Oooops, I, did it again.... (1 Viewer)

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Nice. So whats the plan? thats a decent shape bj42. You putting in another 3b I assume, not doing an F/3spd swap? Seems easier and more valuable end product to make this green BJ42 a diesel again :meh:.

A 3spd (J30) bell housing was used up to '74 and should be very inexpensive to buy.
 
Frame stripped, wire wheeled, Superclean and hot water pressure washed...

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Oh, and for anyone looking for a quicker way to clean along the frame seams.... (Don't tell me no one has done this before)

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Nice. So whats the plan? thats a decent shape bj42. You putting in another 3b I assume, not doing an F/3spd swap? Seems easier and more valuable end product to make this green BJ42 a diesel again :meh:.

A 3spd (J30) bell housing was used up to '74 and should be very inexpensive to buy.

Actually, the previous owner did all the work when his 3B died, so it's all set up for the 2F/3spd - much easier to just put that back in. Had he not - yes, a 3B would go back in.
 
On an unrelated note, I see that e30 M3 rear clip. What are your plans for it?
That pic was at the "purchase location". The guy I bought the cruisers from is moving on to that project next...
 
Well I'll say this - it's black!

Chassis saver by @magnetman that I bought about two years ago for my OTHER 40, went on great! Took me about 2-1/2 hours and probably used a little over a quart out of my gallon - which is good because that means I can to more frames! I scooped paint out of the gallon with cream cheese containers, then painted from them - seemed to work well as the paint was just starting to thicken a little by the time I got to the bottom of the container, and meant that the lid was only off the gallon for about 20 seconds.... I used two, and two brushes. I will say that this stuff absolutely stinks, which thankfully I had no idea at all until I was done - my respirator works well! I would not recommend using this without a respirator, even outside! (I was inside, since it was snowing today)

There are a few areas that I didn't get to, like the suspension mounting points, and obviously I didn't do the springs or axles. I plan on doing these and the spots I missed in the spring - I'll put the truck on the hoist pull the suspension, clean it properly in the mounting areas then paint the frame from under with it up in the air...

Here it is...
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Oh and for anyone wanting more "real time" photos, you can follow me on Instagram @atIOIYIOI
 
Well while waiting for some bits to arrive, and since we had a warmer day (+8C) I thought it would be good to try to wash the majority of the nasty off.

Lowered the body back onto the frame and rolled it outside. Hot water pressure wash, then had soaped and scrubbed, then hot water pressure wash rinse. Much better!!!

Before washing, roof shows it the most, but the whole thing was filthy.

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1/2 Pressure washed, wow!
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Soaped, scrubbed, pressure washed again to rinse...

Roof still has a long way to go, even though it looks pretty clean in these pics.
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And I got the tire carrier to swing open (have been soaking it with PB Blaster for a week), now I can open both rear doors to start cleaning inside.

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Got my bellhousing - hopefully I can get it cleaned up and painted tomorrow, then the driveline can go back together.
 
Well, got the bellhousing and a few other parts degreased and pressure washed this afternoon, then painted this evening. A lot more surface area than you would think - took almost as long to paint these as the frame! (Also cleaned and painted one wheel from my 80, swapping/painting them one at a time)

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Continuation... Setting up to install the bellhousing, flywheel and clutch. Figured I should probably clean the flywheel and pressure plate faces up just a little, and order and new clutch while its all apart...

Yowza.

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This is what came off:
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And threw a first bunch of hardware into the cleaner...

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Question - about to bolt the flywheel on and I wasn't the one who took it apart, are there supposed to be washers, lock washers, both, or nothing between the bolt and flywheel?

Not listed in the FSM, and can't tell in the FSM pic...

Thanks!
 
First batch of hardware is through all the cleaning stages!

FYI, step one is in the pic above with some Superclean de greaser, in the cleaner for a few hours. I've put the whole batch through that. (About 8 separate loads) Comes out looking like this:
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Step two after rinsing is back in to the same deal but with rust remover liquid... Comes out like this after a few hours.

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Then back into the cleaner (dry this time) with the corn cob media for 48 hours. Side by side comparison below, left side has been de-rusted, right side polished.

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Stuff on the left in the pic above is now in for its 48 hour polish...

Still have a whole tub to go!

I'd love to plate all these parts when I'm done but man it seems like a lot of fiddly work... Any suggestions for an easy but effective coating?
 
You are making progress!! I bought a bolt kit from one of the forum members that covered a lot of the hardware. I used Klean strip paint remover on a lot of stuff that had overspray. That stuff worked on plastic, rubber, metal, etc and didnt remove the factory finish on the bolts. It was my lifesaver. I also sent a whole batch of stuff to a plater. See my build thread in my sig for pictures and details. keep it up!!
 
That’s pretty amazing how well the bolts cleaned up. Personally I just pull nuts and bolts from the inside of newer Toyota’s when I go to the salvage yard for a part. Usually I come away with about 50 nuts and bolts and the guys at the counter could care less about charging me for them.
 
That’s pretty amazing how well the bolts cleaned up. Personally I just pull nuts and bolts from the inside of newer Toyota’s when I go to the salvage yard for a part. Usually I come away with about 50 nuts and bolts and the guys at the counter could care less about charging me for them.

I have a bunch of bolts that I've done exactly that - I've had 3 BJ60's scrapped at my place, and I stripped all the hardware I could from them. Things like the drive shaft bolts though, usually either stayed with the driveline, or were already gone. The lot I am going through right now is everything I have saved for the past few years, plus everything that the guy I bought these trucks saved for the past 20 years!

Round two should be out of the polish stage tonight, then it's back to de-rusting batches that are still at phase 1!

As I get them out of each stage I get a better view of them and can pick out some that are not worth saving, but so far it's very few (usually due to damaged threads or heads)

Clutch fork and alignment tool arrived today - hopefully a little more progress this weekend!
 
Ok, question time...

1) I'm overly confused as to why my 1F gas engine has an "HJ" style clutch and not an "FJ" style clutch (according to the FSM) - but things do seem to fit, and match what is on SOR's website. That said, the exploded diagram doesn't show these parts, but they are shown in the photo, and I do seem to have them. What are they and where do they go? (Would have been simple had I been the one who took this apart, I might remember!!)

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2) - possibly related(?) does the throw out bearing face really press directly on the 3 bolt heads of the 3 clutch arms? Seems to me that there should be some sort of plate that ties these all together - like is shown in the "BJ" style clutch...

Perhaps @mel lowe who provided me the bellhousing, @bossman28 who sent me the clutch fork, @wardharris who must tear these apart all the time, or @woody (who I assume at this point has somehow managed to upload the entire contents of ih8mud to his pre-frontal cortex) or maybe @beno who likely has the part numbers and FSM diagrams all committed to memory, sequentially, by model and year - could shed some light for a poor isolated kanuck who has never before seen the innards which he is attempting to piece back together while freezing his ass off in a poorly heated snow covered workshop?

;)
 
The items you have circled in red go between the flywheel bolt heads and the flywheel, like washers. After the flywheel bolts are torqued to spec the edges of these sheet metal pieces are bent up against the flats of the bolt heads. Doing this will keep the bolts from loosening up and backing out.

Don
 

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