OTRAM Step by Step Timing Belt Replacement Video Instructions - DIY (Toyota 2UV-FE, 4.7l V8)

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Dear Friends, Here is yet another timing belt installation DIY step by step you can follow. In my case I used Otrams Videos which were very helpful in getting the TB removed and installed back up.

I took the time to get the time stamp from each step of OTRAM's videos so you can click on specific time stamp and jump to that step.

Additionally I tried to document all the Nuts/bolts/screws, screw sizes and torque settings for each components that needs to be taken off.

The full link to the file is below - Toyota 4.7l V8 Timing Belt Replacement Procedure. The link also has some more images that would be valuable in the installation process to understand. I.e. the placement of certain nuts/bolts etc.

Timing Belt Spreadsheet - Please comments and I'll add any additional comments to spreadsheet as needed

I will copy the steps below just so if this file is not accessible then you can at least see the steps.

Let me know what you think.

Thanks to all who have helped via this forum.

Official TB instructions from a 2006 Tundra also attached below (should be very similar to the LC/LX)

P.S. BTW I am not sure if Otram is on these forums or not I see @OTRAMM so hope thats you buddy.
 

Attachments

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TB Removal Instructions

Removing Timing Chain Steps using Otram's channel ALL INSTRUCTIONS are you FACING the ENGINE
REMOVAL Video - Official OTRAM Video is here -
Part List if you need it. -
Toyota 4.7 Liter Timing Belt Replacement - OTRAMM - https://www.otramm.com/47-liter-timing-belt-replacement.html
StepsVideo time linkComments/Notes with Bolt/Nut Type
Taking radiator & Fan out would be advisable but not necessary
- Disconnect the negative terminal of the Battery
11. Remove Fan 4x12mm SERATED nuts (around fan bracket studs) - See video to see technique on how to take it out
Keep the 4 SERATED 12mm nuts from the fan separate from other 12mm nuts
22. Fan Brackets
33. Serpentine Belt Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt Part 1 (updated) - https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=216Draw arrow pointing right (clockwise) on belt first to know how the belt turns, then take 14mm ratchet on tentioner pully and turn left (facing engine) to remove the belt
3a - Remove Fan bracket Pully offToyota 4.7 Timing Belt Part 1 (updated) - https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=282also take off fan bracket pully off as it is on there loose since we took the fan off with the 4x12mm nuts
44. Remove coolant pipe with Hose tubes with attached from water pump to Oil housing/filter Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt Part 1 (updated) - https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=284Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt Part 1 (updated) - https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=309 - 1x10mm akron nut top next to throttle body hose, 1x10mm bolt bottom on fan clutch (bottom right)

watch video on taking the 3x hose clamps off - 1 on water outlet, 1 going to throttle body, one bottom going to oil cooler
55. Thermostat Housing Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt Part 1 (updated) - https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=351- 3x12mm nuts
76. Top Water outlet nuts - Then wiggle/twist it out cause it maybe stuck Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt Part 1 (updated) - https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=367 - 1 x 3in 12mm bolt on top back upper left, 1 x 12mm 1.5in bolt top back upper right
87. Remove Drive belt Idler pulley- 14mm Bolt and cover plate
98. Left Cam plastic coverToyota 4.7 Timing Belt Part 1 (updated) - https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=4001x10mm acorn nut & 3x10mm 1.5in bolts
109. Power steering pump - No need to take it out, just remove 3 bolts and Swing it to the side Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt Part 1 (updated) - https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=4803x14mm 4in bolts
1110. Alternator - Disconnect negative terminal of battery 1st - Slide it off & Swing it to the side as wellToyota 4.7 Timing Belt Part 1 (updated) - https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=5252x 14mm upper and side nut, 1x 14mm 4.5in bolt bottom
1211. Upper left/middle plastic coverToyota 4.7 Timing Belt Part 1 (updated) - https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=591 - 2 x 12mm 4in bolts
1312. Tensioner - slides off studs Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt Part 1 (updated) - https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=6002x12mm nuts (top and midlower left), 1x12mm 4in bolt
1413. unplug Cam Position sensor - Right side and remove rubber grommitToyota 4.7 Timing Belt Part 1 (updated) - https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=635
1514. Right Cam Gear plastic cover with cam position sensor wire fishingToyota 4.7 Timing Belt Part 1 (updated) - https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=6974x12mm 1.5in nuts (already took the acorn nut out with coolant hose pipe step 4 above)
1615. Remove Fan bracket -

Remove AC comp Side bolts in front
- 2x14mm 4in Top and bottom front bolts (see pics)

Loosen back bolt on AC to pivot it enough to remove fan bracket
Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt Part 1 (updated) - https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=710

Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt Part 1 (updated) - https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=726 (Ac bolt locations)

Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt Part 1 (updated) - https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=745 (Back bolt location - DO NOT TAKE IT OUT - Just loosen it)+

Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt Part 1 (updated) - https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=799 (top front bolt location)
2x14mm bolts on front side of ac compressor, LOOSEN only back bolt 1x14mm on ac compressor rear

(for me it was eaiser to take drivers tire off and through that side space using Small/medium Swivel socket remove both the bottom front ac bolt and loosen the back bolt)

Just keep bolts/nuts together on the fan bracket here to track them - TOO many bolts and nuts hear to track, 12mm and 14mm here
1716. - Loosen AC compressorToyota 4.7 Timing Belt Part 1 (updated) - https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=745 - 2 x bolts on ac front (Top & Bottom - Make sure you do not remove the AC bracket bolt which is close to the bottom front bolt) and

-- Only loosen rear bolt 1 x bolt the rear bolt to pivot AC (Come from driver side opening) this is still a PITA but can be done. Use Small/medium Swivel socket

- uplug the ac connector & bend bracket to take it out
1817. HERE YOU ALIGN THE TDC (Top Dead center)Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt Part 1 (updated) - https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=950crankshaft bolt - 22mm socket on to move TDC - This has to be aligned depending on your Year the TDC arror has to be pointed differently

- First rotate it to cranckshaft mark to 0 on the timing cover mark.
- Ensure the marks align with 0 and 2 camshaft mark lines (NOT with T) if not aligned move it another rotation to get the 0 (timing cover & crankshaft) and lines aligned on 2 camshaft gears and camshaft cover
- then for 2000-2001 LC move crankshaft another 50 deg to so crankshaft mark aligns with middle bolt of the red pully- https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=1024
1918. Remove Crankshaft pulleyhttps://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=1068 - Ensure you are still aligned with the Crankshaft mark so your valve and such are aligned

- Use torque gun to take the crank bolt out (check alignment before fulling taking out)

- I used a wd40 or similar oil to spray in the middle where the bolt is of the crank pulley and let it sit for few minutes, Then used short wooden 2x4 and hammer and hit the crank pulley at different angles to get it lose. Keep at it, its not the fastest method. You may have to do this a few times to work.
2019. Remove camshaft timing plastic coverhttps://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=12304x10mm bolts
2120. Remove timing sensor guide plate https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=1267it is concave when removed so ensure it’s the same position with putting it back in
2221. Removing Plastic Trianglehttps://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=1296my car did not have this - Ensure Timing belt is still aligned properly
2322. Remove the Hydraulic timing belt tensionerhttps://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=13322x12mm bolts from the bottom - loosen them evenly
2424. Remove Timing belt offhttps://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=1417
2525. Remove Idler pully #2 (Red one)https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=14371x14mm bolt
2626. Remove Tensioner Idler Pully #1 black - above timing belt tensionerhttps://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=1485 10mm hex - MAKE SURE YOU GET the WASHER and kept it safe
2727. Slide the Timing belt pully offhttps://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=1518
2828. Remove Cam Sensor triggerhttps://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=15621x12mm nut top , 1x12mm long stud bottom lower hold of sensor
2929. Remove Water Pump - need to twist/wiggle it out at times https://youtu.be/4dO8KW1-NQs?t=1549too many bolts/nuts to keep track, so just take it out and keep the nuts and bolts on old water pump. And put while putting in new water pump just transfer bolt/nuts from old to new pump
 
TB Installation Instructions -


ALL INSTRUCTIONS are you FACING the ENGINE
How to install timing belt back on Toyota 4.7l engine 2UV-FE 2UV FE
INSTALL VIDEO reference - Using Otrams video reference -
StepsVideo time linkComments/Notes with Bolt/Nut Type
1Slide Crank Pully in keyway
2Clean Water Pump Area with scraper and green scuff pad (scotch bright pads)Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt (updated) Part 3 - https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=331Easier to clean Waterpump area now - Slightly different order form the OTRAMs video..
3Install Water Pump Gasket Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt (updated) Part 3 - https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=375Easier to clean Waterpump area now - Slightly different order form the OTRAMs video..
4Install water pump pipe o-ring (put a little bit of silicone to make WP seat properly)Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt (updated) Part 3 - https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=380Easier to clean Waterpump area now - Slightly different order form the OTRAMs video..
55. Install Water pumphttps://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=420 One nut and 2 stud bolts = Tq 12ft, all other aBolts Tq 15ft - Transfer nut/bolds from old water pump to new water pump
66. Install Idler Pully #2 (Red one)Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt (updated) Part 3 - https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=584 Tq 25ft -1 x 14mm
77. Install Tentioner Pully #1 (Black) with washerToyota 4.7 Timing Belt (updated) Part 3 - https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=242Tq 25ft 1 x 10mm hex (MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL THE WASHER behind the pully)
88. Install Plastic triangleToyota 4.7 Timing Belt (updated) Part 3 - https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=625If you have one. My car didn’t have one.
99. Install Timing beltToyota 4.7 Timing Belt (updated) Part 3 - https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=655
1010. Double check Camshaft marks - Crank shaft timing marks againToyota 4.7 Timing Belt (updated) Part 3 - https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=880
1111. Install Hydraulic Timing tensionerToyota 4.7 Timing Belt (updated) Part 3 - https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=892 - tq 19ft - 2 x 12mm (evenly install these bolt up)
1212. Ensure timing belt is installed correctly with the correct Cam and Crank marksToyota 4.7 Timing Belt (updated) Part 3 - https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=982make sure your L-R Cams gear lines are aligned with timing belt signs L-CAM (Drivers side) and R-Cam (Passenger side) on the timping belt.

These don’t have to line up with valve cover cam lines yet. As long as the Timing belt L-R-Cam lines are lined up with L-R Cam gear lines we are good at this time
1313. Pull the tensioner Pin out of timing tensionerToyota 4.7 Timing Belt (updated) Part 3 - https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=1035
1414. Put timing keyway Gear disk (Timing way key gear) - MAKE SURE Concave side outToyota 4.7 Timing Belt (updated) Part 3 - https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=1051
1515. Install Crankshaft plastic timing cover onToyota 4.7 Timing Belt (updated) Part 3 - https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=1075 - 4 x 10mm Bolts - Tq - Good and tight :)
1616. Install crankshaft timing pully (dampner pully) line it up with the KeywayToyota 4.7 Timing Belt (updated) Part 3 - https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=1115 - 1x22mm - Tq 181 ft (one hundred eighty one ft)
1717. Double check timing is good againToyota 4.7 Timing Belt (updated) Part 3 - https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=1135

- https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=1160
Here move your camshaft pully mark to 0 on the timing cover. The L-R Cam Gears Lines, will align up with the Valve Cover Lines (similar to when you were aligning the Timing belt to take it off - NOT the T mark)
1818. Install Serpentine belt tensioner (upper left)Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt (updated) Part 3 - https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=1262 - Tq 12ft - 2x12mm nut on top and side (non serated )
- 1x12mm long bolt (~3in) on bottom
1919. Install Alternator bolts backToyota 4.7 Timing Belt (updated) Part 3 - https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=1348 - Tq 29ft - 1x14mm nut top
1x14mm 2.5in bolt bottom
2020. Install Power Steering pumpToyota 4.7 Timing Belt (updated) Part 3 - https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=1401 - Tq 13ft - 3x14mm 3in bolts
2121. Install Fan pulley bracket - Make sure wiring is tucked back properly - Make sure it sits without rocking Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt (updated) Part 3 - https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=1497- Tq 12ft for 12mm nut (top)/ bolt (right above 14 nut (right most) - Tq 24ft for 14mm nut(right most side)/bolt (lowest side)
22Put AC bracket back on the fan bracketToyota 4.7 Timing Belt (updated) Part 3 - https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=1663
2322. AC compressor bolts - put long 2x14mm bolts from side (top and bottom) onto the fan bracket

- Likely need a swivel socket wrench to tighten front bottom bolt.
- Tighten back ac bolt

Tq = 36ft for all 3 bolts
https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=1660 and put in ac bolts back up - Tq 36ft - 2x14mm long bolts from the AC comp side that go into the fan bracket side (if your fan bracket is not sitting properly you will not be able to align these 2 side bolts properly - Ask me how I know :) )

- 2x14mm long bolts on side of AC compressor - 1 on top side and 1 on front bottom) See where OTRAM is putting in these 2 bolts slowly and rewatch.

(Top & Bottom - Make sure you do not remove the AC bracket bolt which is close to the bottom front bolt) and -- 1 x bolt tighten the rear bolt that was loosen to pivot]
24 - Snap AC Compressor wiring back on
2523. Install Cam postion sensorhttps://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=1750 - Tq German Good and Tight
2624. Install Right side Cam belt cover - Fish Cam sensor and Gromet through the coverhttps://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=1840- Tq 16in lbs - 4x 10mm bolts
2725. Install Water pump plastic coverhttps://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=1955 - Tq 12ft - 2 x 12 mm 4in Bolts
2826. Install Left Cam belt plastic cover - Tq 16in - 3x 12mm bolts, 1 acorn 12mm nut
2927. Clean Water outlet Inlet and on water outlet part with razor, wire brush of old FIPG, degrease the area both side
3028. Install Thermo water outlet - Put Outlet O-Ring on little bit of Silicon Grease

- Clean surface of Water outlet (old FIPG clean with green pad/razer blade wire brush the surface) put new FIPG gasket maker on
https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=2094- Tq 15ft - 1x 12mm 3in on left top bolt, 1 12mm 1.5in bolt right side
3129. Install water outlet pipe
https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=2366 - Tq German good and tight. 1x 10mm acorn nut on top - 1 10mm bolt bottom

- Put the 3 hose clamps back to original position - 3x hose clamps off - 1 on water outlet, 1 going to throttle body, 1 bottom going to oil cooler
3230. Install top idler pullyhttps://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=2451 - Tq 27ft - 1x 14mm nuts
3331. Install Thermostat with Thermostat Seal - Ensure if you have Toyota Thermo that the Giggle valve on the 12 O'Clock positionhttps://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=2511- Tq 12ft - 3 x 12mm bolts
3432. Install Fan pully cover https://youtu.be/GiOgACPh68k?t=2600Otram did not install on video
3533. Install Serpentine Belt (see diagram on your hood sticker or to the side)Otram did not install on video
3634. Install Fan - 4x12mm serated nuts on similar to how you took them out
3735. Install Radiator if you took it out
38Put in new Coolant
- Reconnect the negative terminal of the Battery before starting
 
Good job, thanks. This should be linked into some of the other timing belt threads so that people can find it.
 
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Very nice!
I added this to the FAQ, don't change the thread name in case it throws the link off.
If somebody wants to add some time estimates for the whole thing and/or main steps, that would be great!
 
Thanks @e9999 I'll make sure I'll keep the topic the same...

I didn't add time estimates b/c time is really dependent to the person's experience. This took me 4 days to do at a steady pace.. If I have to do it again I would be able to do it in say 2 days. But I am sure someone more experienced may be able to do it in one day.. If in doubt slow and steady wins the race..I say.
 
Thank you so much!
 
Deleted. posted on wrong chat
 
A note on step 7 of the install: you should seal the tensioner pulley pivot bolt threads.; if you don't you get an oil leak. FSM specifies adhesive including blue loctite 242. The updated video(engine out of truck) doesn't have this step but the old video(part 2) did.
 
A note on step 7 of the install: you should seal the tensioner pulley pivot bolt threads.; if you don't you get an oil leak. FSM specifies adhesive including blue loctite 242. The updated video(engine out of truck) doesn't have this step but the old video(part 2) did.
This is a step I think most people skip (myself included in the past) that causes a very slow oil leak, that often gets diagnosed as a front crank seal leak or oil pump leak.

You can also buy a new bolt that has sealant on it already I believe. Seems like a very odd design to have the hole threaded through the oil pump, but I assume it was a packaging thing.
 
Dear Friends, Here is yet another timing belt installation DIY step by step you can follow. In my case I used Otrams Videos which were very helpful in getting the TB removed and installed back up.

I took the time to get the time stamp from each step of OTRAM's videos so you can click on specific time stamp and jump to that step.

Additionally I tried to document all the Nuts/bolts/screws, screw sizes and torque settings for each components that needs to be taken off.

The full link to the file is below - Toyota 4.7l V8 Timing Belt Replacement Procedure. The link also has some more images that would be valuable in the installation process to understand. I.e. the placement of certain nuts/bolts etc.

Timing Belt Spreadsheet - Please comments and I'll add any additional comments to spreadsheet as needed

I will copy the steps below just so if this file is not accessible then you can at least see the steps.

Let me know what you think.

Thanks to all who have helped via this forum.

Official TB instructions from a 2006 Tundra also attached below (should be very similar to the LC/LX)

P.S. BTW I am not sure if Otram is on these forums or not I see @OTRAMM so hope thats you buddy.
Hi @BnvS Thank for sharing, awesome.

I do have a LC100 built 11/1999 and have a question for you.

You are listing also the TDC. For the LC 1998-2002 it's 50deg BTDC (BEFORE) - see pic

In another thread I found the information it is 50deg ATDC (AFTER) - see pic

May you or anyone here verify what's the correct TDC setting for my Land Cruiser respectively for the year 1999 please.

1737470761213.png


1737470963536.png
 
This is exactly why you need to use the service manual for your year model and not rely on internet posts for specific repair advice; from the 1999 Land Cruiser service manual (which is in the Resources forum for free download):
1737475490576.png
 
In the 98-05 USA 4.7L which are the non VVTi. The 50 degree, BTDC (befor) or ATDC (after), we can ignore this procedure. It's so valves don't hit piston tops. We've found they don't, even with belt off we can spin crank or cams in non VVTi engine.

We can just set on marks and remove belt. But so often when we do. The cam(s) are sitting, with valve spring tension of some valves on some cam lobes. The slightest jar, and cam(s) move on their own from valve spring pressure. No big deal in the NON VVti.

I check timing, to make sure belt correctly place on (Engine "Timed"). Before I put on lower timing cover. With hard marks. Which is crank sprocket notch to oil pump dimple. This is same as zero on plastic cover to line on harmonic balancer (large lower pulley). Plastic cover, isn't as accurate, as may have shifted a tad. It also nice to make sure timed, before getting cover on.
013.JPG


Timing Belt 06LC 194K 050.JPG
004.JPG


We match cam sprocket to straight line, while crank sprocket on the mark. This is done after spinning crank CW 720 degrees. Note: Belt marks, will no long line up.
015.JPG

014.JPG
 
VVti 4.7L (2006-07) we do set timing belt differently. During disassembly and assembly. This is where the while stub on lower cover and "T" for cam marks, come into play. Also we've a different mark on oil pump we use for hard mark during belt install.

This is 50 degrees ATDC. The VVTi engine is an interference engine. So we must take added precautions. In these VVti, I do not spin crank or cams with belt off.

White stub on lower cover
055.JPG

The while stub on cover, corresponds to oil pump mark (a square quartered off) when crankshaft key pointing to it
IMG_3111.JPEG

The crankshaft key, also is corresponds to sprocket V notch.
IMG_3314.JPEG

Which is also what the second set of double lines on new belt is for.
IMG_3366.JPEG


Which we can use, to keep cams from turning by valve spring tension in non VVTi also. Then, crank marks align with square on oil pump (while stub of lower cover)

Here we see VVT cams marks to the "T's" A must when service VVTi timing belts.
IMG_3367.JPEG

IMG_3368.JPEG


IMG_3366c.JPEG

But I still check timing to the "I" after spinning crank 720 degrees CW when new belt on, in VVTI or non. They're the easiest to read and most accurate.
IMG_3370.JPEG

IMG_3371.JPEG
IMG_3137.JPEG
 
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I do not remove or loosen AC compressor rear bolt. No need. Just bend the bracket blocking in fan bracket, out of the way.
I get to lower front AC bolt with long extension w/14mm universal socket. Turn wheels, to the left helps. Slight lift of vehicle also helps.

3.JPEG


Torque to 36ft-lbf
AC bolt (3).JPG


Slip socket and extension, PS between boot and PS hard line.
2.JPEG
 
I almost never reuse old fan bracket (FB). I like new OEM (Toyota Aisin) fan brackets, the best

Any oil seen coming from FB seal, sound from or play in bearing, replace FB.
Metal fillings in dust. Very bad bearings.
IMG_2854.JPEG

Signs of oil on seal, replace it.
IMG_0690.JPEG

002.JPG

001.JPG
 
Most block have pitting under water pump gasket, in aging 4.7L. I create a patch, to fill pits.
 
Notice yellow paint on every bolt/nut. My most used tools during and assemble: Torque wrench and a paint stick.

Torque and paint. No paint, get out the torque wrench again:

IMG_3372.JPEG



BTW: The 2005 FSM has a wrong torque spec of 53ft-lbf, for the vane pump. Correct is 13ft-lbf.
 

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