately, it will never get done.
I probably have some answers for this thread as I have longfields and a part time kit. The longfield birfs will only fit onto Aisin hubs when they are cut down 8mm and re grooved for the snap ring 8mm further down. (However in Australia the newer 80 series DX models had slightly different Aisin Hubs designed for the longer birf and they will fit on with no modifications, you can tell these hubs apart from the smaller ones as the base of the hub has crescent shaped cutouts between the stud holes) I has my longfield machined down so they would fit onto 60 series Aisin hubs.
You do NOT have to pull the tranfer case out to do the conversion only take the rear case off and do not pull the gears completetly out or you will have a hell of a time trying to get them back in as the detent rod for the Hi-Low shifter will not want to slide back in.
The reason why I went to part time is that I smashed my CDL to pieces and I would much rather keep a spare hub and replace that in 10mins than trying to replace a CDL so all the comments about the transfer being indestructable and a "fuse" in the driveline being a mistake is untrue in my experience.
Here is a pic of my destroyed CDL
I didnt want to do that again, so it was a pretty easy choice to go part time.
You do NOT have to pull the tranfer case out to do the conversion only take the rear case off and do not pull the gears completetly out or you will have a hell of a time trying to get them back in as the detent rod for the Hi-Low shifter will not want to slide back in.
The reason why I went to part time is that I smashed my CDL to pieces and I would much rather keep a spare hub and replace that in 10mins than trying to replace a CDL so all the comments about the transfer being indestructable and a "fuse" in the driveline being a mistake is untrue in my experience.
Here is a pic of my destroyed CDL
I didnt want to do that again, so it was a pretty easy choice to go part time.
Now im really considering this since my truck is my DD. SInce i wheel it a bit i've installed a Aussie locker in the rear. And now im starting to decide i dont have a VC in my t-case so that saves me one step.
How would this situation be different than a open/e-locker equipped 80? Im venturing to guess that the rear will act very much the same BUT if i do the PT, can't I then throw another aussie in the front. Since i will have hubs the truck will act as follows:
cdl off = 2wd = rear locked w/aussie
cdl on = 4wd w/hubs open = locked R, open F
cdl on = 4wd w/hubs locked = locked F,R
On a quick bonehead question, what about a t-case swap? It looks like this doesn't work but why?
Appreciate the help as i put my head around this...or attempt to
How would this situation be different than a open/e-locker equipped 80? Im venturing to guess that the rear will act very much the same BUT if i do the PT, can't I then throw another aussie in the front. Since i will have hubs the truck will act as follows:
cdl off = 2wd = rear locked w/aussie
cdl on = 4wd w/hubs open = locked R, open F
cdl on = 4wd w/hubs locked = locked F,R
Anyone know if this is correct?
Not sure what you're gettin at, but the benefit of part time 4wd is that if you want to run an aussie or other lunchbox locker in the front, you can leave the hubs locked and unlock the cdl in between obstacles, the front locker will make noise as it "ratchets" but it will be effectively unlocked, removing extra strain from front axle parts and steering.
This is how my 40 is setup, works great for me. Not worth the extra $600 or so to have another ARB for the front.
Edit: obviously anytime the hubs are unlocked, you won't know the locker is up there...
This is how my 40 is setup, works great for me. Not worth the extra $600 or so to have another ARB for the front.
Edit: obviously anytime the hubs are unlocked, you won't know the locker is up there...
