Builds Owyhee J.A. BJ75 Troopy Journal (1 Viewer)

[Owyhee Jackass]

Ordered a new detent ball and spring for the t-case low-range shift fork. I've been strapping the shift fork forward for a while, thinking I needed to rebuild the case to solve the issue of it popping out of gear. Then I saw a post somewhere about replacing the spring with a stouter version or shimming it with washers to increase the pre-load. I ordered a new spring and ball from Toyota, and it was a fairly easy job. Not sure the issue has been fixed as I need to go out and drive a steep hill in low-range to test it. Will do that this weekend. I did not use a stouter spring or add any washers, figured I'd just replace the old one with a new one first and go from there.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Got my injection pump back and installed. Shop said that they replaced the supply pump, set it up per the DENSO spec.
View attachment 3252258

I ended up pulling my intake off to make it easier to get it installed. I should have installed a block heater at the same time as I had drained the coolant and the freeze-plugs were accessible. Not sure which one to put them in, think the one closest to the fire wall is where I've read to put one.


View attachment 3252264

Initial start and drive, it seems to be less smoky. It was pulling pretty well up to about 95 kph, then felt like it hit over-fueling...it was a bit like pulling teeth talking to the dude that did the set-up and test of it. I'll probably give him a call Monday and see where/if he put the boost comp diaphragm. I should have monkey'd with it before I installed it as I'll most likely be pulling the intake off again to adjust it. I've never pulled one apart, so I'm a bit leery of messing something up.
View attachment 3252265

New vacuum hoses 90999-90024
New Intake gasket 17171-56010
New grid heater gasket (2) 19829-17010
New pump o-ring 90301-49003

I'm really enjoying this thread, thanks for posting

I'm soon to start a 14B-T conversion of my 1989 BJ60 with a 3Bii, and I wanted to ask a couple of questions about the intake heater.

The gaskets you mention above (19829-17010) are for a 1HD-FT* (and 1995+ 14B, 15B-F*) - are they an exact fit on the 14B-T? I am sticking with 12V and only the 1HD-FT had 12V intake heaters. The 14B-T i am looking at buying is also 12V but as they were sold in warm weather markets they had no intake heater.

Secondly, did you just use the original glow plug wiring on the BJ75 to run it? Have you had any issues with blowing fusible links or relays?

Thanks a lot!

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

As I recall, the gaskets fit with no issues.

The glow plug wiring had already been converted to a 'Wilson Switch' (search on here if you're not familiar with that) Basically all the factory controls are bypassed and you have a momentary switch on the dash that sends 12v/24v directly to the grid heater. The only mod I had to do with that was to put a solenoid in to send the power to the grid heater as the P.O. had all the current flowing through the switch on the dash and it didn't last, burnt up the contacts.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Ĺ

As I recall, the gaskets fit with no issues.

The glow plug wiring had already been converted to a 'Wilson Switch' (search on here if you're not familiar with that) Basically all the factory controls are bypassed and you have a momentary switch on the dash that sends 12v/24v directly to the grid heater. The only mod I had to do with that was to put a solenoid in to send the power to the grid heater as the P.O. had all the current flowing through the switch on the dash and it didn't last, burnt up the contacts.

Thanks, that's good news for me.

As far as I'm aware, people replace the factory wiring with a 'Wilson Switch' when the glow plug controllers fail, or if (probably the case with your PO who seems not to have been exactly gifted in electronics!) they can't understand it.

As you may know, there were two glow systems used on the 3B (and other IDI diesels of the time). The Superglow system was activated when the key was turned to the IGN position; it came on for a duration inversely proportional to coolant temperature (hence superglow models had two temperature sensors in the lower thermostat housing). Once the engine started, the glow current from the relay was switched through a resistor housed in the intake manifold and ran the glowplugs at a reduced current for a period of time. Naturally, the glow plug controllers were (in a vehicle where the AC amp or digital clock was the most complex electronic component), quite sophisticated.

In warm weather markets (or those without emissions regulation) the system was much simpler. The so-called Fixed Delay system used an ignition barrel with an additional G (glow) position between IGN and START, which initiated a fixed glow period unrelated to temperature. Once the engine started, no more glow.

My BJ60 is a tropical model (no heater originally!) with Fixed Delay glow so effectively has a factory 'Wilson Switch'.

Anyhow, my concern was more if the original fusible link (mine is 80A (black) for the glow circuit) stood up to the current draw of the intake heater.

I live in the tropics so plan to unplug the glow controller and avoid unnecessary use of the heater, but one day I'll drive the thing to Europe and would like the glow heater, I imagine, at some points of the trip.

Again, thanks for your reply,

EO

 

[myusername]

Ĺ

Thanks, that's good news for me.

As far as I'm aware, people replace the factory wiring with a 'Wilson Switch' when the glow plug controllers fail, or if (probably the case with your PO who seems not to have been exactly gifted in electronics!) they can't understand it.

Another reason is to add after-glow on old manual turn back glow systems, but tbh you're on the money re: PO electrical inability

Aside from PO butchery, I've found many 40 series electrical problems are simply caused by 40yrs of corrosion and can be solved with basic cleaning or replacing a connector/wire or two. A $50 hobbyist quality digital multimeter is much cheaper than parts swapping!

re: the later direct injection diesel engines, many report that there's no need for the glow screen unless you're sub 0ºC. There's a screenshot of an FSM floating around that shows the glow screen on at least one variant doesn't even turn on until <3ºC. The 15BFTE FSM suggests the intake heater comes on below 20ºC depending on conditions, and can stay on for as long as 70secs, but it doesn't specify if that's at constant full voltage or not

There are guys in Europe who say the 15BF variants don't even need a glow screen in winter as the direct injection engine's start in sub zero temps without glow. They just let it warm up for a minute like you would with an IDI and they're good to go

I haven't plumbed my intake / IC piping yet, so I'm not sure if the glow screen on my 15BFT will be deleted or not. I believe several of the glow screens are interchangeable. I have subjectively bench tested the 24V one and it does get hot with 12V, I imagine it just runs at half current and takes twice as long. If it can withstand being on for 70secs, I assume there would be no problem glowing for extended periods at 12V. Judging by anecdotal evidence, it's probably unlikely that there will be a noticeable difference in practice, but it would be nice to have as an emergency backup

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Another reason is to add after-glow on old manual turn back glow systems, but tbh you're on the money re: PO electrical inability

Aside from PO butchery, I've found many 40 series electrical problems are simply caused by 40yrs of corrosion and can be solved with basic cleaning or replacing a connector/wire or two. A $50 hobbyist quality digital multimeter is much cheaper than parts swapping!

re: the later direct injection diesel engines, many report that there's no need for the glow screen unless you're sub 0ºC. There's a screenshot of an FSM floating around that shows the glow screen on at least one variant doesn't even turn on until <3ºC. The 15BFTE FSM suggests the intake heater comes on below 20ºC depending on conditions, and can stay on for as long as 70secs, but it doesn't specify if that's at constant full voltage or not

There are guys in Europe who say the 15BF variants don't even need a glow screen in winter as the direct injection engine's start in sub zero temps without glow. They just let it warm up for a minute like you would with an IDI and they're good to go

I haven't plumbed my intake / IC piping yet, so I'm not sure if the glow screen on my 15BFT will be deleted or not. I believe several of the glow screens are interchangeable. I have subjectively bench tested the 24V one and it does get hot with 12V, I imagine it just runs at half current and takes twice as long. If it can withstand being on for 70secs, I assume there would be no problem glowing for extended periods at 12V. Judging by anecdotal evidence, it's probably unlikely that there will be a noticeable difference in practice, but it would be nice to have as an emergency backup

Yes, I've also heard that the DI engines start fine above freezing but I'm thinking more of -20º C in Central Asia kind of temperatures. Plus the rough running of a misfiring diesel will not be kind to cold, hard engine mounts, which are a weak point if using the Landcruiser mounts in one of these bigger DI engines.

Given the information by the OP, all the 14B*, 15B*, 1HD-FT* intake heaters are the same size. The 12H-T, 13B* and pre about 1989 11B are different (and NLA). I'm not sure about running a 24V unit at 12V, I imagine it would render it much less effective, and given that it is barely required, seems pointless. To be honest, a new 12V intake heater, 19810-17030 in not really that expensive and if you're in Australia I would have thought it's cheap to pull one of a scrapped 80/100/105 crusier.

In Europe, or maybe just the UK, there was a known issue with the intake heaters on the 100 series burning out the factory relay in the wing (sometimes causing a fire) and many owners run without them.

I stripped my BJ almost immediately after buying it and one thing I now wonder with the 'Fixed Delay' glow system is; if after starting I turn the key back to 'G' (glow), will current be supplied?

EO

 

[myusername]

Yes, I've also heard that the DI engines start fine above freezing but I'm thinking more of -20º C in Central Asia kind of temperatures. Plus the rough running of a misfiring diesel will not be kind to cold, hard engine mounts, which are a weak point if using the Landcruiser mounts in one of these bigger DI engines.

Given the information by the OP, all the 14B*, 15B*, 1HD-FT* intake heaters are the same size. The 12H-T, 13B* and pre about 1989 11B are different (and NLA). I'm not sure about running a 24V unit at 12V, I imagine it would render it much less effective, and given that it is barely required, seems pointless. To be honest, a new 12V intake heater, 19810-17030 in not really that expensive and if you're in Australia I would have thought it's cheap to pull one of a scrapped 80/100/105 crusier.

In Europe, or maybe just the UK, there was a known issue with the intake heaters on the 100 series burning out the factory relay in the wing (sometimes causing a fire) and many owners run without them.

I stripped my BJ almost immediately after buying it and one thing I now wonder with the 'Fixed Delay' glow system is; if after starting I turn the key back to 'G' (glow), will current be supplied?

EO

You could ask Havaard or any of the other guys who have had them a while in cold climates, if you're not already get onto the 15B engine swap group on facebook:

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I would assume the 24V unit would have higher resistance and run at ~1/2 current. Since it does get hot it would do *something*, I don't think I had another battery on hand at the time to subjectively time 12v vs 24v, and it's buried in a tub of loom components at the moment

You're correct that 12V units aren't that hard to find in Australia, but even in the high country temps aren't too far below 0ºC so I'm not overly concerned compared to conditions are running them in without glow, so I'll likely just try the 24V one first (if it doesn't get deleted to fit the IC piping around the battery). Intake turbulence etc should be negligible, guys have dyno tested the big 1HDFT with and without the glow screen without a significant change (often the same people who induce turbo lag by running comically oversized IC piping), but people still delete them. If not running an intercooler I would leave it in as a "turbo related shrapnel catcher"

If your key has a "glow" position then it's not overly difficult to wire a relay setup and bypass any risk related to capacity of the OEM circuit. I'm only familiar with the manual "turn back glow" which has no timer, just a resistive coil in the dash wired in series with the glow plugs which heats up and glows red after ~15secs

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Figured I'd take my injection pump/turbo tweaking conversation over to my own thread.

So as I said in the 'What did you do...' thread. I took the troopy to SNLC's shop and Ian took it for a spin and thought I needed more fuel.

My issue was the new Gturbo was under-performing, but, as I've only owned this one diesel, I wanted a second opinion.

As Ian's a busy guy, I had already taken it to another diesel-dork shop a couple weeks ago that was willing to look at it and asked them to evaluate it and check the compression...they had it for a week and a half and gave it back to me with a new fuel filter, new air filter (provided by me) and a shrug/head-scratch, 'dunno what's wrong, seems slow' and charged me for about 3.5 hours of labor. They did do the compression test though and said it was 350 on all four cylinders. Spec for a 14B is 427, rebuild 284 or something like that.

This afternoon I took Ian's advice and turned up the fuel screw, I figured what the hell, and gave it two full turns. Stabbed the throttle a few times, blew smoke but immediately cleared up. Took it up the road, stomping on it, getting on the interstate I was riding a guys ass and passed him accelerating and boost hit 20.5 psi! Forgot I'd closed off the actuator reference line completely. There was too much traffic for me to get the EGT and rpm numbers, I exited, ran to the store, bought a six pack of Negro Modelos for Ian and Chris and dropped them off. Thanked them again and then headed home for a bike ride.

After my ride I started trying to dial it in a bit better. It's idling high, the torsional spring that closes the throttle doesn't seem to have enough force to get the lever closed down to the idle adjustment screw all the way. I turned the fuel down a half a turn (out), added another spring to the throttle lever, opened the boost controller a turn and took it for another spin. Only hit 16.5 psi this time, EGTs were in the 600's, but I was in traffic and in a 35 mph zone going to pick up dinner.

Tweaked it in the parking lot of the Mexican Restaurant (yeah, I'm that guy) , turned up (in) the fuel a quarter turn, closed the boost control valve a half turn, idle went back up to 830, drove home, hit 19.5 psi, tried romping on it as best I could in traffic and hit 850 on the EGT. Still think there's room there, just need to figure out how to get the idle back down, the spring I added makes the pedal really hard to push. Gonna look for a new torsional spring and order an aneroid pin that I can grind on...I'd like to check the pin profile as the guy that rebuilt the pump gave me zero info on that and it was like pulling teeth to get any info out of him.

Hopefully I'll get some more time this weekend to get it to a hill and mess with it some more, take some data (need a co-pilot), at least I'm finally getting the specified boost , I think I've been too concerned with the smoke as I've been admonished a few times by a-holes about my smokey truck.

 

[coldtaco]

My 12HT maxes out at around 900F egt climbing steep hills at 20-21psi. I have 30% over injectors and max fuel screw all the way out. Never was happy with the acceleration, kept adjusting the on boost screw the wrong way, more fuel. So I ended up going the other way, leaner, and accelerating started getting better and better. I think it’s just about at the perfect place now. I think the only way to increase the egt’s is with a modded fuel pump. As far as I know the pump is still original. Don’t know if your engine has the same fuel screws as a 12HT

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I'm still messing with it. Haven't taken the time to really fiddle with it. Maybe this weekend. I'm driving around with a 12mm deep socket a headlamp and a screwdriver.

Just spoke to Dave at Back 40 Imports in Mt. He's got an aftermarket aneroid pin for an HDT, that should work for the 14B-T boost compensator, I'm not sure I need it, just want to have one in hand as I'd like to pull mine out and see where it's set to as far as fueling. I guess I can pull mine out and re-install it without modifying it, I just have to back off on another screw/pin to get it back in. I don't want to end up pulling my injection pump back out, but it may come to that as it's pretty tight in there. I can't get the cap off the boost compensator without either pulling the pump or pulling the intake off.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Took a drive up North of here last weekend. It was about 100 miles one-way with a big hill/small pass to go over. We were almost able to keep up going over the hill, was able to stay in 4th at least.

Took a scenic detour to the top of a ski-resort/fire look-out on the way home. Fire lookout in the background.

Our white dog decided to make himself a brown dog

The lookout isn't manned right now. When it is though, it's got one of the better-built out-houses that I've ever seen. Hand-hewn logs, fit together really well.

 

[Tennessee Jed]

Let me tell you, as someone who has built a hewn log cabin with half dovetail notches, that tiny little shack represents one hell of a lot of highly skilled and careful workmanship. They weren't getting paid by the hour.

 

[MOTOV8R]

Yeah that was someone who gave a sh*t about their work.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Update time.

Replaced my blow-out sleeves on my front seat belt, female side. I've been told you can buy new OEM, but have never found them available. They've been on my Partsouq wish list for over a year and have never come up available. So Wesco Performance replacements are better than what I had.

and the new sleeve (not of wizard)

Had to grind off the old swaged hardware, open up the hole to 7/16 and put in some new 7/16-20 hardware.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Next 'upgrade' got some new speaker pods. I just installed new map pockets and these came with new map pockets, so I've got an extra set if any one needs them.

Put in new window runs and a new driver's side window regulator as my window would always drop a bit and whistle as I went down the highway.

Also did some POR-15 on the bottom seam of the door, along with some Kilmat and new OEM vapor barrier. Ordered some butyl tape of Amazon, it was a bit too wide, cut it in half and it worked well.

Oh and a new plastic escutcheon plate for behind the window winder.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Got a decal for my speedo. Was not able to remove the speedo needle, was afraid I break it, it's stuck on pretty good. I just cut the decal and slipped it around it.

Before

After

Just ran to the store and noticed I've got a bulb out in the cluster now...maybe I bumped it and it needs re=set. can't see the right side of the cluster. Need to find some 24v. cluster lights.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I must not have gotten my speedo cable plugged all the way in or something. Driving to work this a.m. and my speedo was erratic, climbed up to above 90, then stayed at 60+ when I was doing about 30, was reading 15-20 when stopped...

 

[RHINO]

I must not have gotten my speedo cable plugged all the way in or something. Driving to work this a.m. and my speedo was erratic, climbed up to above 90, then stayed at 60+ when I was doing about 30, was reading 15-20 when stopped...

sounds like it

 

[MOTOV8R]

I must not have gotten my speedo cable plugged all the way in or something. Driving to work this a.m. and my speedo was erratic, climbed up to above 90, then stayed at 60+ when I was doing about 30, was reading 15-20 when stopped...

That or it’s rejecting SAE units.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Changed out my speedometer gear with one with one more tooth, speedometer is closer to accurate, but still reads high. If I add another tooth to the gear, I have to change the one inside the t-case and it's NLA.

Also installed a new speedometer cable, put new bulbs in the cluster and installed a new rear door handle as the return springs on mine were broken so the handle would stay open/not latch, unless I pushed it shut. Broken springs shown blow. Don't think you could press the pin out and put new springs on without breaking the handle. But I guess I could try on the old handle, now that I have a 'spare'.

Curious if the door handle for the rear that I purchased will work on the driver's front. Partsouq has a different number listed for the driver's front and it's twice as much, but the description highlighted below sounds like it may.