OME Dakar install: this look right to you?

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that is crazy! those rears have some serious arch to them. I cant think its anything besides the spring packs that would cause it. Looking at the rears on yours, they have the same # of leafs mine do, but i have a overload spring(for the medium)

this may help to give you an idea of how it should sit.

here are some old(2002-2004) pic of my FJ60, showing some combo's, my OME springs were all pre-Dakar. No load in the rear

it never had any real rake to it before or after.

stock


with OME medium/medium, no bumper or winch


OME but I made the front meduims into heavies with the OME add a leaf, and added ARB and 10K Warn at the same time
 
Looks great. I'm jealous! Exactly what I wanted. Maybe a tiny rake to make up for when I weld up my homebrew rear bumper with spare tire swingout and Jerry cans. Gotta fix the big Dan-Mig welder first. Wire speed control crapped out again. Gonna throw out the factory circuit board ($300) and install an $18 speed controller board from ebay when it gets here from Shenzen China or wherever. Then order me a sheet of .125" steel and go to cuttin' an' weldin' an' drillin'. But first I need to get this suspension glitch ironed out.
 
that is crazy! those rears have some serious arch to them. I cant think its anything besides the spring packs that would cause it. Looking at the rears on yours, they have the same # of leafs mine do, but i have a overload spring(for the medium)

this may help to give you an idea of how it should sit.

here are some old(2002-2004) pic of my FJ60, showing some combo's, my OME springs were all pre-Dakar. No load in the rear

it never had any real rake to it before or after.


no fair comparing pre Dakar to post Dakar ....that's like Yugos to Land Cruisers
 
Looks great. I'm jealous! Exactly what I wanted. Maybe a tiny rake to make up for when I weld up my homebrew rear bumper with spare tire swingout and Jerry cans. Gotta fix the big Dan-Mig welder first. Wire speed control crapped out again. Gonna throw out the factory circuit board ($300) and install an $18 speed controller board from ebay when it gets here from Shenzen China or wherever. Then order me a sheet of .125" steel and go to cuttin' an' weldin' an' drillin'. But first I need to get this suspension glitch ironed out.

Better make that 1/4" , you'll need some weight
 
FWIW, I have CS005s front and rear in mine and I have a slight rake, but it evens out when there's 40 gallons of gas in it and crap in the cargo ....
 
Could the binding of the driveshaft splines (too long or too short) cause the springs to arch more?
 
If anyone is interested, I went by Man-a-fre over the weekend and saw a brand new, old stock pair of
Australian made OME rear 60 springs ( heavies ). He never got around to trying to sell them off.
He said he'd sell them. You'd have to ask for Al. He's the only one that knows about them. They are heavies so they can be converted to mediums or lights
 
Not to be Captain Obvious here, but sumthin' ain't right.

Looking at the OP's first pics his rear shackles are beyond vertical, tipping toward the inversion side. Just looked at my full OME setup, not even close to that shackle angle.

That's gotta be the wrong spring. Take more detailed photos and post up.

Measure your new springs eye to eye and maybe we can compare lengths(just not in a locker room sort of way :eek:)
My results were more like landpimps, btw.
 
I have the heavy/heavy OME springs, both A version on the rear and not even close to what is pictured...for sure something is wrong.
 
to me the front springs are not right. From all of the ome springs on 60s that I have seen the shackle angle is more strait up and down.
 
Right springs on front and back?... For sure need better pics showing front and rear springs plus mount points etc... I'm sure Kurt will get it solved.
 
We just installed the same setup (Purchased from Kurt @ Cruiser Outfitters) on our 60 and it looks just the same as the original poster here. Big time stinkbug. We measured about 5" lift in the rear and 2.5-3" in the front. I'm subscribing to see what happens.


-Greg
 
to me the front springs are not right. From all of the ome springs on 60s that I have seen the shackle angle is more strait up and down.

Shackles should never be straight up, doesn't allow for any droop and provides a s***ty ride.

IMO they should be at 45 and flatten when they hit the bumpstop to prevent inversion. This will also allow the spring/axle/shock to fully cycle.
 
Rear shackle angle looks vertical or possibly negative (toward invert).... not good

Bad batch of springs?
 
what happens if with the weight on the axles/tires, the shackle bolts were loosened up at the frame and spring ends and then a ratchet strap(a couple of em) was attached to the frame at the bumper and then at the ubolt and you tried to pull the axle back into position? My old maf 4+ safaris were over arched when I put them on; the shackles were inverted- when I put it on the ground, and they didn't settle in. I had to pull the axle back with the shackle bolts loosened to get any kind of shackle angle...if the suspension is in full droop when the shackle bolts are torqued, then they won't swing back when the truck is set down unless there is already positive shackle angle. What is the clearance at the drive shaft slip yoke?
 
The shackles swing easily. The springs are in the right place, they are NOT mixed up. The front is fine, got the advertised 2" lift there and it looks gtg to me, and Kurt as well. ARB/OME has the pics and we are waiting to hear from them.

I'm not taking any more pictures unless Kurt or ARB requests them. Thanks for looking and thanks for everyone's input on these.

Jack the axle back with a ratchet strap? Uh, no. The shackles are greased and swing easily. I'd use a monkey on a stick for that anyway, but it ain't gonna do squat.
 
okay...btw, is your driveline stabbing the back of your tcase?(fully compressed?) I'll bet it is...
 
okay...btw, is your driveline stabbing the back of your tcase?(fully compressed?) I'll bet it is...

The 60's are kind of an anomaly. The rear driveshaft is most compressed at droop. Opposite of most trucks. With a stock 60 the easiest position to remove the rear driveshaft is with full weight on the springs. Nearly impossible at droop
 
Shackles should never be straight up, doesn't allow for any droop and provides a s***ty ride.

IMO they should be at 45 and flatten when they hit the bumpstop to prevent inversion. This will also allow the spring/axle/shock to fully cycle.

I have seen about ten 60s with the ome lift and ome shackles and they were all close to to being vertically strait up and down including mine. The angle improves once the springs settle in but they are still closer to vertical than 45*.
 

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