Opinions on most reliable LC Diesel engines.

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12HT = feels awesome in a 60! Parts are getting harder to track down but if you can find a HJ61 that you like it is still a very valid option.
1HZ= legendary reliability and 'simple' if you are doing some of the maintenance yourself. Not rocket ships on the interstate but abundant.
1HDT= takes everything the 1HZ does well and makes it more modern and drivable at freeway speeds. They will only become more available and parts support is fairly robust at this point. They ain't cheap though!

There is a tremendous difference between the 'livability' of the various series. 60 series are comfortable but dated, 70's feel agricultural in the best ways but are not that comfortable (although a well appointed 77 is about as close to a modern 60 interior). 80's are the closest thing to a modern vehicle interior we can get for the time being. Better family rig platform for most.

You live close to some of the best resources in the States to keep any of these engines going. Go with a reputable vendor and you'll get a keeper no doubt.
 
What engine is in your rig? 1HZ or 13bt?

A 1HZ , its my 3rd. I've also had a 12HT and a 3F petrol engine. The 13BT only came in the SWB and MWB 7* series and our LWB have always been 6 cyl or the current v8 diesel and the odd 5 cyl PZ
 
More like the "Supposedly good idea for about 5 years then leaking and leaving metal shavings inside the injection pump Assembly"

Yep. This is exactly what happens when that thing goes bad. The local shop blamed my pump going bad on that device, however when I shipped it back to Japan as a core exchange for another pump...the folks there blamed the damage on "home brewed" biodiesel or kerosene (their words).

I guess I will never know what exactly caused my pump to go bad but I wish I knew so I don't repeat the issue as the current owner.
 
Yep. This is exactly what happens when that thing goes bad. The local shop blamed my pump going bad on that device, however when I shipped it back to Japan as a core exchange for another pump...the folks there blamed the damage on "home brewed" biodiesel or kerosene (their words).

I guess I will never know what exactly caused my pump to go bad but I wish I knew so I don't repeat the issue as the current owner.


Just a suggestion, add a bottle of 2-cycle oil to the fuel tank. Keeps the pump nice and happy with our low sulfur diesel.

Cheers
 
Thanks. Seems to be the way to go as it has been suggested to me before.
 
Just a suggestion, add a bottle of 2-cycle oil to the fuel tank. Keeps the pump nice and happy with our low sulfur diesel.

Cheers

Diesel distillers say they have been adding replacement lubricants lost during sulphur removal for over 20 years now. I have not seen any evidence injector pumps are dying. If there was poof their fuel was killing IPs, the law suits would be flying thick and fast.
There was some anecdotal evidence in the early days of low sulphur fuel that fuel pumps were being harmed but that has long since vanished.
 
Diesel distillers say they have been adding replacement lubricants lost during sulphur removal for over 20 years now. I have not seen any evidence injector pumps are dying. If there was poof their fuel was killing IPs, the law suits would be flying thick and fast.
There was some anecdotal evidence in the early days of low sulphur fuel that fuel pumps were being harmed but that has long since vanished.


Well, many 70's or other diesel Cruisers imported to the USA end up with a leaky injection pump in their first year or less here. The general thought is our diesel is ultra low sulfur.

My truck seems to love the 2-cycle oil.

For the record I have had diesel Nissan Patrols and never added anything to the fuel and never had leaky IPs.

Cheers
 
Well, many 70's or other diesel Cruisers imported to the USA end up with a leaky injection pump in their first year or less here. The general thought is our diesel is ultra low sulfur.

That's because they are 25+ years old and in any case, diesel injector pumps have always leaked.
Adding lubricants wouldn't stop a leak, its a different problem.
 
Leaks can be fixed. I wasn’t talking about leaks. It is when internals go kaboom.
 
It is not to stop a leak but prevent it.

There are tons of threads on this.

Cheers

And a lot of its ill founded. Viton seals have been in use by all the worlds injector pump manufacturers since 1997 when they agreed to make them standard, presumably to stop them from leaking.
Stop/prevent can be the same thing.
And I'm still wondering how 2 stroke oil can stop/prevent it from leaking? I always thought it was for protection against a perceived lack of lubricants ,metal on metal.
I never said all pumps leak but most do over their life time. And I've seen Nissan pumps leak profusely. My pump is 23 years old and not leaking, but I will not say it will never leak.
 
And a lot of its ill founded. Viton seals have been in use by all the worlds injector pump manufacturers since 1997 when they agreed to make them standard, presumably to stop them from leaking.
Stop/prevent can be the same thing.
And I'm still wondering how 2 stroke oil can stop/prevent it from leaking? I always thought it was for protection against a perceived lack of lubricants ,metal on metal.
I never said all pumps leak but most do over their life time. And I've seen Nissan pumps leak profusely. My pump is 23 years old and not leaking, but I will not say it will never leak.


I didn't say I disagree with anything you are saying. I didn't mention the Nissan for brand argueing, simply that I had never put any fuel additives in it.

Pretty sure my pump has never been cracked open and it is 28yrs old. It doesn't leak.

Some of the "gurus" on here swear by the 2-cycle oil. I am not one of them, but I have been trying it in my truck the last three tanks.

Cheers
 
My main focus is reliability. This will be a truck that I will drive quite a bit to different places around the country and I would rather not have to worry about repeatedly repairing a foreign engine that I know nothing about. I don’t mind working on my trucks, I just don’t want it to be a regular thing. Also, what are the weak points of the engines. My next concern is fuel economy. What motors get the best? Last thing is power. My least big concern as I will not be pulling anything ever, but still a point on interest. Again, reliability is my first focus.

Based upon your criteria.......you want a 0mile 1Fz. . Not a used diesel anything in the U.S. (for your criteria of reliability -serviceability- economy.)

For the same money as an imported low mile 801hdt.......you can have Robbie A. Build you a 4.6l 1fz with 0 miles on it installed!!! and have an extra $5k for gas/ or 1700gallons of gas/or first 24,000miles travelled still less $than imported 80.

Low mile 1hdt 80 will easily be $20k and still have 80-100k miles on it

Vs.

Robbie built 4.6 $12k installed.- 0 miles. Hg done.
Blown engine 80- $3-4k.
$5k gas money which pays your first 24,000miles of travels.
 
Im not a fan of RHD vehicles on LHD roads. Have you driven RHD before? Would be a good idea before getting too far on importing your own. There are a lot of 80 series in other parts of the US that are not rusted. Why not find a nice 80 somewhere else and have a diesel conversion done?

Ive driven, worked on, rebuilt,and used diesels in conversions (3B,13BT,12HT,1HZ,1HD-t) My daily driver is a non turbo BJ75(3B) and ive been driving it for 20 years on basic maintenance. Mine has a rotary pump and I had to have it rebuilt last year (after 17 years of nothing done to it at all). Mine developed a minor leak around the throttle shaft that goes through the top plate. Nothing else wrong with the pump besides standard metal on metal wear on the replaceable thrust surfaces. I wouldnt let a rotary pump lead my decision on what engine to go with.

I dont baby it. I have driven it at 75 all day on many occasions (with a 4 speed). It does fine around town here, there are a few hills on the local highways. It does struggle in the mountains though.

They all have a similar reliability potential. My personal preference would be 1HZ (with turbo), or 1HD-T, mainly because these engines have a much more modern feel. They are smooth running, somewhat quiet, and have more RPM available in the operating range.


Good luck
 
Agreed with LynchMob. I've owned a 2B, 2B-T, 3B, 13BT, and now have two HZs. I turboed both HZs but don't push the boost or fuel very hard and love them to death. Easy to work on, can run on worse fuel than the direct injected 1HD-T, and they still make them so I have at least 20 more years of part availability. I understand people love the 1HD-T and variants(FT, FTE) but the cost and finicky nature of their fuel needs were the final factors for me. I think if you go with a rig with an HZ or HDT you will be happy. One thing, as others have said, don't go for a diesel to save money... Unless you get your engines for incredible deals, you will not save a lot. I went for the diesel, and the HZ specifially, to eventually run WVO, which the HDT does not like.
 
All the reasoning you’ve provided so far for importing a diesel cruiser is very practical, but there is nothing practical about it. You will spend more money. Parts will be harder to find and take longer to get. Fuel economy will not pay for these higher costs. Old reliable trucks are still old trucks; things will break.

its OK to want to own a diesel cruiser stateside. They are unmistakably fun and cool and unique - but they are not practical.

So take off the rose tinted glasses and buy a low mile FZJ80 ... or join the madness with the rest of us, but know what you’re getting into :flipoff2:
 
All the reasoning you’ve provided so far for importing a diesel cruiser is very practical, but there is nothing practical about it. You will spend more money. Parts will be harder to find and take longer to get. Fuel economy will not pay for these higher costs. Old reliable trucks are still old trucks; things will break.

its OK to want to own a diesel cruiser stateside. They are unmistakably fun and cool and unique - but they are not practical.

So take off the rose tinted glasses and buy a low mile FZJ80 ... or join the madness with the rest of us, but know what you’re getting into :flipoff2:

Think that pretty much sums up how I feel about all of this. Might be a good idea to get a US cruiser and get some experience first considering I’ve never owned one, then when I got some more change in the piggy bank, revisit this.
 
We've had our 1991 HDJ81 (1HD-T) for 1.5 years and we love it as our daily driver and only vehicle. We bought if from @SteveJackson at Land Cruiser's Direct and all the baseline, preventative maintenance was already done (BEBs, timing belt, all fluids changed, etc., etc.)...it has a been a pleasure to own and we've been able to do most of the preventative maintenance work on it ourselves (replacing injectors, oil/filter change, etc.). Steve makes sure you get what you pay for and I have no doubt our HDJ81 will be going strong when it's 30 to 40 years old :) He does a great job of supporting you after the sale too (which can be priceless for these older vehicles when the shop 'down the road' looks at you funny when you roll up with a Toyota Diesel).

Is it the most practical and economical vehicle for a daily driver/only vehicle...probably not. But it's an investment and it pays off in different ways. As long as you do the preventative maintenance, use these 'MUD forums for DIY help, and take care of it...it will take care of you.

Each person and each situation is different, but as long as you are considering your options and looking at the situation from different angles, you'll make the right decision for you!
 
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I don't have the experience of others, but I did buy a 1990 HDJ81 RHD last month and it is my daily driver. I adjusted to the RHD within the first to days, but it took a week or so to be comfortable with it. I've driven it every day and had it on an 80 mile interstate trip at 70-75mph and have loved driving it. Maintenance items are still available for it, though you aren't going to be able to run down Autozone to pick them up on a whim, so you do have to plan in advance for parts.
 
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