You asked for it.
I would not trust cheap autozone castings with internals other than what they came with. Unless they say aisin on them, they're not toyota calipers that were remanufactured. If they were bad out of the box, why didn't you take them back and get another set? To be clear, I use autozone calipers on my cruiser, and don't have an issue with them, but if I did, that s*** would be returned and exchanged immediately.
I read the last few pages, and don't think you're going about this the right way. To summarize the brake issues:
1. You had a caliper "acting up" in early-ish april, so you put new calipers on from autozone.
2. You then had some rear wheel cylinders go bad, after you rebuilt them
3. You got that sorted out by april 21st (not sure what you did there).
4. By Oct 30th you had rebuilt the autozone calipers with toyota pistons, and it was working fine
5. Nov 4th, the front calipers began dragging again, bad enough to make the rotors glow (wow)
6. Nov 19th, you had the calipers apart again, and you note that your rear brake is dragging again as well.
7. Nov 20th, the fronts are still sticking to the point of making the rotors glow (wow again)
So, currently, you have brake calipers up front that won't release all the way, and wheel cylinders out back that won't release all the way. You have rebuilt both the front and rear, with a mash up of toyota and aftermarket parts. Suggestions for past actions:
1. If calipers are sticking out of the box, bring them back to the store and get a new set.
2. Don't rebuild cheap replacement part assemblies with Toyota components when a precise fit is required.
3. Driving around with frozen calipers until your rotors are glowing is always a terrible idea.
4. From the patterns above, it seems like problems continue, or worsen after you open the calipers/wheel cylinders up. I do everything on my trucks, but I don't rebuild brake components. They're too cheap to replace, and too critical to fail.
To fix, I suggest:
1. Swap out the soft lines if you've already bought them.
2. Once swapped, bleed the brakes, then jack up the front end, and try to spin the tire.
3. If the tire does not spin freely, then pry the pads away from the rotor. Verify that the tire now spins freely.
4. Pump the brakes twice or three times
5. Jack the front end up and try to spin each tire
6. If the tire(s) don't spin at this point, let's check wheel bearings
7. Pull the hubs off and repack at least the outer bearings, but prefer both. Check for spindle damage.
8. Reassemble hubs and set preload
9. Check tire spin again - if they don't spin at this point, your calipers are frozen. They must be replaced.
After that:
1. Buy 95 4runner front calipers and pads, as cheap as you want, from wherever. Just the calipers. Get coated ones, or paint the ones you get, because you're in NY. Looks like $25-100ish per caliper on rockauto. Reference:
Had a bad rt. caliper so decided to take the plunge and install 4Runner calipers, new rotors, and the backing plate eliminators I got from Mark Algazy of marksoffroad.net . Purchased Reman Toyota Calipers for '95 4Runner V6 - Part # 47750-35090-84, and 47730-35090-84 (Rh, Lh) New caliper...
forum.ih8mud.com
2. Have your rotors turned, because they're almost certainly warped now that they've been heated up that much.
Assuming your pedal feels normal, aka is returning to the top of the travel after you release your foot, then fluid is coming back to the reservoir and the master is releasing. I've never had lines fail internally and cause a blockage, but I guess it's possible. If that's the case though, then I would expect the pedal to feel abnormal.
You need to come up and visit Alex. 
