!OY Coolermans 2/71 Build

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In the mean time I have been finishing up the engine. I rebuilt the alternator and blinged it up a bit, figured out the mini-truck power steering pump mounting bracket and belt adjuster, welded that up and powder coated it and the pump pulley, and painted the pump. ( I will have a full write up on the web site about how I did the power steering pump using all Toyota mini-truck parts and very little welding.)

I installed the FJ60 dizzy and side cover, re-wired the igniter to dizzy cable and put new heat sink grease under the igniter module while I was in there. Painted the coil with high gloss black epoxy and powder coated the coil mounting bracket.

Some other projects I have been working on:

Tore down a 1976 2F starter (non-gear reduction) with the intention to clean it up. (it was FULL of sand and mud!) However I discovered the PO painted the damn thing with what I believe to be black POR-15! If that is what it is it survived 48 hours in the de-rust tank, being baked at 600 degrees for an hour, and finally sand blasting! What ever that stuff is it is tough! The plan now (I cannot get all the POR-15 off the nose cone) is to put it back together and use it as a core for a gear reduction starter. I may go ahead and restore my original 1971 starter just so I can do a write up on it.

Thats all for now!
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I'm not sure that a 2F looked that good off the showroom floor. Looks great...
 
Very awesome indeed. My only ctitique is that every time I started reading a paragraph another awesome pic would load up...arghhhh.

Nice cruiser work.!!
 
I'm not sure that a 2F looked that good off the showroom floor. Looks great...

Thanks, but ya see, that is the best kept secret of all... ( It's actually a 71 F engine ;))

I moved the F alternator to the passenger side using a 2F bracket so I could mount the mini-truck power steering pump using the F alternator bracket, had to use a 2F water pump and fan to go with the FJ60 3 groove pulley so all the belts would line up and used the 2F valve cover to eliminate valve cover leaks and add some further bling. It will use the original F air cleaner. Dizzy is a 1987 FJ60 unit recurved by Jim C. for the F engine along with the igniter/coil. Side cover is from the same FJ60.

Headers are Downey, carb is a 71 rebuilt by Jim C and intake is a 71 also.

So I guess I have a F1.3? :grinpimp:
 
Hi All:

"Coolerman," incredible build! The attention you are putting into this rig is unbelievable! :beer:

Thanks for sharing with us!

Regards,

Alan
 
great job there coolerman are you gonna get it muddy when your done .let me know if that hinge thing doesnt work out i may have 1or 2 you can have good luck
 
great job there coolerman are you gonna get it muddy when your done .let me know if that hinge thing doesnt work out i may have 1or 2 you can have good luck

Hinge thing? What are you referring to? :confused:

Though it will remain mostly stock, (33" tires max) I do plan on wheeling this truck.

This is my learning truck. After he's running and stable I plan to start looking for a 1974-78 to actually restore. :D
 
Thanks for the updates Coolerman. I took your advice and started my frameoff repair a few weeks ago on my first FJ (just took delivery of it on Jan 8th). I refer to your site often. This noob appreciates your attention to detail. Keep up the great work!
 
Thanks for the updates Coolerman. I took your advice and started my frameoff repair a few weeks ago on my first FJ (just took delivery of it on Jan 8th). I refer to your site often. This noob appreciates your attention to detail. Keep up the great work!

Great! You made a wise decision early on to do the frame off. Don't forget to take lots of reference pics as you disassemble. I keep an old laptop in the garage with all my pics on it just so I can refer to them when putting stuff back together. Let me know if you need any advice. It may not be 100% accurate but it's free! :D
 
I'm definitely taking plenty of photos and grouping them according to the job. I'm also bagging the hardware for each separate component. Using lots of bags but I'm sure it'll help in the long run. If my build turns out even half as good as yours, I'll be happy. Thanks again!
 
Thanks, but ya see, that is the best kept secret of all... ( It's actually a 71 F engine ;))

I moved the F alternator to the passenger side using a 2F bracket so I could mount the mini-truck power steering pump using the F alternator bracket, had to use a 2F water pump and fan to go with the FJ60 3 groove pulley so all the belts would line up and used the 2F valve cover to eliminate valve cover leaks and add some further bling. It will use the original F air cleaner. Dizzy is a 1987 FJ60 unit recurved by Jim C. for the F engine along with the igniter/coil. Side cover is from the same FJ60.

Headers are Downey, carb is a 71 rebuilt by Jim C and intake is a 71 also.

So I guess I have a F1.3? :grinpimp:

It's "Frankencruiser"!!!
 
WOW that looks awsome! Do you have any more pics of the engine? I was wondering about doing the same swaps, 2F valve cover, mini truck pump, and alt swap!
thanks for the pic info!
:)
 
OK, once again time for an update.

I spent last weekend putting the motor back in the frame. All I can say was it was a hell of a lot easier putting it back, compared to taking it out!

I started by transferring the engine from the stand to the hoist. Learning from my rigging mistakes in the past I made up a new sling using two shackles. Having the two engine lift hooks sure makes a difference! The shackles fit on them perfectly.

After the engine was on the hoist I was able to access the rear main seal and pilot bearing for replacement.

I scrounged around and found a large carriage bolt, a very large washer with a deep dimple in the middle, and a couple of nuts and built this pilot bearing removal tool based on a thread here on MUD.

It worked great! Sorry, no pic of it in action, but it's pretty self explanatory. Insert the bolt head through the center of the bearing so it drops down and catches the inside edge of the bearing then tighten the nut pulling the large washer against the crank. The bearing is pulled into the dimple in the washer. A large socket or a piece of pipe would also work.
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Next I removed the main rear seal. I should have done this at the time I had the oil pan off, but had a brain fart! :frown:

I cleaned up the seal and pilot bearing area with a Dremel tool equipped with a wire brush, then wiped everything down. Next I coated the inner lip of the seal with grease and the outer shell with a thin coat of high temp RTV and carefully drove it home. It was quite easy to seat. I used a machinist plastic faced hammer and just worked my way around never letting one side get too far in.

The new pilot bearing was given a coat of anti-seize on the outer shell then driven in with a socket. Finally I used a 10mm x 1.25 tap and chased the tapped holes in the crank to remove any sealant left there.

Next up was installing the 4 sp bell housing and rear motor mounts. I had previously chased all the holes in the bell housing and block to clean out any powder coating or paint.
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I gathered all the motor mounts and bolts, set them where I could reach them and started sliding the motor into the frame.

Joy! Oh joy!

No problems! Nothing hit, fell, tore or caused me ANY grief!

Once the motor was mostly aligned I lowered it until the drivers side rear mount was touching and ran the bolt through the pucks and mount. I moved to the passenger side rear and wiggled that bolt through.

The front mounts I left completely loose so they could be easily moved around. They dropped right in place! Once all the bolts were in place I snugged them down. Finally! A major part of this rebuild is done!

Next up will be mounting the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and clutch release arm and slave cylinder. Then the tranny and finally the T-case. Stay tuned!
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