P0325 CEL Knock Sensor connector repair (1 Viewer)

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That sure looks like the right connector. Wish i'd known that was available a few months ago.

I bought the 4-runner knock sensor harness and hacked it up to get a pigtail with that connector, then soldered it in.
 
That sure looks like the right connector. Wish i'd known that was available a few months ago.

I bought the 4-runner knock sensor harness and hacked it up to get a pigtail with that connector, then soldered it in.

Started a thread HERE, but they are indeed the correct plug.

Order them with all 3 options and they come fully assembled with a 6" pigtail ready to solder in.
 
I know this thread is ancient,,, Can anyone verify the parts number

82219-35010

I can find the part with this number, but it states the part does no fit my 97 450
 
I hope this thread lives on. I just signed up on IH8MUD so I could post this. Thanks to the original poster.

I broke my rear sensor unknowingly while doing the PHH replacement (again, thanks to all the posts) and found that I'd completely broken off the connector. There was still the little copper stub on the sensor but the plastic connector just crumbled as I tried to take it apart. I put a crimp on blade connector on the original wire and smashed it to fit the stub on the sensor. However, light came on again.

So I installed a new sensor from Autozone (about $100) and plugged my flattened connector into the new sensor, sure that I'd fixed it. However, same result after a 1/2 mile of the light coming back on.

Ordered the 82219-35010 wire assembly ($13) from Amazon and on receipt gently disassembled it to discover its secrets. In the end, just cut it in half:) I kept just the metal shielding and crimped on a barrel connector. Wrapped it with electrical tape, and then crimped it onto the factory wire. I hid the barrel connector inside the factory wrap that I had gently split to reveal more wire. I wrapped that with electrical tape and then plugged in for a test. After miles of driving I can finally claim success. Sincere thanks to all who posted here!
 
So I redid my repair that I’d mentioned elsewhere. I actually soldered everything inside the engine because I’m weird and didn’t like the crimp connector. Still getting the 325 code. I dunno if it’s my ohms getting all messed up, or if that $30 knock sensor isn’t cutting the mustard. Not sure where to turn now.
 
I was also doing some research here on the knock sensor codes....I had recently threw the code and all my stuff was intact (fixed a burnt wire a few years ago). Read a post where these rigs hate crappy gas+under load, usually uphill+hot weather. Exactly what I had just done. Got some s***ty gas in Borrego Springs, drove up a long steep grade pulling my little trailer in warm weather. I just unhooked the main battery for a while and let it all reset itself. No more code. The truck never ran poorly so I knew it was something silly. Fine ever since.
 
So I redid my repair that I’d mentioned elsewhere. I actually soldered everything inside the engine because I’m weird and didn’t like the crimp connector. Still getting the 325 code. I dunno if it’s my ohms getting all messed up, or if that $30 knock sensor isn’t cutting the mustard. Not sure where to turn now.
I’m running in to same problem. I had a severed wire a couple years ago on knock sensor 1, so I replaced the connector with a water tight butt connector. Last week got a p0325 code again, so figured it was the actual knock sensor. I happen to have an aftermarket $30 sensor so I threw it in. Nope, getting same code. So I pulled the butt connector off and soldered everything together as it appeared there was some “looseness” in my crimp. Tested it out and damnit code p0325 again!


Has anyone had issues with the wiring upstream causing this? Is my $30 sensor the problem?
 
I used an aftermarket one as well with same results. Replaced with OEM and cel went away.
 
I’m running in to same problem. I had a severed wire a couple years ago on knock sensor 1, so I replaced the connector with a water tight butt connector. Last week got a p0325 code again, so figured it was the actual knock sensor. I happen to have an aftermarket $30 sensor so I threw it in. Nope, getting same code. So I pulled the butt connector off and soldered everything together as it appeared there was some “looseness” in my crimp. Tested it out and damnit code p0325 again!


Has anyone had issues with the wiring upstream causing this? Is my $30 sensor the problem?
Get an OEM sensor. I have a photo somewhere comparing them, but they are way different. I replaced mine with a used OEM and it went away immediately and I haven’t seen it since.
 
I think I might be Number 5 thanks for the old post. It helps out again...... I can’t believe I’m 5 again
 
These old threads are great. broke the rear knock sensor and ripped the connector from the wiring harness taking it apart :( Luckily have a spare engine to scavenge the sensor from.
 
I had to replace both wires from both knock sensors to the ECU. The heat/cool cycle over all those years finally broke the single conductor knock sensor cable.

So, just a quick reminder to check for continuity between the ecu connection and at the knock sensor plug before spending money on new OEM knock sensors.
 
I don't know if I'm #7 or #8 but thanks alot @NLXTACY !! I'm 10 hours away from home, in the snow.

Found this thread while on the side of the road. I dont have my soldering iron but I used weatherproof crimp connectors and heat shrink.

It worked. Awesome :clap:
PXL_20201121_201912118.jpg
 
NIL for who this post helped. Thanks OP! Pulling the wheel and skirts and snaking in from the side made attaching the new wire relatively effortless for anyone wondering. Getting a good angle with a socket on the sensor was probably the hardest part.
 

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