Oops! brake issue - punched through plate (1 Viewer)

[fred]

Made the msitake of NOT driving my '82 FJ60 often enough.
Discovered that the ebrake wasn't releasing properly, and seemed to be causing the drums to drag.

Decided that it might be time to look at the drumbrakes. Been driving the rig for almost 40K miles, and it's coming upon 210K total. No idea when the last time the drums were serviced.

Had limited success trying to loosen the adjusters, so removing the drums was not a simple "lift them off".

The PO had decided that the wheel would do a fine job of keeping the drum on, so had NOT installed the "keeper screw" that attaches the drum to the hub. AND he had NOT lined up the holes for it (this turned out to be BAD!).

So I went and found a couple of 8 mm x 50 mm 1.25 bolts, and worked them into the two threaded bolt holes, and slowly cranked those in and moved the drum out and away, until, with them bottomed out, I could remove the drum from the passenger side. Removed the brake springs and shoes, and found the shoes to have about 6 mm or more of material (FSM says they should be between 1.5 to 6.5 MM thick, so they seem to be near the top of their expected range).
Drum is not scored.

However, the bellcrank is totally frozen in it's housing. After pulling the first one, I decided to check it's mate, and went to pull the drum from the passenger side.

Insert the 8MM bolts to push the drum off. Start carefully cranking, alternating back and forth.

Weird - one side goes in REALLY easily, barely any resistance. And it goes in ALL THE WAY, but doesn't appear to have pushed the drum out much. Other side is brutal, noisy, and some serious cranking is involved. Some judicious hammering around the sides of the drum get the drum straightened out and I can pop it off.

Pop the works out, and pull the bellcrank housing, which is also completely frozen.

Plan is to clean up bellcrank housing, after pessing out the pins, and cleaning up the crank and the interior.
May remove the steel liner and replace with nylon washers and hi-temp grease.
But here is the OOPS part. The bolt that was SOOO easy to put in? That bottomed out handily?

Turns out the hub plate with the studs in it had a bigger hole there (for the keeper screw), so the bolt I used to try and push the drum off ended up going against the MUCH flimsier backing plate fro the hub.
So flimsy that I both deformed it and PUNCHED a bolt sized hole through it.

This was done with a regular short handled 3/8 drive ratchet.

So, my question is, am I going to be able to get away with slapping some hi-temp sealant in between the surfaces, where I punched out a bit of the gasket material, and deforming the backing plate back against the wheel hub plate?
(Probably using the new hole and a large washer to draw the two sides together).
Seen zero evidence of any grease leaking out of this, but it's cold.

Here are some photos:

 

[60Works]

It's just a dust cover and has no effect on the oil seal. Best practice would be to pull the axle and replace the punctured cover and paper gasket. That will lead to finding pitting on the bearing surface of the axle, which will need to be replaced. Then, since you replaced one side's bearing you'll want to do the other. Then, when you're in the pumpkin to release the C clips you'll notice play in the spiders and ring gears.

This will turn into pulling the diff and, since you're replacing the spiders anyway, might as well get an ARB locker. And, because you have to replace the ring and pinion, it's the perfect opportunity to rehear. But you then have to do the front diff too. That turns into doing the knuckles, king and wheel bearings, brakes, brake lines, rotors, and hubs.

When you pull the drive shaft to get to the diffs, you notice the U joints are loose, so you tear into them only to find the transfer output flanges are weeping. When you pull those you find shavings in the oil. Since you're that far in, it's a good time to upgrade to a 5 speed and replace the clutch and throw out bearing. Well the rear main seal is now exposed, better get it too.

Or...

Bend the dust shield back so it doesn't rub on anything and put the brakes back together with new Wagner bell cranks from your LAPS. And pretend nothing happened with the axle.

 

[unfortunately]

It's just a dust cover and has no effect on the oil seal. Best practice would be to pull the axle and replace the punctured cover and paper gasket. That will lead to finding pitting on the bearing surface of the axle, which will need to be replaced. Then, since you replaced one side's bearing you'll want to do the other. Then, when you're in the pumpkin to release the C clips you'll notice play in the spiders and ring gears.

This will turn into pulling the diff and, since you're replacing the spiders anyway, might as well get an ARB locker. And, because you have to replace the ring and pinion, it's the perfect opportunity to rehear. But you then have to do the front diff too. That turns into doing the knuckles, king and wheel bearings, brakes, brake lines, rotors, and hubs.

When you pull the drive shaft to get to the doffs, you notice the U joints are loose, so you tear into them only to find the transfer output flanges are weeping. When you pull those you find shavings in the oil. Since you're that far in, it's a good time to upgrade to a 5 speed and replace the clutch and throw out bearing. Well the rear main seal is now exposed, better get it too.

Or...

Bend the dust shield night so it doesn't rub on anything and put the brakes back together with new Wagner bell cranks from your LAPS. And pretend nothing happened with the axle.

Is there an award for best reply ever? This is definitely a candidate.

 

[georgebj60]

Gets my vote.

 

[lechnito]

 

[fred]

It's just a dust cover and has no effect on the oil seal. Best practice would be to pull the axle and replace the punctured cover and paper gasket. That will lead to finding pitting on the bearing surface of the axle, which will need to be replaced. Then, since you replaced one side's bearing you'll want to do the other. Then, when you're in the pumpkin to release the C clips you'll notice play in the spiders and ring gears.

This will turn into pulling the diff and, since you're replacing the spiders anyway, might as well get an ARB locker. And, because you have to replace the ring and pinion, it's the perfect opportunity to rehear. But you then have to do the front diff too. That turns into doing the knuckles, king and wheel bearings, brakes, brake lines, rotors, and hubs.

When you pull the drive shaft to get to the doffs, you notice the U joints are loose, so you tear into them only to find the transfer output flanges are weeping. When you pull those you find shavings in the oil. Since you're that far in, it's a good time to upgrade to a 5 speed and replace the clutch and throw out bearing. Well the rear main seal is now exposed, better get it too.

Or...

Bend the dust shield night so it doesn't rub on anything and put the brakes back together with new Wagner bell cranks from your LAPS. And pretend nothing happened with the axle.

Fabulous answer!
While that would be my inclination, not gonna happen.
When I started to debug the brakes issue, I was concerned for the regular drums and shoes (which both appear fine), and figured, while I have all this off, I should pull the hubs and repack and/or replace the wheel bearings.
But, since I haven't seen any issues, I probably will leave it all alone. As tempting as it is.

However, I took the bell crank assemblies to a pals shop, and after attempts with machinists hammers, with very large bench vises, a 12 ton hydraulic press, and air hammer tools, I was completely unsuccessful at budging the pins, and the veteran's are still completely frozen. Weird. Had the rig for seven years with zero brake issues, but this cropped up after a period of a couple months where the Cruiser didn't get driven.

In the interest of getting my Cruiser rolling again, I am going to put these frozen ones aside, for future rebuilding, and get new bell crank assemblies.
Haven't heard of Wagner's.
Anyone have advice on good, available replacements?

 

[fred]

Went with the full kit of Toyota parts from CruiserParts.
Hopefully that will arrive soon.

And with the rig up on stands, I'll have to see what else I can poke at back there.