Builds Owyhee J.A. BJ75 Troopy Journal

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I'm no carpenter...went back and forth between 80/20 and plywood design. Even entertained welding the frame up out of 1/2" square tubing. I figured I'd most likely be re-doing it in the future as I seem to do and just went with plywood for now. 80/20 is too expensive for me to use as a prototype.

I made the base box out of 1/2" plywood as I thought it would be lighter and plenty stout, which it is...but (there's always a but), the hinges, drawer slides and hardware are meant for 3/4 ply. I had to make the lids out of 3/4 or else sandwich in a piece of 1/4" for the hinge pocket.

I think the next one I build for the passenger's side will be out of 3/4. I managed to get the first one made with one 4x8 piece of 1/2" ply ($50) and 1/3 of a 4x8 piece of 3/4 ($70).

Drawer slides were $29.
Southco Latches $60 for a four pack
Hinges $15 for six
Kreg Jig for hinges $27
Hardware to screw it together was $17 (I glued and screwed it together) I thought about using a Kreg pocket screw jig to put it together, but that hardware is also meant for 3/4" ply, not 1/2"...as it is I had to grind the tips of some of the screws off so they wouldn't protrude through the 1/2" ply.

About $250 total for material and hardware including the jig that I can use for the next one. And I have enough 3/4 left over to do lids for the next one. I used Sande plywood, which is a bit soft but has a nice finish. I put 3-coats of an outdoor rated polyurethane finish on (another challenge in the winter as it hasn't been above freezing for a week I think) which I hope will toughen up the surface a bit.

I'll need to get some cushions made or make some cushions myself. How do people keep cushions in place? Velcro or magnets? I was thinking I could put a magnet in the cushion and a metal plate on the lids. And on the back-rest cushion a magnet will hold the cushion up on the side by sticking to the interior steel panel of the truck.
 
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Here's my concept. I wanted to keep both sides low, about the same height as the stock seats, as I can still sit back there comfortably with the top closed. l lost a bit of headroom with the new top, so I do have to slouch a bit, but I'll deal with that for now.

INTERIOR CONCEPT.jpg

View of other side. No drawers, just cubbies to keep it simple. Not shown/modeled are the cargo tracks that run down the center of the aisle and are surface mounted. These would most likely interfere with drawer slides, or the drawers would need to be elevated about an inch and I'd lose some storage volume.

Concept-2.webp
 
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Some pictures of the build progression. I've used good woodshops in the past and really miss having access to all the tools and space...I made do with my janky garage and tools on this one. One reason I drag my feet when it comes to cabinets/wood working.

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Here's my concept. I wanted to keep both sides low, about the same height as the stock seats, as I can still sit back there comfortably with the top closed. l lost a bit of headroom with the new top, so I do have to slouch a bit, but I'll deal with that for now.

View attachment 3820215
View of other side. No drawers, just cubbies to keep it simple. Not shown/modeled are the cargo tracks that run down the center of the aisle and are surface mounted. These would most likely interfere with drawer slides, or the drawers would need to be elevated about an inch and I'd lose some storage volume.

View attachment 3820220
What'd you mock this up in?
 
SolidWorks
 
It's official, I'm a Poserlander...
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Got these knock-off tracks for Xmas. The toggle bolts on the Alu-Innovations table were a bit off, I had to drill new holes for both toggle bolts.
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I also added a couple pieces of high-density foam with VHB tape to the bottom where the tracks rest.
 
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Just cheap Amazon nets the screws were too long for the wood bed, I just cut them down a 1/4".
 
So my front left birf started slinging spooge. Figured I had a bad inner axle seal, so I ordered up a gasket kit sans wheel bearings as I thought I'd just done the front knuckles recently. Turns out it's been 9-years since I'd done them. Time flies.

Got into the front left and discovered the outer wheel bearing had completely disintegrated. Autozone had them in stock, so I just got them local.

Got the Marlin inner axle seals as it looks like it might seal better than the stock seal.

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Passenger side wasn't much better. Both bearings were intact, but there was no grease in the knuckle, just a gray soup.

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Awhile back I rewired my 12v panel to be switched with the ignition, well I got tired of having to reset my radio every time I got in it...

I was going to add this blue sea panel that has two circuits, but it was too big for where I wanted to mount it. This where the old one was mounted and I wanted to keep the new one in the same place.
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So I got two of these compact Blue Sea 5045 panels. They fit nicely in the same spot using the same mounting brackets I'd used for the old panel.
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I split the loads up, the boost, EGT, Tach, trailer light plug converter, fuel transfer pump and future sub-tank fuel gage are on the switched panel and my radio and the new top lights (another reason to reconfigure as I had to leave the key on in order for the pop-top lights to work) are on the always hot panel.
 
Awhile back I rewired my 12v panel to be switched with the ignition, well I got tired of having to reset my radio every time I got in it...

I was going to add this blue sea panel that has two circuits, but it was too big for where I wanted to mount it. This where the old one was mounted and I wanted to keep the new one in the same place.
View attachment 3850854
So I got two of these compact Blue Sea 5045 panels. They fit nicely in the same spot using the same mounting brackets I'd used for the old panel.
View attachment 3850859
I split the loads up, the boost, EGT, Tach, trailer light plug converter, fuel transfer pump and future sub-tank fuel gage are on the switched panel and my radio and the new top lights (another reason to reconfigure as I had to leave the key on in order for the pop-top lights to work) are on the always hot panel.
Looking good!
 
Just to keep track of things here in this thread, posted this up earlier this week.

 
More re-wiring of my panels. I had this panel mounted to the exterior driver's side of my battery box. It was difficult to see and connect loads to it so I moved it the wall of the troopy. I just have to disconnect the main + and ground wires when I pull the box out, all other wiring has an Anderson plug so it's pretty quick if/when I need to pull the battery box out.
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I also had to do some modifications to the cubby where I planned to put my stove. Devil is in the details, I didn't take into account the handle, latch and piano hinge on the stove and the cubby was too small, also the pocket hinges interfered as well.
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I removed the pocket hinges and put in a piano hinge, then took out some of the wood cross piece along the top and replaced it with some sheet metal.

Version two, the whole box probably needs to be 1/2"-3/4" taller and that cubby needs to be 1/2" wider. As it is, the stove will slide in from the end, but just barely. No problems accessing it from the lid, but I wanted to be able to get to it without opening the lid in case there's stuff lashed to the top.
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I also added a third bracket to hold this side in place. Utilized the seat mount bracket.
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And the other side is mounted to the track down the center, one forward and one aft.
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I 3D printed some nut-caps. I just acquired a 3D printer and am still trying to work out the bugs, quality is so-so.
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