Other than a rusted pos, what is this? (1 Viewer)

[rickysa]

Thumbed through the manual and didn't really see anything that stood out, so I figured y'all would know right off. On the drivers side of the rear diff:

 

[mjeckell]

Brake proportioning valve

 

[rickysa]

Less than 30 seconds....love this site

 

[flintknapper]

LSPV

Load Sensing Proportioning Valve

Controls how much braking is applied (depending on the load on the rear of the vehicle).

I'd be much surprised if that one is working correctly.

 

[Malleus]

Actually, that's the adjuster for the LSPV. Once it's set, it never moves, unless you modify the vehicle, after which you have to move it. It will continue to provide the input the valve needs from it, whether it's rusted or not.

This is a fairly common appearance. I replaced mine last fall; it looked pretty much the same (my valve was leaking, so I replaced the entire assembly). The adjusters come from the supplier already set at the distance specified in the FSM.

 

[rickysa]

Actually, that's the adjuster for the LSPV. Once it's set, it never moves, unless you modify the vehicle, after which you have to move it. It will continue to provide the input the valve needs from it, whether it's rusted or not.

Thanks, I've just finished replacing rotors/calipers/brakes and it's time to bleed the system...having seen that the LSPV requires bleeding I was confused as to what it was...now I noz!

I am adding an OME 2.5" kit and plan on an ARB rear bumper, so maybe some adjustment in the future will be needed...

 

[Malleus]

Thanks, I've just finished replacing rotors/calipers/brakes and it's time to bleed the system...having seen that the LSPV requires bleeding I was confused as to what it was...now I noz!

I am adding an OME 2.5" kit and plan on an ARB rear bumper, so maybe some adjustment in the future will be needed...

The extra weight shouldn't be a problem, as it's within the design load capacity. The lift however, is another matter, and should be followed with a LSPV adjustment. (Comment to be followed by a litany of posts on why you should remove the LSPV, which I won't get into). Take a look at the procedure for replacing the LSPV in the FSM; the adjustment/qualification is in there.

 

[rickysa]

Take a look at the procedure for replacing the LSPV in the FSM; the adjustment/qualification is in there.

Yep, brought it with me to work when I posted the pics so I could do some more research!

eta: I have to disconnect it to allow the rear axle to drop far enough to place the DS spring of the new lift...should be interesting to see just how frozen it is.

 

[Malleus]

I would disconnect it at the valve, not the axle. That way you'll know if the valve needs to be replaced. You'll likely not get the other end loose. When I did this, I took it to a Town & Country in Charlotte to have the balance verified. The technician there told me they don't try to unbolt them; they cut them off. Since they're replacing them, it makes the most sense.

Based on the look of your photo, I'd bet you need to do the same to adjust the balance. It's not an expensive part (even cheaper with ONSC membership; just saying...)
(Does that get me a discount John?)

 

[rickysa]

(even cheaper with ONSC membership; just saying...)

Hey, I joined the second I saw ONSC existed!! Still haven't heard anything back tho'

 

[flintknapper]

Thanks, I've just finished replacing rotors/calipers/brakes and it's time to bleed the system...having seen that the LSPV requires bleeding I was confused as to what it was...now I noz!

Yes, the valve will need to be bled. There is a bleeder screw on it for this purpose. IMO the LSPV is one of the trouble spots when bleeding your brakes, it can be difficult sometimes to get the air out of it.

I am adding an OME 2.5" kit and plan on an ARB rear bumper, so maybe some adjustment in the future will be needed...

You'll want to readjust it after the lift. When you disconnect the arm from the valve to the adjuster (if your LSPV isn't frozen) you will see how it operates. Where I live....we don't have rust issues, but the valve will develop a leak over time. Had to replace mine for just that reason.

 

[Rifleman]

I've got to say when i see photos like those, with all that rust, it makes me happy my truck spent it's whole life in the desert. I'll happily
deal with sun rotted interior parts any day of the week. Compared to dealing with bolts that have been so rusted that they no longer have any flats left on them. To those mud members who live, and wrench in the rust belt, i take my hat off to you, because you are truly a tough bread!

 

[Malleus]

Hey, I joined the second I saw ONSC existed!! Still haven't heard anything back tho'

Sometimes it takes a couple of weeks. Keep an eye on the clubhouse forum.

 

[baldilocks]

Holy boat anchors batman! IH8RUST!

 

[flintknapper]

Holy boat anchors batman! IH8RUST!

I know. I can't believe what some of these guys have to deal with. I feel sorry for them, I really do.


You guys in the 'Rust Belt', my hat is off to you.........