Builds Owyhee J.A. BJ75 Troopy Journal

[svsisu]

Heat does lower the efficiency, but so do many other factors- type of silicon crystals, age of panel, a bit of shade across it, pore wiring practices, inefficient charge controllers (non mppt), and MOST importantly, not being 90* to the sun. I would say if it’s keeping up with the house loads, and it’s not from harbor freight, then it isn’t much of an issue.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I finally got one of the accessories that I purchased from Alu-Innovations installed...the rear door 'Versa Box'. I made a template of the box, taped it up to the door, then cut out what I needed to for the box to fit inside the door. Ended up needing to cut the long bolts holding the spare tire bracing on as well as they fouled the backside of the box.

Added some sound mat while I was in there.

I used M6 riv-nuts and of course, one of my holes for the nuts went right into the lower left brace on the door, so it didn't go in straight. Ended up wallowing out the hole in the box and adding a large washer to cover it up...

I'd like to put my small stove, fuel and kettle/pots as well as a couple coffee cups and some utensils. Not sure how I'll organize and hold them in there maybe add some bungee cord and shelves or some Pelican Case foam?

My wife made the comment "Didn't we already have a table there? And didn't it have a cutting board?" So I guess I need to add a cutting board. We did have the Front Runner table, which was a good table, I just wanted the added storage this one has.

 

[prwillard2]

I finally got one of the accessories that I purchased from Alu-Innovations installed...the rear door 'Versa Box'. I made a template of the box, taped it up to the door, then cut out what I needed to for the box to fit inside the door. Ended up needing to cut the long bolts holding the spare tire bracing on as well as they fouled the backside of the box.View attachment 3745558View attachment 3745557

Added some sound mat while I was in there.View attachment 3745562

I used M6 riv-nuts and of course, one of my holes for the nuts went right into the lower left brace on the door, so it didn't go in straight. Ended up wallowing out the hole in the box and adding a large washer to cover it up...

I'd like to put my small stove, fuel and kettle/pots as well as a couple coffee cups and some utensils. Not sure how I'll organize and hold them in there maybe add some bungee cord and shelves or some Pelican Case foam?View attachment 3745559View attachment 3745560

My wife made the comment "Didn't we already have a table there? And didn't it have a cutting board?" So I guess I need to add a cutting board. We did have the Front Runner table, which was a good table, I just wanted the added storage this one has.

Glad to see someone putting the versabox to use. I don't think I'm going to end up installing mine.

Do you want to get rid of your front runner table?

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Glad to see someone putting the versabox to use. I don't think I'm going to end up installing mine.

Do you want to get rid of your front runner table?

Maybe. I'll let you know. I'm trying to find a use for it on one of my other vehicles, but they all have tailgates, so not really a need.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

More table work...my neighbor's giving me s*** about how many tables I have and how that's somehow related to your level of Broverlanding preparedness.

The aforementioned Versa Box from AluInovations also came with a small door table. This one has a hole in it for a wash tub. No was tub or specs for one, it was also missing hardware to mount it, a rectangular hole for the door handle as well as a latch to hold it closed. Repeated emails to Alu-Innovations about this and other details have all gone unanswered.

This door got a new piece of plastic backing, sound dampening, as well as some fluid film.

I removed my old aluminum door panel and used it as a template to cut the door handle hole. The part that mounts to the door was too big to sit down in the recess, so the door latch didn't reach the holes that secure it. I cut the back sheet down with my radial arm saw, radiused the corners with a sanding disc on my angle grinder, but was still unable to get the door handle to catch the mounting holes. The new back plate it about twice as thick as the old one, I finally just decided to drill out the rivets on the hinge attached to the new back plate and riveted the table to my old panel.

I purchased these door latches on Amazon, complete with 'Complimentary screws Possible period of want or need'...didn't want or need them though as I had to make a spacer plate to space them up enough (~5/16") to catch the sides of the door and secure it in the closed position.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Ordered a collapsible washtub yesterday that looks to be the right diameter to fit in the hole.

It doesn't quite open 90 deg. under it's own weight, but with a tub of water it should sit at 90.

I had to remove the panel about 6 times as the cable harness that goes inside the door jamb to power the license plate light, kept getting hung up.

There's a 'floating bracket' inside there that you can only reach with one hand and the tape that held it to the cable mount broke. I was able to zip tie it the the cable and it worked...then I'd mount the table and it'd fail...went through this about 4 times before I finally figured out the bolt holding the right side strap was fouling on this floating bracket and not allowing it to move properly. Changed out that bolt with a shorter one and no issues closing the door.

Side note. These aluminum panels were on the vehicle when I purchased it, they're secured with sheet-metal screws and some have drywall anchors in the sheet metal. I added some rivnuts to this panel and may do the same with all of them when I re-install. The nice thing about the sheet metal screws is you just have to be close for them to catch, the s***ty thing is they don't always secure the panels well, are prone to stripping out and the panels develop a rattle, which is annoying as hell.

 

[RHINO]

It's a good thing they included complimentary screws or a possible period of want or need.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

$10 piece of 3" thick foam from Joann Fabrics...first iteration. I think the space can be utilized a bit better, but this holds/organizes the essentials for now. Not sure how I took this picture in black and white, didn't even know that was an option on my phone.

 

[prwillard2]

$10 piece of 3" thick foam from Joann Fabrics...first iteration. I think the space can be utilized a bit better, but this holds/organizes the essentials for now. Not sure how I took this picture in black and white, didn't even know that was an option on my phone.View attachment 3750479

Makes it look very "rustic".

Glad to see you using this!

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Okay. More tables!

Got the MaxTrax table installed. I still don't own any MaxTrax though.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I cut the channels down to 58", beveled the cut end to match the 'factory' bevel on the other end. I put 5 counter sunk M6 x 20mm bolts in each with a fender washer and a nyloc nut on the inside.

It was a bit of a pain installing solo, but I managed. Only scratched the paint on the side of the truck in one spot. Holes drilled. I drilled the holes in the channel, bolted each end up and match-drilled into the body. The first couple holes were tricky, trying to hold it onto the truck with tape/propped up with a stick of wood. Would have been much easier with a second set of hands.
I also painted each hole with POR-15, used a Q-tip, worked well.

I also used some of the left-over Sikaflex around each hole that I drilled in the body as well as a dab in between each bolt.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

As I've mentioned elsewhere in this thread or the group-buy thread for the top, I was missing the square M8 channel nuts for the top toggle bolts that secure the table closed. Thanks to @ridefastflyfar for giving me some that fit. He's sourced them for some of his products and they're hard to find, thanks again.

The toggle bolts were too long, couldn't be tightened before the bolt bottomed out in the channel. So out came the hacksaw. One was about 1/4" longer than the other.

Now to get a deal on some MaxTrax...

 

[prwillard2]

Great to see! What's your impression of the table? Does it seem sturdy based on mounting on those channels?

Also, are you putting a 270 awning on that side with the table?

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Great to see! What's your impression of the table? Does it seem sturdy based on mounting on those channels?

Also, are you putting a 270 awning on that side with the table?

The channels are sturdy. I haven't loaded the table up to see how sturdy it is with the straps as supports. I think steel cables would be better, less stretch and maybe hold up longer? I'm not sure how long the straps will last, flapping in the wind and exposed to U.V.

I don't have an awning or plan to get one yet. I've got a start of an awning that would just cover one side (90 not 270) but it was going to mount to my roof rack, which I can't run with this top. I'd like to see the brackets you guys with awnings are going to use. Seems like a lot of force/torque needed to carry on the aluminum roof sides.

 

[prwillard2]

The channels are sturdy. I haven't loaded the table up to see how sturdy it is with the straps as supports. I think steel cables would be better, less stretch and maybe hold up longer? I'm not sure how long the straps will last, flapping in the wind and exposed to U.V.

I don't have an awning or plan to get one yet. I've got a start of an awning that would just cover one side (90 not 270) but it was going to mount to my roof rack, which I can't run with this top. I'd like to see the brackets you guys with awnings are going to use. Seems like a lot of force/torque needed to carry on the aluminum roof sides.

Coated steel cables or chain probably best I agree.

I've got brackets and am mounting an OVS 270 awning here shortly, will post pics.

 

[coldtaco]

You can run 1/4” aluminum plate inside that the mount bolts would go through.

 

[prwillard2]

You can run 1/4” aluminum plate inside that the mount bolts would go through.

View attachment 3752722

View attachment 3752723

View attachment 3752724

This for an awning or the table?

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I think those are reinforcement's for the awning brackets. Thanks for sharing @coldtaco.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I acquired a 'free' sub tank a few years ago, took me a while to get motivated to install it. This summer I ended up with some time on my hands, so I started getting the parts necessary to put the filler box in place.

I initially scoured the local wreckers and cut a filler box out of an old Mazda truck. It just didn't look right. I couldn't find the parts available on Parsouq or Amayama etc. so I contacted Japan 4x4. I've never used them for anything before, so wasn't sure how it would work out...took several weeks of correspondence and was 3 months before parts got shipped. Not sure if that's typical or not, just beware if you go that route that it's not quick.

I made a template with the box, taped it up, traced it out then started cutting.

Put the box in from the back and wedged it in place as good as I could then used a hammer/dolly to bend the body metal over.

It's not pretty, but it'll do. I may try some bondo on it next summer to get a better looking edge/gap between the body and the door.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I also got the cross members that support the tank. They needed cleaned up a bit as there had been some modifications done prior to me acquiring them. One bolt was rusted in place and I had to cut it out then weld in a new weld nut.

Rear cross member from the donor frame.

Took me a minute to figure out that those 'L' brackets were part of the modifications that were done to the tank support by the South American P.O.

I cut them off. Also had to cut out the factory spare tire carrier from my truck.