- Thread starter
- #681
At this point in ound some surfave rust in places. I would like to remove the existing sound deadener. It is very difficult to peel. And to top it all off, they applied it over the Toyota tar, as far as I see. Any suggestions ?
Builds Out with the old and in with the new!(turboed 2h!)now no longer turbo, but rebuilt! (12 Viewers)
- Thread starter mongoose2231
- Start date
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pistonpete
SILVER Star
Messy and s***ty job any way you look at it, try putting a bit of heat to it without setting it on fire,lol, and a good putty knife should do ok.
I heat gravelgaurd with a propane torch and comes off pretty good. as for the cruisercrap, he did not recommend to me to put on roof.
I went with dynamat for acoustics and ez cool..
I heat gravelgaurd with a propane torch and comes off pretty good. as for the cruisercrap, he did not recommend to me to put on roof.
I went with dynamat for acoustics and ez cool..
pistonpete
SILVER Star
And for the seats, if you can find a buddy with a body shop or detailer they should have a gizmo like this for the seats, works amazing !!
www.amazon.com/dp/B0024J6JMI/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_O1MJEbK9WEWD0
www.amazon.com/dp/B0024J6JMI/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_O1MJEbK9WEWD0
- Thread starter
- #684
Perfect advice! Will atempt the torch for removal of existing sound deadener. And will put dynamat on the roof. At this point, I want to go ahead and chop up metal to fix rusty areas. Will post as I make progress.
- Thread starter
- #686
I am sure the dry ice would work, but where to get some. With this Covid 19, I haven't left the house in a while.
When I did my pickup, I waited till the dead of winter, went out one cold morning armed with a hammer and the tar went flying!
Now, I am just going to try and fix the visible rust, around the wheel wells and such, and I will address the floor at a later date. Maybe this pandemic eases out., then I can go and get some dry ice. I am not sure to what extent am I going to do this. There are small amounts of surface rust in places which can easily be cleaned and converted then painted over, but If I think about it, at this point rust might be lurking in every seam of this here vehicle. I think I will just cut and patch to suit and leave it at that. I really don't want to turn this into a major resto project. It's just not worth it!
Now a rust free donor would be a great idea!
When I did my pickup, I waited till the dead of winter, went out one cold morning armed with a hammer and the tar went flying!
Now, I am just going to try and fix the visible rust, around the wheel wells and such, and I will address the floor at a later date. Maybe this pandemic eases out., then I can go and get some dry ice. I am not sure to what extent am I going to do this. There are small amounts of surface rust in places which can easily be cleaned and converted then painted over, but If I think about it, at this point rust might be lurking in every seam of this here vehicle. I think I will just cut and patch to suit and leave it at that. I really don't want to turn this into a major resto project. It's just not worth it!
Now a rust free donor would be a great idea!
- Thread starter
- #687
Been looking at the forum for some inspiration. Have no real idea where to start...
The lower tail gate is pretty good, no rust that I can see but the upper hatch has seen better days.
The lower tail gate is pretty good, no rust that I can see but the upper hatch has seen better days.
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- Thread starter
- #688
Some closeups of the upper hatch...
And the drivers side rear is pretty bad. My donor has good sheet metal in all those areas but i have never done sheet metal. I am thinking cutting out my truck and trying to match and weld with factory metal already shapped out, out of the donor truck!
And the drivers side rear is pretty bad. My donor has good sheet metal in all those areas but i have never done sheet metal. I am thinking cutting out my truck and trying to match and weld with factory metal already shapped out, out of the donor truck!
- Thread starter
- #689
Other than the rear end, the truck isn't so bad really!
- Thread starter
- #690
Also, on the plus side, I just got a brand new radiator! I added some coolant last week as I noticed it was a little low. The truck never overheated. It took a couple quarts of coolant! I went for a drive and coolant spewed into the overflow bottle. I then realized that the radiator had a pin hole at the top. Surprisingly, it is still doing a great job of cooling the engine, even with 20% less coolant in the system! Regardless, I am not going to worry about it, as the new radiator should be good for the next 30 years. I will install it at a later date, after I make an attempt to tackle the rust.
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- Thread starter
- #691
And now this $hit show began!
- Thread starter
- #692
The factory tar comes off with a slight dab of the rubber mallet and a big flat screw driver. The big problem here is that white crap on top!
pistonpete
SILVER Star
Are you taking it all out ? The whole floor ?
- Thread starter
- #694
At least the rear section. I am worried about rust beneath. There is also surface rust at the front. I am thinking to peel the whole damn floor and start with a clean canvas. I need some dry ice!
pistonpete
SILVER Star
And some beer !! 
- Thread starter
- #696
That, I have, lol.
- Thread starter
- #697
Worked on the truck bout an hour and a half or so. I have made some progress. It is slow but steady.
- Thread starter
- #698
And so it happens that over the last two days I have gotten this far!
pistonpete
SILVER Star
Progress ! 
- Thread starter
- #700
This is the wrong way to do this, the hardest way to say the least. I am happy to say that I think it's a good idea, since I found rust in a bunch of places under the sound deadener.
