- Thread starter
- #21
The rear are about 4.5"
OME Light/Medium 2.5" Lift and driveline vibrations (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter AutaviaFJ40
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Pretty much same set up as I use, same drive shaft orientation same shackle and 2.5” lift kit. However I just went out and took a picture of an old crusty FJ40 drive shaft and the yokes are oriented 90 degrees....and a thumb through of my Haynes shows our installations are correct. Maybe just try a 90 degree shift...and see. Or maybe a 180...maybe the balance weights got reversed????
- Thread starter
- #23
are the nipples both facing the same direction on either end or opposite directions...or does that even matter?
front drive shaft they are both facing the same direction, but rear they are opposite
front drive shaft they are both facing the same direction, but rear they are opposite
I don’t think it matters other than the yoke orientation is correct. Try rotating 90 or 180 and see. Your later model drive shaft is quite a bit shorter than mine. Maybe the lift and rear shackle combo changed the pinion angel enough to cause a misalignment. Maybe....also a 1 or 2 degree shim under the rear axle..rotate the pinion ‘down’ a bit.
Those are pretty cheap things to try...just labor. Every inch of shackle is a degree of axle rotation...when you lift the rear...rotates the pinion up.
Those are pretty cheap things to try...just labor. Every inch of shackle is a degree of axle rotation...when you lift the rear...rotates the pinion up.
That’s backwards. Should work ok, but the slide part might suck water inside.
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- #26
As I read the FSM this is correct orientation, but I think either direction works.
You are right! I just installed mine backwards.
But that’s how the front one is, slide is closer the axle.
The slide and seal go toward the transfer case....front and rear. I think years ago it was popular to swap ends if you were driving submerged. However, the fat end of the drive shaf has a drain hole for just such and occasion....again another shot of my old crusty spare.
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Those angles are way too off IMO. It looks like the shims are in backwards. The flanges need to be within a couple degrees to each other. The rear pinyon needs to be pointing upward and transfer case needs to point down. The front doesn’t need shims for drive angles but to keep the castor correct for steering. I had my pinyon angle incorrect and it rattled the bolts loose inside the case and blew a hole in that case. I’ll take a pic later of my setup and it is vibration free and smooth at all speeds. Spector has a diagram in there shim section if I remember correctly that shows proper shim position.
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Make sure the shim in the front has the thick wedge to the front.
it’s not there to point the diff at the Tcase, it’s there to get your caster back from the longer shackle
it’s not there to point the diff at the Tcase, it’s there to get your caster back from the longer shackle
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- #34
Are you referring to mine? I only have the shims in rear and the wedge is higher at rear.
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Take that shim out. It’s not needed
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- #36
thats where I started and the vibrations were worse. Are you saying remove them from rear and put in front instead?
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Drive shaft angle has been mentioned but what about transfer case flange and third member flange?
The flanges should have the same angle, opposite direction but same, to minimize vibrations. If they are different then vibration is the most likely result.
Drawing and additional info here.
The flanges should have the same angle, opposite direction but same, to minimize vibrations. If they are different then vibration is the most likely result.
Drawing and additional info here.
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- #38
Merry Christmas All
If I measure flange to flange the top is 22 3/4" and the bottom is 22 1/2"
measuring with a tape measure so not precise.
based on what I read here, the top should be about 1/8" shorter...so how do I accomplish this?
As I read this, I'm 4 degrees off, but I failed geometry...did my shim over correct?
If I measure flange to flange the top is 22 3/4" and the bottom is 22 1/2"
measuring with a tape measure so not precise.
based on what I read here, the top should be about 1/8" shorter...so how do I accomplish this?
As I read this, I'm 4 degrees off, but I failed geometry
...did my shim over correct?
Last edited:
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I never use them in the rear of any of my vehicles. I just use shims for caster on the front.
I thought you started with 2* then went to 4*
I would try it without them.
I thought you started with 2* then went to 4*
I would try it without them.
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- #40
I started with 2* and it reduced vibrations, but its still there at 30mph and over 50mph.
So went to 4* which caused the noise in front end described in post 1 but all the vibrations went away.
Went back to 2* and that noise is now gone....but back to vibrations from 28-34mph and over 50mph.
