Builds Out with the old and in with the new!(turboed 2h!)now no longer turbo, but rebuilt! (4 Viewers)

[Seth S]

It burns better right up to the point that your piston melts.

 

[mongoose2231]

Thats why we have EGT gauges, to monitor temps...

 

[Seth S]

Turbo is really less about burn efficiency and more about cramming more oxygen into the cylinder and therefore more fuel. Leading to more heat and more pressure. The pressure then increases torque. Unfortunately the Land Cruiser heads are less than optimal by todays standards and would take a lot of work to optimize. Better to just bolt on a turbo, run premium gas, and be smart in the amount of boost you choose to run. f

Unfortunately the damage that comes from a turbo is usually in the form of detonation and by the time a gage shows an issue the damage is beyond done. Egt will help monitor one set of parameters but you really need an ignition system capable of reacting to knock. One that can advance and retard so as to optimize power and protect against knock.

 

[mongoose2231]

I guess those of us who turbo our 2h's are reckless, lol. I like it much better , so the turbo stays...

 

[Seth S]

No I’m not dissing the mod. Just suggesting the addition of a smarter ignition system which will allow for more boost and better engine protection. I’ve driven and played with turbo cars for many years and turbos are great. We have bolted turbos on non turbo engines with high compression and then run high boost and had a lot of fun until things came apart.

 

[cors]

No I’m not dissing the mod. Just suggesting the addition of a smarter ignition system which will allow for more boost and better engine protection. I’ve driven and played with turbo cars for many years and turbos are great. We have bolted turbos on non turbo engines with high compression and then run high boost and had a lot of fun until things came apart.

What would you consider product wise an addition knock adjusting unit that can be added to the old lc.?

 

[pistonpete]

 

[mongoose2231]

No I’m not dissing the mod. Just suggesting the addition of a smarter ignition system which will allow for more boost and better engine protection. I’ve driven and played with turbo cars for many years and turbos are great. We have bolted turbos on non turbo engines with high compression and then run high boost and had a lot of fun until things came apart.

Right, I understand what you're saying, and I appreciate the insight. The info you are providing is very valuable and more than welcome. I never owned a turbo car before, but this is an old engine, with no electronics, no knock sensors, not one system that monitors and adjust anything to prevent knock. All that said, I am aware that the engine's longevity is reduced by turbo-ing an engine that wasn't designed for it. I however run only 7 psi and it improved the engine a lot. These 2H engines take a low pressure turbo very well, especially if the pistons have been upgraded with the steel inserts at the ring landings. I have seen people who added a turbo to their 2H in an effort to kill the engine just to motivate them to swap it out for the venerable 12HT, and the damn 2H's refuse to die. @Tapage for instance runs 14psi as far as I remember from his build thread, and he beats the living daylights out of his rig! In retrospect, adding a turbo to your 2H may or may not kill your engine. Mine is going just fine after 2 years and 10k miles.

 

[Tapage]

I did indeed give her ( Tencha ) love and when it was time .. hard and strong ..



and she's still there .!

 

[Seth S]

What would you consider product wise an addition knock adjusting unit that can be added to the old lc.?

I think the least expensive to most expensive options would be:

1. make sure valves are adjusted, ignition is up to snuff and fuel delivery is tuned.
2. Run colder plugs
3. Run high test fuel 93 or 91 depending on USA location
4. Install an intercooler or charge cooler
5. Install the Saab APC system from a 1986-1993 Saab 900 turbo (keep an eye out at junkyards). Vacuum operated solenoid on turbo waste gate which opens and closes based on a knock sensor bolted to the side of the block. in a Saab this usually gets a base boost setting around 5 psi and depending on the control unit might max out around 12 psi. If knock is detected the wastegate is opened and boost dumped.

6. Aftermarket fuel injection system designed for turbocharging. Most expensive and involved option.

Basically 4 ways to stop or reduce knock:

1. Dump the boost
2. Cool the incoming air/fuel charge
3. Dump in more fuel which helps to cool the pistons and combustion chamber
4. Retard the timing.

Little bit of info on APC overview. Possible to setup a LED inside to show when the knock sensor is triggering....guess thats kind of like the 5th option...in that you can take your foot off the gas to help kill knock....but usually by the time you see the light the damage is done.

Also, at 7psi max you are probably fine as you said. Its just the times when you are running a high load on a hot day that you might have issues...towing up a long mountain pass, stuck in a mud hole etc. Its great its held up for 10k miles...Hoping it holds up for another 390k more. colder plugs, high test gas, and an intercooler could be a good simple improvement. FYI the Saab turbos from 1985 to 1993 had a nice compact intercooler that might be a good size to look at. Also the later cars had a cross flow intercooler option that would be a possibility too.



To control the turbocharger, the APC monitors the engine's RPM and inlet manifold pressure via a pressure transducer, and uses these inputs to control a solenoid valve that trims the rate of rise of pressure as well as the maximum pressure by directing boost pressure to the turbocharger's pneumatic wastegate actuator.

To detect knock, a piezoelectric knock sensor (basically a microphone) bolted to the engine block responds to unique frequencies caused by engine knock. The sensor generates a small voltage that is sent to the electronic control unit, which processes the signal to determine if, in fact, knock is occurring. If it is, then the control unit activates a solenoid valve that directs boost pressure to the turbocharger's pneumatically controlled wastegate actuator, which opens the wastegate to bypass exhaust gases from the turbocharger directly to the exhaust pipe, lowering turbo boost pressure until the knock subsides. Knock events that are managed by the APC can be "seen" when the in-dash boost needle "twitches" slightly. The APC unit has a 'knock' output where an LED may be connected. This LED will then light up if knock is detected. The pictured APC gauge has this custom LED fitted at the end of the red scale. Because the knock sensor becomes less accurate at high revolutions, the APC tapers maximum boost pressure after approximately 4,500 RPM.

 

[mongoose2231]

But we are talking about turbocharging our 2H diesels here. Does all the above apply?

 

[Seth S]

Aha! No. For some reason I thought this was a turboed 2F. Hence my worry.

Diesel pretty much run on knock

Carry on

 

[mongoose2231]

LOL

 

[mongoose2231]

It has been a chunk since i have updated my thread in any way. I have reaquired dent, my parts truck, which i got back from Chilcotin's buyer, for free. The truck he bought from me 2.5 years ago sat in a container untouched. I have gone up there in the mountains and surprisingly, got it going in 10 minutes. The carb linkages were stuck. Surprised to see that thing start right up! Back to the subject at hand. I started dismantling dent, so that i can chop and use the substructure wherever needed. My truck is in worse shape then i thought, so dent will be sacrificed to save my rusty trusty. I am even going to swap the chassis. Dent has a great rot free chassis with only surface rust. This will be a slow and steady process, so stay tuned.

 

[mongoose2231]

I have been busy prepping the parts truck, getting it ready to cut into it as needed. Problem is i now have to get started on dismantling my truck. In the interim i have been busy working on a couple of things on this. I know its a bit of topic, but here are a couple pics.

 

[mongoose2231]

I am going to post a couple updates, as threads left un-updated aren't cool.
Based on the lack of activity, some may think I have either been enjoying the truck, either it's been parked, rendered useless by some issue. Well, I have parked the truck last december, (holy crap ,it is more than a year since), with a bad oil leak. I said to myself, well I'll fix it soon. The year went by, and besides a power wash last fall, to find where the oil was leaking from, I have done nothing else to fix it. I was entirely sure that the rear main was leaking, as the oil seemed to seep from there, like a sieve none the less but today, I finally started to take the beast apart. Here are my findings:

 

[mongoose2231]

It looks as though the leak was caused by a badly welded oil return bung. Damn it, I should have known better than to trust some newb welder. Additionally, the hose I used for the turbo oil return was not oil rated, and the oil was seeping through its walls. Another thing is I will finally upgrade the turbo feed line. Mine was rubber with hose clamps amd it did not fare very well. I will be installing a steel braided line with bolt on fittings instead. Looking at the oil pan, it looks like the oil could not have traveled forward as I drove, so the rear main is out of the question, plus it only has about 10k miles sonce it was replaced. I only wish I had done this sooner. If the leak is indeed the return bung, it would have been an easy fix and I could have enjoyed the truck all of last year, instead of using it as garage furniture...some additional pics.

Also, I forgot to mention that when I tried to remove the oil return line from the bung, the bung broke off with very little force. I will be replacing that with a proper piece of pipe and we will be off to the races in no time....

 

[mongoose2231]

 

[mongoose2231]

Getting things ready for re buttoning it all up. A couple fresh coats of paint. The lifter cover could have done with a sanding prior to paint but meh...
Waiting on a gasket from @beno and a couple other fittings and such. I'll have this thing back on the road in no time. I have decided to fix as I go rather than taking it off the road entirely... best approach in my opinion.

I have also adapted a 4an flare to my factory oil turbo feed by means of welding.

 

[mongoose2231]

This morning I woke and went into the garage to make some progress. I re installed the lifter cover and started the engine. Once properly warmed up, I did a valve adjustment. Some of the valves were in spec, some were loose, none were tight. What is with the pentagon shaped nut on the crank pulley?? I used the 4th gear, rock the truck method to align my TDC'c. Worked like a charm, albeit, muscles are needed to move truck in gear. lol
I shall re install turbo this evening
Progress is being made