out with the old, in with the, well, old... (1 Viewer)

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Jippy and I where discussing years ago about using the tach signal in place of the vss signal to the factory cruise control module. Matching voltages would be easy, both are square waves and it would automatically compensate for load and still function as cruise control.

This was all campfire theory talk but the idea still hangs in my head.
 
Sounds good in theory ;) . I wonder if the ecu would be super confused by the frequency difference. I would also assume the ecu probably doesn't engage after a certain speed too.

The other thing about this particular mod is the early trucks used the vacuum actuator. You could, in theory, put this setup on anything.
 
Quick google maths.

Toyota VSS is 4000 PPM per the first two google results.

30MPH * 4,000PPMi = 120,000PPH/60 = 2,000 PPM
2,000PPM/2 = 1,000PPM -> 1,000RPM in pulses(4 cylinder)

80MPH * 4,000PPMi = 320,000PPH/60 = 5,333 PPM
5,333/2 = 2,666PPM -> 2,666RPM in pulses(4 cylinder)

I'm not sure what the high and low cutoff of the cruise control is, but might give you a 1,000 to 2,666 rpm range? Luckily converting frequencies isn't too hard these days.

And lucky Mr. 3.4...
2,000PPMi/3 = 666RPM
5,333PPMi/3 = 1,777RPM

Sounds reasonable-ish if the googles are correct...

What say ye?
 
Alrighty then. Took an actual test drive with this resistance setting. I really like how its working. Doesn't feel at all sketchy like before. I may fiddle a bit more, thinking I'll try an 11-12ohm value. I could use a touch moar power i think.

Is acts as i expected. I need to assist if im trying to use at highway speed. Its not exact because its throttle control not speed control. Again, not for amateurs.
 
In place of the resistors, what about using a voltage regulator in your second draft? Would be much more adjustable, and they are cheap these days. Next time I see you I will hand you one if you want to give one a try.

Also does the CC module have any sort of feedback? The 80 series one I was messing with had a potentiometer on the output shaft for feedback. Would be nice, then you could set it up as a 'servo' and just set a position(with a dial or 'bump' switched), watch it go there and no where else.
 
Ya. Just trying to K.I.S.S. but yes this motor has a pot on it. Probably the exact one you messed with.
My original idea(in my head) was a rheostat type setup with display (or not) ;)

I think pulse width is the answer.
 
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Ok my "big" pack of resistors showed up today.
I used two 22ohm in parallel. Math says 11, my DMM begged to differ. Must have been a fluke :flipoff2:

Anyway, i believe desired/acceptable results have been achieved.
 
For people and google-fu

1984 - 1989 Toyota 4runner license plate light bulbs are a 67. (Everywhere shows a 194)

1984
1985
1986
1987
1988
1989
Toyota
4runner
1st gen generation.
 
You know the feeling you get when theres a ****** assed cyclist too far out in the lane, you go to honk and get nothing. FAWK!!!!!!!
22 screws later....... literally.
Guess my camera failed on the pic of the contact thingys side by side. So heres the part number for the horn contact pin
84312-20011 retail is like $7.50
IMG_20180709_153934548.jpg
 
Is it really a secret if everyone has a key and knows about it?:p
 
Found an issue when rotating tires the other day. Inner circlip failed and let axle slip out of the birf. The ring acted like it was hanging up when id had it out recently. At that time i cleaned it up and stretched it out. When i pulled the ring out this time there was some rubish in the ring groove too. Not sure if it was part of the axle seal or what. I bought these from Davez off-road he said it's warranty, so off they go
Booo.....

IMG_20180918_192135175.jpg
IMG_20180918_192149575.jpg
 
Nothing floating around. Luckily its a simple issue. Ill probably have to eat another MC inner seal. With the FROR hub set, i can literally have the axle out in ten minutes.
 

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