Builds Out with the old and in with the new!(turboed 2h!)now no longer turbo, but rebuilt! (9 Viewers)

[mongoose2231]

I will let you guess which ones are the Autozone product. Regardless, I just finished rebuilding the calipers and installed, bled brakes. Truck drives very well, stops great and I have no more brake drag. Tomorrow, I will finally drive it after more than a year and a half...
Sigh...
Will report later on how it feels to get behind the wheel of the beast again.

 

[mongoose2231]

And a pic of a finished caliper half as it was being built.

 

[mongoose2231]

What a s*** show! Brakes are still dragging. Any help is appreciated... I am going to take the brakes apart again to see wth is going on. Visually I see nothing wrong. I rebuilt the calipers with Toyota pistons and seals. The pads slide OK, the pins are greased and new. What the hell is the darn issue here? I have done a bunch of reading online and see lots of ppl having issues with toyo calipers, but those issues are due to lack of maintenance and corrosion. I had this happen to my pickup as well but rebuilding the calipers solved the problem. In this case corrosion is not an issue as everything is new. I am going to set this thing ablaze pretty soon....

 

[mongoose2231]

Post some research, I realized that the one step i missed in the rebuild is using the special Toyota rubber grease on the pistons and seals. Took them brakes apart again and rebuilt the calipers again. Nothing like doing a job 3 times! Anyhow, problem fixed. I guess the grease is very important. Everyone should keep that in mind when they do their rebuilds. I still have a slight drag on the rear right side. Drove the truck and gave the brakes hell every which way I could. I then pulled it in the garage with what seemed to be a bit of drag. I felt heat everywhere at every wheel but I figured it was the severe braking exercises. I then jacked every wheel quick and found that everything was good with the exception of rear right. I can adjust those shoes and i think i will be good to go.

 

[mongoose2231]

Oh, and a downside of glowing your rotors bright orange is the obvious necessity to rebuild the front axles, since I assume all the greased got cooked out of the bearings, DOH!

 

[mongoose2231]

News again, the bad kind! My fronts are still severely sticking to the point of orange glow rotors. Wtf? I have soft lines on order to replace those, and if that isn't the case, then yet another rebuild with a set of cores I have from my spare truck. If that too doesn't work, then I have no idea how to solve this problem.
Anyone have a clue? I have been scouring the net every which way to get an answer to no avail, aside from the obvious. Meaning issues I have addressed already.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Front calipers are sticking, causing the rotors to glow? Jesus christ man. The calipers are seized. Buy new ones.

 

[mongoose2231]

Front calipers are sticking, causing the rotors to glow? Jesus christ man. The calipers are seized. Buy new ones.

I am sorry, what?! You say buy new calipers? Lol. Read through the thread a bit. I bought new calipers, they didn't work, rebuilt the new calipers again with Toyota parts, didn't work again but since I had forgotten the special grease, i took them apart again, and still no dice. I am thinking its a different issue.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Lines won't cause calipers to stick. Where did you buy the "new" calipers from?

 

[mongoose2231]

I bought them at autozone, but took them apart and put in new toyo components in the castings which I assume are toyota cores that are returned by customers when buying new. I read that the soft line can deteriorate on the inside causing a tmp blockage. So thats why i am replacing those. Other than that, i have yet another set of cores i took off my spare truck, i will rebuild those with the toyo parts that i have. Back track a tad and you will see on this and the previous page, the story as it transpired. Let me know if you have any advice.
I really would appreciate it.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

You asked for it.

I would not trust cheap autozone castings with internals other than what they came with. Unless they say aisin on them, they're not toyota calipers that were remanufactured. If they were bad out of the box, why didn't you take them back and get another set? To be clear, I use autozone calipers on my cruiser, and don't have an issue with them, but if I did, that s*** would be returned and exchanged immediately.

I read the last few pages, and don't think you're going about this the right way. To summarize the brake issues:

1. You had a caliper "acting up" in early-ish april, so you put new calipers on from autozone.
2. You then had some rear wheel cylinders go bad, after you rebuilt them
3. You got that sorted out by april 21st (not sure what you did there).
4. By Oct 30th you had rebuilt the autozone calipers with toyota pistons, and it was working fine
5. Nov 4th, the front calipers began dragging again, bad enough to make the rotors glow (wow)
6. Nov 19th, you had the calipers apart again, and you note that your rear brake is dragging again as well.
7. Nov 20th, the fronts are still sticking to the point of making the rotors glow (wow again)

So, currently, you have brake calipers up front that won't release all the way, and wheel cylinders out back that won't release all the way. You have rebuilt both the front and rear, with a mash up of toyota and aftermarket parts. Suggestions for past actions:
1. If calipers are sticking out of the box, bring them back to the store and get a new set.
2. Don't rebuild cheap replacement part assemblies with Toyota components when a precise fit is required.
3. Driving around with frozen calipers until your rotors are glowing is always a terrible idea.
4. From the patterns above, it seems like problems continue, or worsen after you open the calipers/wheel cylinders up. I do everything on my trucks, but I don't rebuild brake components. They're too cheap to replace, and too critical to fail.

To fix, I suggest:
1. Swap out the soft lines if you've already bought them.
2. Once swapped, bleed the brakes, then jack up the front end, and try to spin the tire.
3. If the tire does not spin freely, then pry the pads away from the rotor. Verify that the tire now spins freely.
4. Pump the brakes twice or three times
5. Jack the front end up and try to spin each tire
6. If the tire(s) don't spin at this point, let's check wheel bearings
7. Pull the hubs off and repack at least the outer bearings, but prefer both. Check for spindle damage.
8. Reassemble hubs and set preload
9. Check tire spin again - if they don't spin at this point, your calipers are frozen. They must be replaced.

After that:
1. Buy 95 4runner front calipers and pads, as cheap as you want, from wherever. Just the calipers. Get coated ones, or paint the ones you get, because you're in NY. Looks like $25-100ish per caliper on rockauto. Reference:

4Runner Calipers, T100 MC, Rotors and Backing Plate Eliminator install

Had a bad rt. caliper so decided to take the plunge and install 4Runner calipers, new rotors, and the backing plate eliminators I got from Mark Algazy of marksoffroad.net . Purchased Reman Toyota Calipers for '95 4Runner V6 - Part # 47750-35090-84, and 47730-35090-84 (Rh, Lh) New caliper...

forum.ih8mud.com

2. Have your rotors turned, because they're almost certainly warped now that they've been heated up that much.

Assuming your pedal feels normal, aka is returning to the top of the travel after you release your foot, then fluid is coming back to the reservoir and the master is releasing. I've never had lines fail internally and cause a blockage, but I guess it's possible. If that's the case though, then I would expect the pedal to feel abnormal.

 

[boots4]

Disclaimer: I didn't read back through all the pages.

Just throwing this out there, you may have addressed this already. What about wheel bearings? Both sides preloaded the same?

Seems like I was constantly adjusting them probably due to big tires but that all went away after I swapped in a bigger axle.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Disclaimer: I didn't read back through all the pages.

Just throwing this out there, you may have addressed this already. What about wheel bearings? Both sides preloaded the same?

Seems like I was constantly adjusting them probably due to big tires but that all went away after I swapped in a bigger axle.

That's a good point too. Wheel bearings would have been affected by the crazy heat, so it'd be a good thing to check.

Modified my recommendations above.

 

[mongoose2231]

Thanks for the reply. So to sum it all up, the truck sat for more than year waiting for a rear main seal replacement. Final had time to do that. I then wanted to drive truck but sitting unused for more than a year, the calipers must have rusted out causing the issue. I bought new calipers at Autozone but did not drive the truck because i cut up the rear frame to repair it. That took another 6 months. The autozone units were there sitting for 6 months installed on the vehicle. I finished fixing the frame, rebuilt the rear axle, replaced the rear cylinders with new units and put the truck together. When I finally took it out of the garage I noticed the brakes were dragging. Notice, this was 6 month later, the truck just sat with new calipers installed but not driven. I readjusted a rear drum, which was a little tight, and re-rebuilt the calipers again, this time using that special Toyota grease. Every time I took the truck for a quick spin, everything seemed normal but as soon as I extended my drive i would get the dragging. The rotors got to the point of glowing in a matter of a mile or so of driving it back home. I already have an axle rebuild in the mail from Kurt. Wheels spin freely before the drive and everything goes back to normal after it cools. I am 100% sure it's the damn calipers that are faulty. I am going o rebuild those Toyota castings I have and go from there. I just don't want to throw money at aftermarket parts, and mr. T's are too expensive. Every time I drove the truck after every rebuild, it seemed fine but when I attempted to take longer drives, the problem would arise. I guess we shall see shortly.

 

[mongoose2231]

Ok, got home and cleaned the bores of the spares I have, and a bit on the surface to reveal casting numbers and what not. Can someone please tell me if these are original Toyota parts? I will do some research in the mean time.

 

[mongoose2231]

Also close up of what i have on the truck now. The passenger side def looks like a diff unit. The drivers side has more or less the same markings.

 

[OGBeno]

The “Mountains” on the casting indicate Aisin Takoaka which is the casting supplier for Toyota calipers.

 

[mongoose2231]

Yes, thanks for the reply, i just found out that s12-8 casting was supplied for the land cruiser between 1976-1990 or something to that effect.
Thanks again

 

[mongoose2231]

The “Mountains” on the casting indicate Aisin Takoaka which is the casting supplier for Toyota calipers.

Crap, Onur! I didn't recognize your avatar brother. How have you been man? I hope the airplane industry is treating you right. Cheers brother!!

 

[OGBeno]

You need to come up and visit Alex.