Part Time 4WD Conversion Owners

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I did the conversion a year ago with the kit from Slee.

I am very happy I did for a few reasons.

+1-2 MPG all around. Larger increase on highway. Probably the only mod that can legitimatly pay for itself.

Much smoother. I have about 5" of lift. The only way to get front driveline vibe gone without an expensive CV shaft is to cut n turn the front axle and I don't have time for that.

I can run different size tires if necessary.

I tow with my 80 regularly, and the power difference between AWD and RWD is noticable.

I would definatly do it again. The only inconvenience is having to lock hubs for 4wd. Not really a big deal in the scheme of things.

Do you have any part numbers or should I just contact Chirsto?

This has been on my list for so long...
 
Slee - Drivetrain - Drive Shafts

part_time_250.webp
part_time_250.webp
 
I'm still on the fence on this mod...
 
Can one use parts from a Tcase from FJ62 for this project and would it save any money? Or about a complete swap with a Tcase from a 62? Just curious....
 
This maybe a dumb question. Most of mine are. I've read it doesnt do much for MPG. But will it allow you to cruise at higher freeway speeds. Or would it improve you abilty to climbs grades and passes?
 
probably not. all it does is change from awd traction, to rwd traction. anything on dry tarmac would probably not see any benefit from a PT conversion.

that being said, here's a 97 LX that is part time. oh, and its also 10 speeds. AAND, it gets 20 mpg on the hwy :lol: :lol:
 
This maybe a dumb question. Most of mine are. I've read it doesnt do much for MPG. But will it allow you to cruise at higher freeway speeds. Or would it improve you abilty to climbs grades and passes?

No...
 
yes..i knew that heh. anyone that claims to get 18mpg city in a gasser 80 landcruiser has completely lost the plot and is an 1D10T. i was going to email the seller...but meh..couldnt be bothered.
 
im getting some aftermarket axles and i am looking at this part time kit since your not supposed to daily drive on the longfields and newfields.
my main concern is if i put locking hubs on , can i just used my cdl switch? im not sure exactly what is going on when you use that switch. will it over work it drviing around like that? right now i have a busted short side birf and i have been limiting my driving with the cdl on .... but as you know it wont move at all with it on.
also this groove your talking about doing on the shaft for the proper ring location. how do you know where to put that groove and do you think it will be needed with the longfields or newfields?

thanks guys
 
im getting some aftermarket axles and i am looking at this part time kit since your not supposed to daily drive on the longfields and newfields.
my main concern is if i put locking hubs on , can i just used my cdl switch?


with the hubs unlocked and cdl on all the stuff will still be spinning. You need to pull the drive shaft also.

aaron
 
that what i was thinking. will that put any extra straing on the center diff?
i mean when you lock the front or rear diff you obviously cnat drive on pavement as it hops and dosnt want to steer from being locked. is driving on the center diff locked bad for it?
thanks
 
I have heard many people say that is does not hurt to drive with CDL switch on even on pavement. You do bring up an interesting point of the Newfields and Longfields. I never even thought of that advantage with going to Ptime.
 
im getting some aftermarket axles and i am looking at this part time kit since your not supposed to daily drive on the longfields and newfields.
my main concern is if i put locking hubs on , can i just used my cdl switch? im not sure exactly what is going on when you use that switch. will it over work it drviing around like that? right now i have a busted short side birf and i have been limiting my driving with the cdl on .... but as you know it wont move at all with it on.
also this groove your talking about doing on the shaft for the proper ring location. how do you know where to put that groove and do you think it will be needed with the longfields or newfields?

thanks guys

Bottom line: don't go half-way.

You shouldn't need to make a groove if you are buying the part time kit (from Slee). The hubs are built for 91 to 93 birfs (shorter splined), but if you buy after market birfs then they are the longer splined ones. With those ones you will need to use the spacer rings that come in the kit to ensure the axles don't float laterally inside the housing.

If you do not install the spool in the transfer case but put the hubs on 4x2 you will have to have the cdl on. And there is really no advantage to that. While your wear on the birfs will be slightly less. The wear on the hubs will increase a lot because you are spinning the inner ring in the hub independent of the hub outer shell. This causes the brass bushing on the locking hub to wear out. This is something that a lot of FJ40 owners have talked about in the 40 section and I ran into when converting to front disk brakes on my 75. I Hope this helps.
 
Such a thing as a HF1A with a viscous coupler? (I am thinking no, 2wd/4wd/awd)
 
Not that I know of, but the new Multi-Mode 4-wheel drive in 4 runner and I think the Sequia is supposed to be like that.
 
New twist on part time

Now im really considering this since my truck is my DD. SInce i wheel it a bit i've installed a Aussie locker in the rear. And now im starting to decide i dont have a VC in my t-case so that saves me one step.

How would this situation be different than a open/e-locker equipped 80? Im venturing to guess that the rear will act very much the same BUT if i do the PT, can't I then throw another aussie in the front. Since i will have hubs the truck will act as follows:
cdl off = 2wd = rear locked w/aussie
cdl on = 4wd w/hubs open = locked R, open F
cdl on = 4wd w/hubs locked = locked F,R

On a quick bonehead question, what about a t-case swap? It looks like this doesn't work but why?

Appreciate the help as i put my head around this...or attempt to :idea:
 
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if the 80 is a DD having hubs seems cute but for wheeling hubs are just one more thing to break. most commenting in this thread have well modifies trucks and wheel. only reason i would want the part time kit is to turn off the birfs and r&p is case of their breakage so i could drive home in RWD only. But as a whole i dont believe in "fuse" theories. a fuse is another name for weak link in the drivetrain. the full time LC case is fairly bombproof. now the full time jeep GC case is another story
 
Bottom line: don't go half-way.

While your wear on the birfs will be slightly less. The wear on the hubs will increase a lot because you are spinning the inner ring in the hub independent of the hub outer shell. This causes the brass bushing on the locking hub to wear out. This is something that a lot of FJ40 owners have talked about in the 40 section and I ran into when converting to front disk brakes on my 75. I Hope this helps.

This is a good point. Spindles are expensive!
 
I want to do PT to save wear and tear on my Longfields. However, for Bobby Long to honor the warrenty, you have to run an Asian hub with his Chromo hub gear. The problem is, you can't run Asians even with the spacer. You either need to cut a new snap ring grove (not sure if this will void the warrenty or not, I need to call Bobby) or find a way to space the hub away from the axle...
 

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