out with the old, in with the, well, old... (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter gnob
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- 1st gen rear winch sas warn
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Nice meats!
Cool..
If you do sell it then what?
If you do sell it then what?
- Thread starter
- #467
Not well, not well. Lol
- Thread starter
- #468
So the new Coops crawled into a spot that requied the locker the day prior and still slipped.
These tires are an E rate, compared to the D rated KMs and C rated MT/Rs.
Have them at 25 psi currently, but they are a bit full since my pattern isnt totally flat.
These tires are an E rate, compared to the D rated KMs and C rated MT/Rs.
Have them at 25 psi currently, but they are a bit full since my pattern isnt totally flat.
I still think you should trade me straight across for my 2nd Gen... Just sayin.
- Thread starter
- #470
Although tempting, i know that the person who wired my truck wasnt a dopehead and my rig isnt going to burst into flames. Lol
LOL! The wiring is good. Just nothing was marked.
- Thread starter
- #472
So i ran these tires down to 15 and 12psi to flatten the pattern. Id say i have about 100 or so miles, primarily highway.
When i had the guys spin them, we did road force. All tires were under .015". Three tires wanted 3.5oz or less. One wanted 5oz. We only added weight to the 5oz one.
Freeways are 100% better. Tires are significantly quieter.
I tried the upper dirt part of my street recently with the KMs. Pretty much done as soon as rear tires hit dirt. Coopers climbed to the turn with open diff. Locker and little bump finished.
I can say at this point, these are the best oversized tyre i have owned thus far. Simply the smoothness at speed. Everything else has sucked, especially over 45. Pretty lame actually. I figured the mt/r would be a huge improvement over the sx, nope. Figured the same with the bfgs over the mt/r. I can say that i am seriously disappointed in the overall performance of both the radial tyres, considering their manufacturer and the price point on said tyres.
The Coopers were 100$ less each, YES EACH, than what i had to pay for the single KM2 i had to eat initially.
Cooper FTW.
When i had the guys spin them, we did road force. All tires were under .015". Three tires wanted 3.5oz or less. One wanted 5oz. We only added weight to the 5oz one.
Freeways are 100% better. Tires are significantly quieter.
I tried the upper dirt part of my street recently with the KMs. Pretty much done as soon as rear tires hit dirt. Coopers climbed to the turn with open diff. Locker and little bump finished.
I can say at this point, these are the best oversized tyre i have owned thus far. Simply the smoothness at speed. Everything else has sucked, especially over 45. Pretty lame actually. I figured the mt/r would be a huge improvement over the sx, nope. Figured the same with the bfgs over the mt/r. I can say that i am seriously disappointed in the overall performance of both the radial tyres, considering their manufacturer and the price point on said tyres.
The Coopers were 100$ less each, YES EACH, than what i had to pay for the single KM2 i had to eat initially.
Cooper FTW.
Interesting. The cooper's were the runner up to the mt/r when I bought them. Makes we wonder.
I'm running STT Pros on my Tundra (although a lot smaller) and I have no complaints thus far. They worked really well out hunting.
- Thread starter
- #475
#@$& DISCLAIMER!!! #$&@
I AM A PROFESSIONAL. IF DONE WRONG THIS COULD RESULT IN A PRIUS TYPE FIREY DEATH. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THAT ANYONE NOT QUALIFIED IN 7 BANANA LEVEL REPAIRS ATTEMPT THIS!!!
A little mod i finally did was an electric hand throttle/cruise system. System consists of a Toyota electric cruise actuator, a SPDT switch, the stock cruise switch modified, a very basic harness with factory Toyota plug.
Everything is fused behind the cruise button. I had to add roughly 11. 5 ohm resistor to get the throttle bump usable and SAFE.
The benefits of this over stock cruise is not having to mess with tricking the cruise ECU. No speed limiter, no brake or clutch kill. Simple on/off and toggle.
Pics and diagram my schtuff is based on. Sorry for pic of screen.
I AM A PROFESSIONAL. IF DONE WRONG THIS COULD RESULT IN A PRIUS TYPE FIREY DEATH. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THAT ANYONE NOT QUALIFIED IN 7 BANANA LEVEL REPAIRS ATTEMPT THIS!!!
A little mod i finally did was an electric hand throttle/cruise system. System consists of a Toyota electric cruise actuator, a SPDT switch, the stock cruise switch modified, a very basic harness with factory Toyota plug.
Everything is fused behind the cruise button. I had to add roughly 11. 5 ohm resistor to get the throttle bump usable and SAFE.
The benefits of this over stock cruise is not having to mess with tricking the cruise ECU. No speed limiter, no brake or clutch kill. Simple on/off and toggle.
Pics and diagram my schtuff is based on. Sorry for pic of screen.
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- Thread starter
- #476
So without drawing a diagram. The two wires on the left are the holding coil. Blue is power.
The next two are the motor. the left wire (mo) is throttle up.
The right three are a potentiometer for the cruise ecu and are not used in this scenario.
Wiring at the switch is switched power, ground and the two motor wires. The cruise switch was modded so the little light comes on, it used to be operated by the cruise ecu.
The most important part of this mod is using a resistor to limit the motor speed/power. I found anything under 10 was too fast. Anything over 13 didn't work.
As this works, from idle i can only run rpm to 2k with 3-500 increments. After that i can assist the pedal and reset. As the throttle opens, the spring tension increases and stops the motor. This is kind of a bummer because it probably won't accelerate like regular CC at highway speed but thats not really the primary point/intended use.
The next two are the motor. the left wire (mo) is throttle up.
The right three are a potentiometer for the cruise ecu and are not used in this scenario.
Wiring at the switch is switched power, ground and the two motor wires. The cruise switch was modded so the little light comes on, it used to be operated by the cruise ecu.
The most important part of this mod is using a resistor to limit the motor speed/power. I found anything under 10 was too fast. Anything over 13 didn't work.
As this works, from idle i can only run rpm to 2k with 3-500 increments. After that i can assist the pedal and reset. As the throttle opens, the spring tension increases and stops the motor. This is kind of a bummer because it probably won't accelerate like regular CC at highway speed but thats not really the primary point/intended use.
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- Thread starter
- #477
Im not an electrcael engineer but i assume the actual cruise ecu uses pulse width modulation at full power to move the motor. I found that using full power to the motor resulted in generally 6-800+ jumps in rpm. Which is not usable. I used it in low range and also on the highway just to see what happens. Even at speed under load the bump was way too much.
- Thread starter
- #479
This "exhaust tape" was a complete fail. The tape completely burnt out and the exhaust was making a whistle while leaking.
I thought i had a little hole in the pipe slip but not. I rewrapped in three layers of coated fiberglass wrap and reclamped it. Should be GTG meow.
Also ended up moving the tail pipe clamp as it was contacting the shackle bolt a little but.
I thought i had a little hole in the pipe slip but not. I rewrapped in three layers of coated fiberglass wrap and reclamped it. Should be GTG meow.
Also ended up moving the tail pipe clamp as it was contacting the shackle bolt a little but.
People are stupid, will die and blame you. Plus they are whiney and it doesn't add cup holders. That's just my opinion and I'm probably wrong...