Parallel 4 link front for my 80 (1 Viewer)

[kidglove13]

A radius arm is a radius arm is a radius arm. Dont matter if its a Rubicon express or OEM Toyota. Its still a radius arm, and unless you change the length of the arm, its not going to perform any differently.


kidglove13

If you want to do 2 uppers and 2 lowers and a Panhard. DO IT!!!

I spent alot of time under the truck today and the problem is space on the drives side, it is tight

How much seperation should I have at the axle if it were a 4 link?

I figured about 8-9 inches give or take, that is it will fit in the drivers side.

 

[cruiserruf]

A radius arm is a radius arm is a radius arm. Dont matter if its a Rubicon express or OEM Toyota. Its still a radius arm, and unless you change the length of the arm, its not going to perform any differently.


kidglove13

If you want to do 2 uppers and 2 lowers and a Panhard. DO IT!!!

yes yes, a radius arm is a radius arm but the radius arm setup like the rubicon express have seemed to work better than the oem. binkfab's kit looks promising. lots of talk that 3 links will work on the 80 and maintain drivability but no ones done it. except js93 but he mentions body lean as well.

i'm no expert by any means but just saying from observation

 

[4WheelUnderground]

I figured about 8-9 inches give or take, that is it will fit in the drivers side.

No less than 6"s

 

[4WheelUnderground]

yes yes, a radius arm is a radius arm but the radius arm setup like the rubicon express have seemed to work better than the oem. binkfab's kit looks promising. lots of talk that 3 links will work on the 80 and maintain drivability but no ones done it. except js93 but he mentions body lean as well.

There is varience in how you mount them to the axle. OEM's go under the axle, while it seems many of the Rubicon Express ones dont. The flattening of the link would help. Almost like simulating less lift.

As for js93's build, i'm not familar with it.

 

[Dusty]

not all RA's are the same. show me an 80 series oe front end that flexes half that of a rubicon express TJ (under the same load)

 

[Booger weldz]

yes yes, a radius arm is a radius arm but the radius arm setup like the rubicon express have seemed to work better than the oem. binkfab's kit looks promising. lots of talk that 3 links will work on the 80 and maintain drivability but no ones done it. except js93 but he mentions body lean as well.

i'm no expert by any means but just saying from observation

Ive got abt three weeks of daily driving and two wheeling trips on the binksfab upper link setup. The trails ive run are 75-90 miles away and the roads are twist 65mph stuff where any on road issues would be felt imediately. It works great and its easy enough to do urself and save a few bucks. All it is is an upper link w weldon brackets, then u remove the rear bolts on both "radius arms", so they act like a conventional control arm...

Ive had seven different people drive it and two people said it had slightly more body roll but less than ur average leaf sprung sas 4runner. I keep the rear sway bar on it always...

 

[Tapage]

There is varience in how you mount them to the axle. OEM's go under the axle, while it seems many of the Rubicon Express ones dont. The flattening of the link would help. Almost like simulating less lift..

few folks in Australia done that ( fliping 80 series control arms ) to the top of the axle ..

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

few folks in Australia done that ( fliping 80 series control arms ) to the top of the axle ..

With the 80 control arms on top you still will need to address the normal 80 control arm binding issue if you plan on flexing like a Rubicon.

 

[Tapage]

With the 80 control arms on top you still will need to address the normal 80 control arm binding issue if you plan on flexing like a Rubicon.

agree ..

over the axle control arms + control arm pin mod ( 3 pins on the axle ) must help ..

 

[kidglove13]

I am still thinking hard about this
I want to open up the front end, but not like gobs of articulation, just more than what is already there
I think that with a lift 80 and castor correction and all that the increased angle on the radius arms limits the front end even more than at stock height.
I think if you can get the front end to open up a little more than the poor mans three link, which I do not like it will perform even better than it already does
I know it is not a full blown rock crawler but, I do think it can be better
We will see
Once I pick up my new little DD gas miser and the wheeling season winds down here I will start on it
This will be more of a winter project, but it will happen.
I like thinking outside the box, it is fun

 

[4WheelUnderground]

few folks in Australia done that ( fliping 80 series control arms ) to the top of the axle ..

That wont change the performance any. Its the mounting holes/location that make the change in performance. Simply changing the shape of the arm doesn't change the swing of it, and its the swing that matters. You have to relocate the mounting brackets if you want change the suspension.

Flattening out the arms or returning them to something closer to what stock was, gets you a flatter arm and will perform better and bind less.

 

[kidglove13]

I think that is why some of the folks in OZ have put the arms upside down on top of the axle because it will return the to be closer to what the stock angle was
But I still think that you will run into the same binding issue even if you gain alittle bit more flex
I think that it would be more work to flip the arms than to do a link job

 

[kbahus]

That setup on Pirate looks promising, maybe it will turn out to be a good option. Time will tell I guess.

 

[4WheelUnderground]

I think that is why some of the folks in OZ have put the arms upside down on top of the axle because it will return the to be closer to what the stock angle was
But I still think that you will run into the same binding issue even if you gain alittle bit more flex
I think that it would be more work to flip the arms than to do a link job

So long as they relocate the brackets on the axle, then yes its good cheap fix. But yes you still have the binding issues because its the same arm.

 

[Booger weldz]

So long as they relocate the brackets on the axle, then yes its good cheap fix. But yes you still have the binding issues because its the same arm.

Articulation on the front is pretty sad. The rear works great on these...the front binds up petty quick and comes to a hault quickly. The stock radius arm are long and mounted flat enough(even w my four inch lift) that geometry stays in check without creating excessive oversteer. The rear suspension has a decent amount of understeer which keeps things in check overall and thsts why our three link is easy, affective and simple

 

[4WheelUnderground]

Ive got abt three weeks of daily driving and two wheeling trips on the binksfab upper link setup. The trails ive run are 75-90 miles away and the roads are twist 65mph stuff where any on road issues would be felt imediately. It works great and its easy enough to do urself and save a few bucks. All it is is an upper link w weldon brackets, then u remove the rear bolts on both "radius arms", so they act like a conventional control arm...

Ive had seven different people drive it and two people said it had slightly more body roll but less than ur average leaf sprung sas 4runner. I keep the rear sway bar on it always...

So its a 3link then.

 

[Booger weldz]

So its a 3link then.

Yes sir, but my brackets arent as badass lookin as the ones in ur kit! U definitely took ur time desining those, great work! The 80 is simple as the frame and axletube are flat where the brackets go, but bink always ads a bit of flare/style, sofar were buried in front bumper and slider orders

 

[4WheelUnderground]

Sweet deal.

So a touch more body lean you say???

 

[4WheelUnderground]

Yes sir, but my brackets arent as badass lookin as the ones in ur kit! U definitely took ur time desining those, great work!

And Thank you for that, I really appreicate comments like that.

Last I checked, you weren't to bad your self.

 

[kidglove13]

Articulation on the front is pretty sad. The rear works great on these...the front binds up petty quick and comes to a hault quickly. The stock radius arm are long and mounted flat enough(even w my four inch lift) that geometry stays in check without creating excessive oversteer. The rear suspension has a decent amount of understeer which keeps things in check overall and thsts why our three link is easy, affective and simple

He sent me picks of what you guys fabbed up for that 3 link
My question is this:
Say when you droop oneside of the axle where the top link is and it is rotating the axle backwards doen't the axle start to hit the back of the radius arm and cause binding? I would think that would happen since you are rotating the axle from the front bolts on the radius arms and they are still under the axle.
I believe what you saying about it
I am just trying to understand the mechanics of it because in theory you would think that the axle would rotate back and hit the control arm causing it not rotate anymore and then putting an extreme amount of force on the front mounts, the axle is still limited by the radius arm with regards to how far it will rotate back
If you were to droop the side opposite the top link that side would droop great
I did notice in your pictures on Pirate that you only show drooping the passenger side which is opposite the top link
How about posting some pics of it drooping the side with the top link the drivers side
I dont think it will droop as well as the other side i think it will have a axle to radius arm contact issue

Maybe he can explain it better