Orphan 4runner adopted

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I need to get the amp meter and oil pressure gauge cluster, I'd say. Did I mention this beast has no brakes? One of the wheel cylinders seems to have leaked it out and the pedal goes to the floor without any resistance! The parking brake doesn't work either.
 
No you did not? And yeah that sounds just like it.. Dont know how far into the system you plan to go but as far as brake upgrades/direct replacments go for these.

V6 IFS calipers (found on 86-95 runners/pickups) they have two large pistons as opposed to one large, one small found on the 4cly models.

FJ 60/80 front rotors or IFS vented rotors will be required for the caliper swap. Better rotors than stock too.

V6 dual diaphram brake booster and V6 master cylinder. (larger bore size, 1" as opposed to 5/6") if you upgrade the brakes without the master cly the pedal will just go down to the floor before gaining preasure

10" drums found on all 86-95 trucks/runners (yours are 8")

FJ-60 wheel cylinders, 1" bore as opposed to 7/8" stock.

LSPV delete, removing the Load Sensing Proportioning Valve and installing a manual valve sold by summit racing or other to make sure the fronts lock up BEFORE the rears.

And theres always the option of rear disc brake swap, but if DD that entails finding an alternative E-brake. Such as a transfercase E-brake sold by FROF.

So theres just a few options :D
 
I would really like disc in the back because of ease of maintenance and better braking. Can I keep the stock booster in that case? I saw that LCE had some and I don't expect a straight bolt on unless you are well versed in that too. And yea I did go there. In the long run it will keep me from bleeding the brakes twice! Given the idea that this model runner weighs more than the usual mini truck I figured it probably needs a better brake system too...
 
Yes, if you decide to go disc in the rear the stock booster will be fine. But just keep in mind, like i said with a rear disc swap you will not be able to retain the stock E-brake setup. So you will need to come up with or find an alternative if you plan on it being a street drivin vehicle for your father. LCE and TG have a decent kit (the LCE one IS the TG if im not miskaken).

But yeah 85 is great for both EFI and factory SFA, but brakes is not where that year shines for the minis. If you can find a 2nd gen 4runner (90-95) in a junk yard, then you should be able to get the majority of the brake upgrades from it (assuming its all still there).

I am actually in the process of rebuilding a set of V6 calipers off of a 95 4runner right now. You will be suprised at how well it can stop in comparison to the stock setup. Btw might wanna go through and check all the brake lines for bends, cracks, leaks ect. While you under there.
 
Nice find. We have (had) that same interior but have now changed most out for SR5 stuff. You might take a look at the build thread in my sig line. I would change the fuel filter and it wouldn't hurt to drop the gas tank and rinse it out. The first time you use gas with ethanol you will plug the filter - 100% guaranteed unless it's already been running on 10% ethanol.
 
I'll check out those lines soon, now that I have the tires off. Turns out the motor is in pretty good shape after removing the water pump. The biggest problem came when I opened the valve cover, only to find what looks like root beer float poured over the valve train. I'm just gonna clean it off with diesel (dads idea), then press on. It's still not too late to turn back! Either way I was thinking of removing the oil pan and cleaning it really well because it probably looks worse. Did I mention it never had a thermostat?
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fj487 said:
No that's still there, I got to pull off all of the wiring today and labeled it... I found some random wires which I believe they might go to the sr5 model. The cylinder is in the bottom right and the charcoal canister is in the background. Since then it has been removed from its bracket and is laying on the fender...
Click to expand...

The vacuum line with the "cylinder", the cylinder is a filter, generally found attached to the dash pot on the throttle body.
 
fj487 said:
I'll check out those lines soon, now that I have the tires off. Turns out the motor is in pretty good shape after removing the water pump. The biggest problem came when I opened the valve cover, only to find what looks like root beer float poured over the valve train. I'm just gonna clean it off with diesel (dads idea), then press on. It's still not too late to turn back! Either way I was thinking of removing the oil pan and cleaning it really well because it probably looks worse. Did I mention it never had a thermostat?
Click to expand...

Once you've removed the head to replace the head gasket I would suggest replacing the timing chain and inspecting the timing chain cover for wear. Do a search on this forum for 22RE timing chain removal and replacement. Sorry but unless you remove the engine or drop the front axel you won't be able to drop the oil pan.
 
Thanks flash02 for the pointers. I'm glad I know that it's not gonna be that easy to get to that oil pan. When I was working under it today I noticed that the axle bottomed out on the oil pan, talk about abuse! Should I be worried?
 
I think you can remove the pan easily, just get some really tall stands and put then under the frame, then remove the front wheels so the axle can droop down, there should be plenty of room to get the pan out.
 
Looks like head gasket shake! :P mmmmh. And about the oil pan removal, TG, All pro or davez offroad sell these lift springs just for that problem!! :D
 
Don't get ideas in my head. I'm still scrounging for loose change in the truck! As for dropping the axle or lifting the truck, that's exactly what I had in mind. I figure it will be the last thing I do after rebuilding it. Here is what it looked like inside. Should I clean the pistons since they look like crap?
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I wont try to put good ideas in your head.. :) just some good friendly advise. As for cleaning the pistons? I would, unfortunatly i wouldnt know how to go about doing so though. I have always dealt with new pistons and such during a teardown/rebuild. Well i take that back i have used valve grinding compound once. Worked well and cleaned up great!
 
I always use plain water and a brass wire brush. The goal is to get all the black stuff off, but without scratching the tops of the pistons or the cylinder walls.

GENTLY scrape the top of the block with a razor to get the HG residue off, then a final polish with a die grinder, with a 3M Scothbrite biscuit.

And get that crappy Fram oil filter off of there!
 
Oil filter check, hg residue check. I leak tested the valves and found #2 ex. leaking really bad. Where can I find a single valve, the auto parts store??
 
You might try to PM Sam (aka Lowe Toyota) he might could get you a single valve, but it will be OEM.

Does anyone know if the valves are the same thru the years? I have a head sitting in the garage that I would sell you a valve off of if you wanted, heck I would sell you all of them if you want, cheap. PM me and we can work it out, that is all assuming that they are the same. The head I have is off of an 88 22RE.

Gonna have to let somebody smarter than me tell us if they will work for you.
 
Well, like I said, that was the only one that was leaking and because I don't want go overboard on rebuilding since I'm cheap (literally). I don't want to go all out. Well, to be honest, I have a confession. My wife isn't too happy I got this old dog and even worse that I'm spending on it. So I have to be a minimalist and if I make up too many lies about the things I need I wont eventually be able to get some cool last minute things. Like a cool system or locker/ springs for Christmas. So bottom line is I'm trying to behave when it comes to impulse buying... I hope I don't sound like a pansy.
 
Not even a little bit. I am super lucky in that my :princess: generally supports and even encourages this general behavior. She actually found my 4runner and the FJ80 that we own. But I know I am a general exception to the norm.

PM me your zip and I will see what I can do on the valves if you are interested.
 
Havnt been on in a while sorry lol, but IIRC the valves are the same in all 22R-E engines, especialy if comparing an 85 to an 88. Changes were made in 88.5 and 92 but nothing to do with the head.. Somone please correct me if i am mistaken, i have the most experience with the later model 22R-E. btw hows the "rebuild" coming overall?
 
looks like you've got a project there....

i know you are a ways off from this, but if you have water /oil sluge milkshake in the radiator, don't forget to flush the heater core and other associated lines rather well....dont want to put it all back together and pump oily crud back into the clean coolant system...

keep going....you are on the right track...
 
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