Optima D31 into stock 60 battery location...any actual experience?

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John McVicker

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Yellow or blue 31’s, same size. Have you done it and does it fit w/o major modification? 60 stock battery location.

According to Optima’s numbers, I ‘think’ it will fit...but if so, it will be tight, tight, tight. Both length & height.

Starting price for these are expensive so I’d like to gather as much info as possible before I leap. Your experience will be helpful.
Thanks!


EDIT: This is not about the quality, issues etc of the Optima brand...only if it will fit or not.
 
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I don't have experience with those Optimas, but I did install batteries larger than the stock Group 27 size many years ago in my old 60 (dual battery trays) and after they wore out I swore I'd never go bigger than Group 27 again.
 
Ok, good. Thanks. I think I’m gonna go with it but I tell ya, if it does fit it’s going to be major league tight. One side will be up against the immoveabl radiator support and the other side right against the immoveable passenger fender. And @Godwin if you do run across that post that would be good.

If anyone else can verify on way or the other if an Optima 31 will fit I’d appreciate the info.
 
I found this


Post was from 2006 and I ran the Yellow Top until it died. I think I had to pick up a new tie down from the stainless steel battery tray guy. I had the battery in a stainless steel battery tray, not a stock tray.

 
Wow! Good info @Godwin

All those guys say it’s a tight fit...but it WILL fit. Thanks much!
 
I run dual Interstate Series 31’s in my 60. I trimmed the outboard edge of the factory tray to let
the battery sit level. I have spacers in front of the batteries to push the body of the battery as
far back in the tray as it will go. Mine are starting batteries so they only have a single stud
center body position.
FYI I attempted a couple years ago to get an Oddysey 31 to fit, and the negative stud made
a dent in the bottom of the hood.
The Interstate seems to have a shorter stud. FYI, keep negative terminals outboard, in the event
they strike the hood shouldn’t technically cause a problem.
I also cut a small square in the bottom of the hood directly above the negative stud. There already
exists a small factory hole there, I just enlarged it. I have good factory hold downs, of course.
They don’t move and I’m confident would not move in event of roll over.
Last bit of protection, I installed a piece of cab tire rubber from 8/3 wire over the top of the
negative stud with electrical tape as my final protection. Been on for 30,000 + kms to the
Arctic and back.
 
Thanks @cruiserpilot looking at the dimensions on Optima’s web site it and then trying to plot it out before I actually have the 31 in the vehicle, the height of the battery is going to be very close. It appears that it will be ok, but I might need to do some of your solutions.

May also need to jury rig something with my tie down. I’ve got something in mind but won’t know until I actually have the battery. It’s supposed to arrive day after tomorrow.
 
i run a X2 battery ( northstar).
Had to take the terminals and swap them for low profile bolts and trim the battery tray, but it fits without any contact to the hood.....
I run a G 27F on the drivers side, but the same could be done to there....
20180331_184508.jpg
 
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I should mention that I learned the Series 31 batteries will have very close width and length
dimensions but heights seem to vary considerably.
Fancy SS tie downs! Nice. Mine are far more primitive. I did whole bunch of work
on the engine without taking any pics of the batteries in place. I’m home today, so
I’ll get a pic of the set up and post it.
BTW Manuchao is that silicone elbow on the air inlet 3”? Just cut the stock top and
clamped it on?
 
I've got a Duracell G31 on the driver's side as a house battery. Length and width are snug, but not really a problem. Height is what you want to pay attention to. It was just a small fire . . . . .
 
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Thanks @joebattle1 that looks like what I’m replacing...group 34/78. Mucho smaller than the group 31. It’s been a great battery for me.
 
Got distracted, pics of my set up tomorrow.
Edit: overview pic. Detailed next post. If you look closely you can see the battery model on the sticker
EC597219-C7B9-4E16-A1CB-919BDB61DE0F.jpeg
 
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Here are pics. Sun shining low this morning. The hole cut in the hood on the left is identical
on the right. This works for me. FYI: the little red connector box I got at Bass Pro in the marine
electrical section. Had it for a while before I hooked it up. Nice solid construction and good fit.
I have the black negative side too, but don’t need it. Does make it nice for the fusible link
connections.
AA18F9DD-5F7C-47E2-A099-6A75F113C926.jpeg
499B5C45-381D-411B-98BC-13526AAC6AE8.jpeg


A5C65CF8-DAD0-420D-800C-0E0B553CFF27.jpeg


9B41C09D-1241-4BBB-8FF8-70D982E28FB4.jpeg


3E108F74-40AF-4DBB-B1F1-1F8198F135B0.jpeg
 
Thanks @cruiserpilot , good install. Got my Optima M31 Blue Top in today, will post up some pictures in a day or 2.

On mine this was a very tight fit both length and height. Had to modify in both areas. Made a hole in bottom of the hood in the same spot you did. Also had to remove & flatten the lip on the bottom of the battery tray. Otherwise the battery would actually be touching the radiator support. Also needed to make some mods to the stock battery hold down in order to use the stock set up. Not any extra room anywhere but everything seems very solid.

I also installed the battery backasswards so to speak. I now have the positive post on the Passenger side of the truck. Did this because my cable from the positive post would not reach down to the starter from where Optima placed theIr post on this huge battery, and I didn’t have enough red cable laying around to make a new one that long. So I just turned the battery around. But I did have some black 2g welding cable laying around, so I made a new battery negative cable.

May sound hokie...but it actually turned out very good & very solid. Never spent so much time installing a friggin battery. Pictures hopefully tomorrow.
 
I get you, I even spent the large sum to get a proper lug crimper. Mine was full meal.
2/0 battery cable from stem to stern, 50’ in total for both winches and to feed the
isolator switch. Mine is pretty redneck, but connections are tight and cable is all
good. Learned a lot. Neither winch has power until I select it. I can isolate any system
and keep everything else running.
It sure amazed me how of all the battery sizes, the series 31 have the most variations.
 
Cruiserpilot - Why the tape on the negative terminals? The frame/body/hood is grounded anyway so contact with the hood won't cause a problem there, right?

Mine is oriented the other way so that my positive terminal is outboard. I had to do a little remodeliing to make it clear, and I still keep a heavy piece of rubber on top of the battery.
 
Cruiserpilot - Why the tape on the negative terminals? The frame/body/hood is grounded anyway so contact with the hood won't cause a problem there, right?

Mine is oriented the other way so that my positive terminal is outboard. I had to do a little remodeliing to make it clear, and I still keep a heavy piece of rubber on top of the battery.
Fear and paranoia, nothing to do with common sense. I tend to isolated trips solo,
just like to feel one less thing that can trip me up.
To be honest, I should cap the positive. Ever put a tool down while not looking, thinking
that flat battery makes a good temporary bench and arced across the terminals?
 

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